Le Vol Du Dragon, new route on Les Droites
- Details
- Damian Granowski
Czech climbers Jan Straka i Pavel Vrtik do new route on Les Droites. Le Vol Du Dragon (M7+ A2 1200m. 8-12 march 2014). Alpine style, no bolts, only one pitch is aid, 3 biwaques on wall. Here you have film from ascent.
Lucie Hrozová repeated Bafomet M14 - movie
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- Damian Granowski
Yesterday Lucie Hrozová repeated Bafomet M14 in Tatra Mountains (Poland). It's the first female ascent on this route and fourth in order. There also is movie from this ascent :).
Angelika Rainer repeated Steel Koan M13+
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- Damian Granowski
Angelika Rainer on one trip repeated dry-tooling classic Steel Koan M13+, and win on Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival.
On first day in Canada They have something about -30 °C. First Angelika with Marco Servalli go to cave Haffner Cave, where was only... -27 °C. She repeat Caveman M10 and Fire Roasted JC’s Rig, M10, both on flash style.
Next She go to cave Cineplex, where on third day, she repeat Steel Koan M13+ (there was -10 °C). Respect!
The hardest route repeated by woman is Ironman M14+ (Lucie Hrozová, 2013).
After the success in Cineplex, Angelika go to Bozeman, where she win :-).
17. Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival, USA
11 -15 December 2013
Woman
1. Angelika Rainer, Italy
2. Stephanie Maureau, France
3. Sarah Huenkien, Canada
Men
1. Janez Svolijaak, Slovenia
2. Will Gadd, Canada
3. Will Mayo, USA
Source: planetmountain.com
Black Eagle M13
- Details
- Damian Granowski
In Korea Young Hye Kwon send a new dry-tooling route. Black Eagle has grade M13. 37 meters long (30 in roof).
Alpawand / From Earth to Heaven 7+
- Details
- Damian Granowski
From Earth to Heaven 7+ is 550 meters multi-pitch sport route on Alpawand in Austria. Route offering nice climb on small holds on limestone. Last pitches (on The Nose) are outstanding! Alpawand (one of the highest wall in Reiteralm) is nice opportunity to short brake on travel to other alpine destinations. Altought route need endurance and solid climbing skill in seventh grade.
Salluard Route 6a+ / Pointe Adolphe Rey, Mont Blanc du Tacul
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- Damian Granowski
Salluard Route (6a+ 260m ) on Pointe Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc du Tacul massif) is nice multipitch route on good cracks and corners. But the place is impressive. A heavy recommended route for warm up and acclimatization. Granite is excellent here :). Also, you have here sun by almost all day.
Grandes Jorasses / Desmaison (Gousseault)
- Details
- Damian Granowski
Desmaison (Gousseault) on the north face of Grandes Jorasses is described as one of the finest mixed climbs in The french Alps. On 11-14 of October 2017 we do this route and here you have a description of Desmaison. Like they say in the guidebook: “Go for it, before you become an old fart”... ;-).
Aiguille du Midi / The Cosmiques Ridge
- Details
- Damian Granowski
The Cosmiques Ridge (in french Arête des Cosmiques) is one of the most classic climbs in Mont Blanc Massif. This ridge on the Aiguille du Midi need minimal approach and is easily accessible from the cable car. Give easy grade (french PD/PD+), nice views and you know why Cosmiques are so popular. This is also a good way for acclimatization for harder routes, and for a relative beginning climbers great alpine goal.