The Cosmiques Ridge (in french Arête des Cosmiques) is one of the most classic climbs in Mont Blanc Massif. This ridge on the Aiguille du Midi need minimal approach and is easily accessible from the cable car. Give easy grade (french PD/PD+), nice views and you know why Cosmiques are so popular. This is also a good way for acclimatization for harder routes, and for a relative beginning climbers great alpine goal.
Grade: AD 4a (crux has 4c)
Length: 240-300 m. Elevation 3550 m / 3842 m
Time: 2-3 hours (half of the day with approach/descent by cable car on Aiguille du Midi. But on this route can be a big traffic)
Localization: Aiguille du Midi / Mont Blanc Massif / Chamonix (France)
Character: Ridge, traverses, slabs, couloirs
First ascent: 1911, 2 August - George and Maxwell Finched
Technical Information:
Difficulty rating: PD/PD+, 4a (4c crux)
Elevation min/max: 3550 m / 3842 m
Height difference: +300 m / -300 m
Difficulties height difference: 240 m
Arête des Cosmiques offers climbing on rock, ice, and snow. It is possible to do this route in every season. It is not difficult for climbers, but you must be prepared for mixed conditions which depend from the time of the year. You will descent to the glacier and climb up granite slabs & crack.
Area of Aiguille du Midi is known for a good place for acclimatization. Typically you take a cable car to the top (~3800 m), do some route and quickly go to Chamonix (~1000 m). That was our tactic for climbing on north face of Grandes Jorasses.
Cosmiques are very popular (especially in high season (from June to September) then be prepared for a lot of people on the ridge. A good option is to start early (first cable car). Also, be prepared if there is a strong wind.
Gear
• Crampons
• Ice axe (or two in winter)
• 60 m half rope
• Half a set of nuts (mostly cams to 0.75)
• 4 slings
• 4 quickdraws
• Abseil/belay device