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L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b - San Vito Lo Capo
L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b (6a obl.), 260 m is eight multi-pitch route on Pizzo Monaco in San Vito Lo Capo on Sicilia. The route is quite popular in this area. Pitches are bolted (S2, take 12 quickdraws) but for the last pitch maybe take some slings.
First Ascent - F. Calabrese, L. Cutietta, M. Oviglia, E. Pinotti
On L'abito non fa il Monaco you need 60 m double rope
Approach
Photo Gulliver.it
Pizzo Monaco
Start of the route
10 minutes. Here you have link to google maps.
GPS N38° 10'09,5'' E12° 45'07,0
Pitches are graded:
6a+ (35 m) - nice vertical climbing
6b (15 m) - short crack and holes
6b (40 m) - long dihedral with tricky sequence
View from route
5c (45 m) - walls and ridges, move to the left
Małgorzata Jaworska on 5c pitch
5b (15 m) - short climbing to good ledge
6b (40 m) - overhang with good holds. Very nice pitch
5b (40 m) - Easy climb to large boulder
Big ledge below easy dihedral
4b (40 m) - Climb the easy dihedral. Then easy terrain to the summit of Pizzo Monaco.
Summit photo :-)
Descent
Rappeling
Towards the east arete to a rappel station (almost 60 meters). From here go on a patch to the road.
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Damian Granowski
Climbing trainer in Cracow. enthusiast of rock climbing, mountaineering (summer and winter), ice climbing, dry-tooling. Owner of blog drytooling.com.pl.
My climbing school you will find here: kursyskalkowe.pl (also climbing courses in english language).