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Mountaineering timeline

Mountaineering timeline
Credits: myswitzerland.com

The History of Mountaineering has a lot great achievements. Here is some important and iconic ascents. Not all :-), but in future will be more.

In text you will see a lot of links to polish website drytooling.com.pl. It is my another website, about winter climbing. There is lot of climbing stuff :-) and off course you have google translate. Enjoy!

 

1760, 21 Dec - Alpinism is "invented". Genevan naturalist Horace Bénédict de Saussure offered a large reward to anyone who could find the way up Mont Blanc

1786, 8 Aug - The first ascent of Mont Blanc. Jaques Balmat & Michel Piccard conquerd

1809 - First female ascent of Mont Blanc (Marie Paradis).

1821 - Chamonix guides company established . First guides’ association in the world.

1857 - The Alpine Club was founded in London due to it's popularity amongst Britains "elite".

1864 - The start of the Golden Age of Climbing . An English designer Edward Whymper and Michel Croz a trainee guide, accomplished three 1st ascents in one week; The Col de Triolet, L'Aiguille de Treletete and the L'Aiguille d'Argentiere. He made a further half dozen first ascents in Europe and the Americas over the following 5 years.

1865, 14 Jul - First ascent on Matterhorn (Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, Peter Taugwalder, Peter Taugwalder (son)

1888 - First ascent on Ushba (John Garford Cockin, Ulrich Almer)

1892 - Himalaya Exploration . Conway of Allington explored the Karakorum range Himalayas.

1897, 14 Jan - First ascent on Aconcagua (Matthias Zurbriggen)

1931, 31 Jul-1 Aug – First ascent on north face of Matterhorn (Franz Schmid, Toni Schmid).

1935 - First ascent on north face of Grandes Jorasses (Meier/Peters)

1938, 24 Jul - First ascent on north face of Eiger (Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek, Ludwig Vörg, Anderl Heckmair)

1950, 3 Jun - First ascent on Annapurna (Maurice Herzog, Louise Lachenal). That was first ascent on eight-thousander

1950 - First ascent on north face of Eiger in one day (18 hours. Leo Forstenlechner and Erich Wascak).

1953, 29 May – First ascent on Mount Everest (Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay).

1953, 3 Jul - First ascent on Nanga Parbat. Hermann Buhl. Solo and without bottled oxygen.

1954, 31 Jul - First ascent on K2 (Achille Compagnoni, Lino Lacedelli).

1957, 9 Jun - First ascent on Broad Peak. (Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller)

1961, 6-12 Mar - First winter ascent on north face of Eiger (Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mannhardt, Walter Almberger, Toni Hiebeler).

1962 – First winter ascent on north face of Matterhorn.

1965, 18-22 Feb - Walter Bonatti send new route on north face of Matterhorn (solo in winter).

1966, 17 Dec - First ascent on Mount Vinson (Barry Corbet, John Evans, Bill Long and Pete Schoening)

1974 -First - unquestioned - ascent on Cerro Torre (Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, Pino Negri).

1974 - Time record on north face of Eiger (10 hours, Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler)

1976 - New route on north face Grandes Jorasses, Colton-MacIntyre (VI 6, A1, 90°, 1150 m). Alex MacIntyre, Nick Colton use two ice axes, and front point crampons. This technique was very fast.

1977 - First ascent on Baintha Brakk (other name "Ogre) Chris Bonington and Doug Scott). When they descent from peak, Doug has accident. He broke both legs, but he don't give up. Descent was epic.

1977 - First ascent on Trango Towers.

1978, 8 May – First ascent on Mount Everest without bottled oxygen (Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler). Two years later Messner returned to climb Everest completely alone and without oxygen.

1978 - First winter ascent on north face of Matterhorn. (Anna CzerwińskaWanda Rutkiewicz, Krystyna Palmowska, Irena Kęsa).

1979 - British ascent on Kangchenjunga (Dough Scott, Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman, Georges Bettembourg). Alpine style, new route. Earlier no one think about that style in high mountains.

1980, 17 Feb – First winter ascent on Mount Everest, by polish national expedition (Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki).

1984 - First ascent on eight-thousander in one day (Krzysztof Wielicki, 21,5 hours base-peak-base).

1984, 17 Jul – Traverse of massif Broad Peak (Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojtek Kurtyka. Alpine style without bottled oxygen.

1985 - First ascent on west face of Gasherbrum IV (Wojtek Kurtyka, Robert Schauer). One of the best alpine ascent in high mountains.

1986 – Reinhold Messner complete all 14 eight-thousanders ascents.

1986, 23 Jun - Firs female ascent on K2 (Wanda Rutkiewicz, also first polish climber on K2)

1986 - Tragic year on K2, on 40 climbers died 13.

1987 – Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber to accomplish all 14 eight-thousanders ascents, but in better style (eight years (1979-1987, Messner 16 years), on 9 peaks he send new route, 4 ascents in winter!).

1988 - Maciej Berbeka is first climber who ascend 8000 meters in Karakorum in winter (Rocky Summit on Broad Peak)

1988, 31 Dec - Krzysztof Wielicki ascend Lhotse in winter (also solo)

1990 - First route on south face of Lhotse (Russian team: Siergiej Bierszow, Vladimir Karatajew)

1992, 10 March - Catherine Destivelle solo on north face of Eiger in 17 hours. First time woman go on that hard face solo.

1995 - Reinhold Messner started with project MMM (Messner Mountain Museum).

1997 - First ascent on west face of Latok II. Aleksander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch and Conrad Anker.

1999 - Denis Urubko in 42 days ascent 5 seven-thousanders of ZSSR, and became "Snow Leopard".

2004 - Steve House send solo new route on south face of K7 (41 hours from base to base).

2005, 14 Jan - First winter ascent on Shisha Pangma (Piotr Morawski, Simone Moro). Simone became first non polish climber, who ascend eight-thousander in winter.

2005 - New route in alpine style on Rupal Face, Nanga Parbat. Vince Anderson, Steve House.

2009, 9 Feb - First winter ascent on Makalu (Simone Moro, Denis Urubko)

2009, 13 Jan - Ueli Steck do new time record on north face of Matterhorn. (Schmid Route, 1:56 hours, solo!)

2010, 17 May -  First woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World (Edurne Pasaban).

2011, 2 Feb - First winter ascent on Gasherbrrum II (first eight-thousander in Karakorum). (Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, Cory Richards.

2011, 23 Aug - Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner complete all of the fourteen eight-thousander, without bottled oxygen.

2011, 20 AprNew record on north face of Eiger. Dani Arnold do Heckmair Route in 2:28.

2012, 19 Jan - Free climbing on Compressor Route on Cerro TorreZespół: David Lama, Peter Ortner.

2012, 15 Jul - First ascent on Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat (Sandy Allan, Rick Allen).

2012 - Robert Jasper send Ironman M/D14+ in Eptingen

2013, 9 Oct - Ueli Steck do solo new route on south face of Annapurna. Base-peak-base in 28 hours.

Last modified onThursday, 13 February 2014 15:49

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