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Never Sleeping Wall - best climbing in Siciliy

Never Sleeping Wall - best climbing in Siciliy

Never Sleeping Wall - near of San Vito lo Capo (on this link you have practical info about climbing in San Vito Lo Capo) - is fantastic climbing wall. Overhanging and up to 90 m wall, with long routes (the longest has 57 meters). Climbing here is probably the best in Sicily: amazing tufa climbs, long overhang, big holds, stamina climbing. Grades from 6a to 8a+. Definitely if you do just 6b then you must go here.

 Me on Sweet Dreams are Made of This 6c. Photo: Ania Resiak

Magdalena Trólka on Silent Sleep 6a+. Photo: Damian Granowski

Never Sleeping Wall is near of Grotta Mangiapane (Scurati). The first routes were developed in 2008 (Jim Titt and a group of Czech & italian climbers.

Unknow Italian climber on Conscious Change 6b+ (?). Photo: Damian Granowski

You pass by car this tourist attraction and park at the base of the Never Sleeping Wall (maps google). Every route is bolted but route Long White Night 7c has great runout (57 m and 14 bolts) Also Long White Line has 9 bolts (36 meters). Incredible Tears of Freedom is ranking as one of the most beautiful 7a+ in the world.

Fun & Seitenstrang 6b on the left (climb Gosia Jezierska). On right Magda Dudek at Harissa 5b. Photo: Ania Resiak

Climbing Guidebook: Sicily Rock (Sicilia - sport climbing. Karsten Oelze & Harald Roker). Area: San Vito lo Capo, Castelluzzo, Custonaci.

Michał Ryszka on Peperoncini 6a. Photo: Ania Resiak

Topo Sleeping Wall on Sicily (click to enlarge). Author: Damian Granowski

Topo is availaible in pdf. Is free and if you download then like this article (on fb, g+).  You can like my funpage on facebook,. 5-10 times in month you will find somethin interesting. Usually about mountaineering, but sometimes I write stuff like that :).

 

Topo (list of routes - very good are in bold font)

1. Fran Zenta 6c+ (25m, you need 14 quickdraws); E. Marlier, E. Caserini, D. Garin

2. La Rossa Tue 6c (23m, 12 quickdraws);

3. Ede 7a+ (23m, 10 quickdraws);

4. Enoteca Randazzo 7b (28 m, 13 quickdraws);

5. Sweet Dreams are Made of This 6c (22m, 9 quickdraws);

6. Long Sleep 6b+ (30m, 13 quickdraws)

7. Conscious Change 6b+ (24m, 10 quickdraws)

8. Silent Sleep 6a+ (27m, 11 quickdraws)

Magda Trólka on Silent Sleep 6a+. Photo: Damian Granowski

9. Bella Sussana 7a (32, 13 quickdraws)

10. Cerca Passaggio 7b+/c (32m, 15 quickdraws)

11. Long White Line 7b+ (36m, 9 quickdraws)

12. Long White Night 7c (57m, 14 quickdraws)

13. Pioneer 6c+ (23m 11 quickdraws)

14. Superman 7c+/8a (32m 12 quickdraws)

15. Evil Lurks Behind Every Man's Hearth 8a (55m 18 quickdraws)

16. Tears of Freedom 7a+ (37m, 15 quickdraws)

17. Il Patrone Nero 8a/a+ (35m, 14 quickdraws)

18. Fun & Seitenstrang 6b (25m, 9 quickdraws)

19. Harissa 5b (20m, 8 quickdraws)

20. Peperoncini 6a (20m, 8 quickdraws)

Amazing tufa climbing. Photo: Ania Resiak

Last modified onSunday, 27 September 2015 08:54