Notice: Undefined offset: 1 in /home/damgran/domains/winterclimb.com/public_html/plugins/system/k2/k2.php on line 702
Climbing Base - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Wed, 27 Oct 2021 20:17:47 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb Salluard Route 6a+ / Pointe Adolphe Rey, Mont Blanc du Tacul https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/128-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey-mont-blanc-du-tacul https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/128-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey-mont-blanc-du-tacul Salluard Route 6a+ / Pointe Adolphe Rey, Mont Blanc du Tacul

Salluard Route (6a+ 260m ) on Pointe Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc du Tacul massif) is nice multipitch route on good cracks and corners. But the place is impressive. A heavy recommended route for warm up and acclimatization. Granite is excellent here :). Also, you have here sun by almost all day.

Grade: 6a+

Lenght: 260 m, 8 pitches

Time: 3-4 h

Localization: Pointe Adolphe Rey / Mont Blanc du Tacul / Chamonix

Character: corners, cracks, slabs

First ascent: 1951, 6 September - Toni Busi and Franco Salluard

view-from-salluard-route.jpg

View from The route

Approach

You have two options:

From Aiguille du Midi (1,5h)

Descend to Col du Midi plateau (3670 m) and cross the glacier to Pointe Adolphe Rey.

mont-blanc-du-tacul.jpg

Approach from Refuge Torino

From Refuge Torino (1h)

From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and descend towards the obvious Pic Adolphe Rey rocky outcrop Prepare that later you must approach this same way to Torino (uphill) :-).

Route

1. pitch 4a, 30 m. Climb rotten rocks to a corner-crack and go to belay on the ledge

first-pitch-on-salluard-route.jpg

Tomek Reinfuss on first pitch - very nice crack :)

2. pitch 6a, 25 m. Go to the small overhang above the belay. This is the crux of the route and place is technical and physical, but quite ok.

tomasz-reinfuss-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey.jpg

Tomasz Reinfuss on the crux pitch

3. pitch 5c, 25 m. Climb a crack (and corners) on the left side of the ridge.

4. pitch 5b, 30m. Go to big groove and later go on a big ledge, where you will be below a big chimney.

5. pitch 5c, 35m Climb the chimney (nice cracks inside) and then go to the left to another corner. Pass belay and go to the left and climb the cracked slab above for 10 meters. You will find belay on a ledge.

6. pitch 5a, 35m go to a big ledge and climb cracks to belay - which is 5m from the left of the arete.

salluard-route-mont-blanc-du-tacul.jpg

Last pitch

7. pitch 5b, 30m. Go to corner system on the left (nice cracks) and direct to V-shaped col. The belay will be on a big ledge.

bartek-szeliga-on-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey.jpg

Bartek Szeliga on last pitch

8. pitch 5c, 40m. Climb directly from the belay on the cracks and flakes. The last belay is on the summit ridge of the Pointe Adolphe Rey. Usually climbers descent from this point, but you can continue to the summit.

bartek-szeliga-on-salluard-route.jpg

Descent

Abseil to the base of the route. You have prepared fixed anchors.

Gear

Standard set for easy routes in Chamonix:

- some nuts

- Set of cams to (#3), double purple, green, red

- 12 quickdraws

- 60 double rope.

joomplu:422
The Salluard Route line
 
]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 06 Feb 2018 15:00:05 +0000
Aiguille du Midi / The Cosmiques Ridge https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/126-the-cosmiques-ridge-aiguille-du-midi-chamonix-mont-blanc https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/126-the-cosmiques-ridge-aiguille-du-midi-chamonix-mont-blanc Aiguille du Midi / The Cosmiques Ridge

The Cosmiques Ridge (in french Arête des Cosmiques) is one of the most classic climbs in Mont Blanc Massif. This ridge on the Aiguille du Midi need minimal approach and is easily accessible from the cable car. Give easy grade (french PD/PD+), nice views and you know why Cosmiques are so popular. This is also a good way for acclimatization for harder routes, and for a relative beginning climbers great alpine goal.

Grade: AD 4a (crux has 4c)
Length: 240-300 m. Elevation 3550 m / 3842 m
Time: 2-3 hours (half of the day with approach/descent by cable car on Aiguille du Midi. But on this route can be a big traffic)
Localization: Aiguille du Midi / Mont Blanc Massif / Chamonix (France)
Character: Ridge, traverses, slabs, couloirs
First ascent: 1911, 2 August - George and Maxwell Finched

views-from-aiguille-du-midi.jpg

Technical Information:

Difficulty rating: PD/PD+, 4a (4c crux)
Elevation min/max: 3550 m / 3842 m
Height difference: +300 m / -300 m
Difficulties height difference: 240 m

Arête des Cosmiques offers climbing on rock, ice, and snow. It is possible to do this route in every season. It is not difficult for climbers, but you must be prepared for mixed conditions which depend from the time of the year. You will descent to the glacier and climb up granite slabs & crack.

Area of Aiguille du Midi is known for a good place for acclimatization. Typically you take a cable car to the top (~3800 m), do some route and quickly go to Chamonix (~1000 m). That was our tactic for climbing on north face of Grandes Jorasses.

Cosmiques are very popular (especially in high season (from June to September) then be prepared for a lot of people on the ridge. A good option is to start early (first cable car). Also, be prepared if there is a strong wind.

arete-de-cosmiques-approach.jpg

Gear
• Crampons
• Ice axe (or two in winter)
• 60 m half rope
• Half a set of nuts (mostly cams to 0.75)
• 4 slings
• 4 quickdraws
• Abseil/belay device

{loadposition skyscraper}

Approach

From Chamonix take a cable car to the top of Aiguille du Midi (ticket up/down cost ~60 euro…) and go to the ice tunnel. Descent the steep snow ridge and traverse below the South Face of the Midi (outstanding summer climbing in orange granite). Go near of the Simond Hut.

descent-from-aiguille-du-midi.jpg

Descending from Aiguille du Midi

The Cosmiques Ridge

The Ridge start on easy mixed terrain, which leads to a small summit. At this part of the climb, you will go on the right side of the “ridge”. Take direction to the first gendarme (~3731 m ), climb the inclined slabs (4b). Go on the ridge to the second subsidiary summit. Do a descending traverse (or abseil).

climbing-on-cosmique-ridge-aiguille-du-midi.jpg

View to crux of the route

{loadposition position-14}

Next, go to the first tower and abseil 30 m (bolted belays). Move on the right on the base of the first tower. Climb a small chimney (4a) and go up to ridge (here go also the Cosmiques Couloir). On big ledge go right around the second tower.

damian-granowski-on-crux-cosmiques-ridge.jpg

Author on crux pitch. Photo Tomasz Klimczak

Before you are crux section. 5 meters of terrain 4c (slab with cracks). The slab is quite easy because you have drilled (sic!) holes for your front points of crampons. Traverse right above the slab, go to the narrow ledge. From there go to the big terrace and cross the ridge to NW face.

cosmique-ridge-chamonix-mont-blanc.jpg

Outstanding view!

Descent and go right to couloir chimney (2 pitches 3c and 4a).

the-cosmique-ridge-view.jpg

On the ridge go to the metal ladder and access to the terrace of Midi station and to cable car, back to Chamonix.

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Mon, 06 Nov 2017 16:31:37 +0000
Grandes Jorasses / Desmaison (Gousseault) https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/125-desmaison-gousseault-route-north-face-of-grandes-jorasses https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/125-desmaison-gousseault-route-north-face-of-grandes-jorasses Grandes Jorasses / Desmaison (Gousseault)

Desmaison (Gousseault) on the north face of Grandes Jorasses is described as one of the finest mixed climbs in The french Alps. On 11-14 of October 2017 we do this route and here you have a description of Desmaison. Like they say in the guidebook: “Go for it, before you become an old fart”... ;-).

"When I think of the Grandes Jorasses, I think real class
When I think of good conditions on the north face, I think those who are not there are missing out
When I think of all those routese, I think I still have loads to do
When I think of the Desmaison, I think- Go for it, before you become an old fart...."

Chroistophe Moulin

Grade: ED2 VI 6a A1/A2, 1200m
Length: 1200 m (33-36 pitches). We have 33.
Time: 2-4 days.
Localization: North Face of Grandes Jorasses / Chamonix (France)
Character: snow/ice ramps 50-85 degrees, corners chimneys, mixt,
First ascent: 1973 10-17 February - René Desmaison, Giorgio Gertone, and Michele Clareta
First free ascent: 2007, October - Guy Robertson and Pete Benson

Climbing on the north face of Grandes Jorasses isn’t easy. This is one of the wildest places in Mont Blanc massif. After you climb north face you have complicated (and dangerous) descent on the south side of Grandes Jorasses.

03_przygotowanie-mentalne-przed-wbiciem-sie-w-sciane.jpg

Lescheaux hut. Photo Damian Granowski

Approach

The best way is to train to Montenvers (from Chamonix). You go to Mer de Glace and approach ~4 hours to mountain hut Leschaux, where is good to stay for a night.
From there you have 3-4 hours to the base of the north face of Grandes Jorasses.

04_podejscie.jpg

Approach to the base of the north face. Photo Tomasz Klimczak

Climbing

Best time for climbing this route is autumn, winter, and early spring. You can do this route in any conditions, but… I recommended that do this route in good conditions :). On route, you will find a lot of rotten rock, and a few big boulders, which can fall with you (especially if they will be not frozen).
Best is if easy terrain on Ramps is covered in consolidated snow and ice. Perfect conditions were for that purpose were in 2014 (very rare) and some teams do Desmaison in 2 days.
We have poor conditions (but good weather) and need 4 days to complete Desmaison. The hardest pitches were this easiest :-). Sometimes you can find a rotten rock, covered by snow. A lot of time takes in this conditions to find holds and solid place for protection. In good conditions, you probably run at this “easy” places.
Another problem was bivi places, which are VERY poor if there is not so many snow. All our bivouacs were in sitting position. Check fresh foto of the wall and search for ice on ramps :-). Hardest pitches (with M-grade) are usually possible to climb even if they are dry. We don’t have problems with them.

Desmaison (Gousseault) has some start variation:
Originally (1971 and 1973 year) Desmaison started on an overhanging wall between the gully of The Shroud and Ramp I.
Now you can start also: October 2000 start (250 m by The Schrund and go to the top of Ramp I), January 2000 (Start at gully on the right of The Shroud and go to chimney), Colton-Smith (most logical if the start of this route is covered in ice). All the starts to the Desmaison lead to the top of Ramp I.

01a_dobor-sprzetu.jpg

Gear

We choose:

- double rope 50 m
- one set of friend to #3 (purple and green doubled). Plus set of microfriends
- 8 ice screw (mostly short)
- set of 11 nuts
- set of pitons (especially 2-3 knifeblades, 3 "Jedynka") + hammer
- 12 quickdraws (include 8 alpine)
- couple of slings 120 cm and 12 meter of cord
- Jumar and microtraxion

Food (for one day)

- 200 grams of nuts,
- 100 grams of dried fruits
- one portion of liofilizated food
- one light liof for team on breakfast
- soup (one for team)
- 2 tables of izotonic
- some individual sweeties

My clothes and personal gear

-2 pair of Smartwool socks
- shoes with inner boots. My were TNF Verto S6k Extreme.
- underwear clothes
- t-shirt
- hoodie Cortina Montano
-
 El Cap Montano Softshell
- down jacket Yeti Wave
- 3 pair of gloves (Monkey's Grip Power Load and Dt. Plus one very light for operation on bivoaucs)
- cap and shawl
- sunglasses
- Ct Ascent harness
- Ct Orion helmet
- Fixe Frog Belay Device
- 3 CT hms
- one CT hammer
- 2 Nomics
- Simond Vampire crampons
- 2 cords

Bivvy gear

- one windboil 1l
- 500 gram of winter gas
- sleeping bag
- bivy bag
- carrimat

{loadposition position-14}

After reconnaissance, we choose January 2000 start.
We climb ~60 meters in quite good ice. Next, we climb mixt M5 pitch which ends at the base of the chimney M5+. Prepare for war if there is no conditions in chimney :-].

05_kominek-za-m5.jpg

Tomek at the beginning of chimney pitch

After chimney pitch move to the right to the easier-angled mixed ground to the foot of a rock step (top of Ramp I). On this step, you will find 2 pitches. First is 5c/M6, with traverse (old poor fixed ropes) to a small flake. Secon M5 to the top of Ramp I.

06_wyciag-m6-do-szczytu-pierwszej-rampy.jpg

M6 pitch to the top of Ramp I. Photo Tomasz Klimczak

06a_-drugi-wyciag-M6-na-szczyt-I-rampy.jpg

Second pitch. Photo Tomasz Klimczak

In this area (2-3 easier pitches) we have the first bivouac.

07_wejscie-na-druga-rampe.jpg

Morning of second day

After that, you go to start of Ramp II. From here you climb 50 m rock wall (right to the chimney and after to the left). Next 80 meters of easier terrain (M4, 80°. We have some nice ice and later poor rotten rock covered in snow), which ends at the base of Ramp III.
You will find there 60 meters of 6a/M7 mixed terrain (or A1). Tomek aid last part and move out to “excellent bivvy site”, which was not so excellent :-). But in better conditions should be better.

08_Klimas-na-dojsciu-do-III-rampy-jeden-z-kluczowych-wyciagow-drogi.jpg

Tomek heading for this hard pitch (lower crux). Photo Damian Granowski

From here you have 300 meters of easier climbing in ice (section 80-85° thin ice). If there will be not so many ice then prepare for battle in corners with loose rock. Ramp III goes to the foot of headwall, where are connections to other routes. At the base of headwall we have another bivvy site, but if you have time, then try one more pitch of headwall and you probably find a better place, with a sun at dawn :-).

09_krotki-fragment-przyjemnego-lodowego-wspinu-na-III-rampie.jpg

III Ramp. Photo Damian Granowski

10_tuz-przed-3-biwakiem-pod-headwallem.jpg

At the base of headwall. Photo Tomasz Klimczak

Headwall consists some nice mixt pitches. First is 50 m of climbing in cracks at grade M5. Second is M5+, which goes diagonally (to the right) in solid red rock to the base of the chimney.
We climb 40m in - not so good - rock, climb chimney (M5, some old fixed ropes - abandoned during a Korean attempt. After you climb chimney go to the right (poor rock, and loose blocks) below monolithic step.
Crux pitch (M6 or 5c A1) of headwall is before you. Climb the wide crack (hand traverse) and after this go to left (don’t go to pegged crack on the right!). Climb to the corner (maybe you must take off gloves) and go to ice smear.

11_kluczowy-rowniez-najpiekniejszy-wyciag-headwalla-m6-wi3.jpg

Hand traverse on the headwall crux pitch. Photo Tomasz Klimczak

After this pitch, you have 4-5 pitches of Exit Ramp (200m, M4, 75°).

12_Klimas-w-sporej-ekspozycji-na-kluczowym-wyciagu-headwalla.jpg

Nice 1000 meter exposure :-). Photo Damian Granowski

It depends from the conditions. We have some “hard” climbing in not consolidate snow. On the last part go to corners from the right side. It should be the easiest way to the top.

13_Klimas-na-rampie-wyjsciowej.jpg

Tomek on exit ramp. Photo Damian Granowski

15_biwak-na-wierzcholku.jpg

Good morning Mont Blanc! Photo Damian Granowski

Descent (4-5 hours)

from the Grandes Jorasses is one of the hardest and complicated in Mont Blanc massif. Some sections are exposed to seracs, stone fall or avalanche… In the night or poor weather can be difficult to find the route. It's a good idea to have map, compass, and GPS with coordinates of crucial points.
The best way from Pte Walker is “normal” route. From the summit head down (slightly leftwards) to S rock ridge. The descent on the crest (rock&ice) to glacial plateau. Traverse west across the glacier (be quick! Above you are a line of seracs) to get to the Rochers Whymper (base of S spur of Pte Whymper).
You will find here some Rappels (in good conditions you can descent without them) which lead you to Gl. des Grandes Jorasses.
Traverse this glacier to the west to the top of Rocher du Reposoir. Go down the crest of this ridge (poor rocks). After few hundred meters go to left side of the crest. Last part you can climb down or use two 30 m abseils.

16_zejscie-na-poludniowa-strone-grandes-jorasses.jpg

Descent on Rocher du Reposoir. Photo Damian Granowski

We use abseils and after that don’t go down (hard slabs and bergschrund), but traverse to the west to easier part of the glacier.
Head down on the glacier (but take the left side of Glacier de Planpincieux. Near of Rognon de la Bouteille). Move off the glacier onto a rocky plateau. Continue down rocky rib to Boccalatte hut (fixed ropes). The hut cannot be seen until the last minute.
From Boccalatte hut go down by patch to village Planpincieux (2-3 hours).

18_fototopo.jpg

Desmaison 11-14 October 2017, Damian Granowski and Tomasz Klimczak. 3 bivvy at the wall and one of the peak of Grande Jorasses. 1200 m, M6+, WI4, A1.

Movie from this trip:

{youtube}OdOAJNIfFMs{/youtube}

and another

{youtube}-fmCLPDmhyY{/youtube}

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Sun, 22 Oct 2017 18:38:57 +0000
Winter in Donegal https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/120-winter-in-donegal https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/120-winter-in-donegal Winter in Donegal

Winter in Ireland is a very fleeting mistress with a sudden drop in the ambient air temperature and an even swifter rise in temperature, Winter conditions in the Irish mountains can come and go in a single day. It is when a period of extended cold weather hits the Emerald Isle, it is then that its mountains are transformed into a true winter wonderland. The online winter climbing guide is found at uniqueascent.ie.

At the northern end of The Derryveagh Mountains in County Donegal lives a huge flat topped mountain called Muckish named from the Irish, Mucais or an Mhucais, meaning the pig's back. The south face of the mountain holds the easiest and most popular route to it’s huge flat topped summit. The north face of Muckish is a completely different beast as the entire face is dominated by a huge steep sided corrie. This corrie holds the remains of the ancient mining works used long ago to extract the high grade quartz sand from the mountain, the sand was then used to produce high quality glass.

{youtube}u-aIgKu-Q_s{/youtube}

winter-donegal-ireland.jpg

Looking for Donegal Ice

The old miners track into the corrie provides an excellent and easy summer navigation route into the corrie and up onto the summit of the mountain. When winter hits county Donegal this corrie is transformed into an outstanding winter mountaineering venue. The steep normally wet sides of the corrie freeze and are plastered with snow. With a few freeze/ thaw cycles this snow soon consolidates and is quickly transformed into superb neve. This neve provides outstanding underfoot conditions for winter walking into this magnificent corrie. The miners track is quite steep in places and a single walking axe and crampons are recommended as the track weaves it’s way up and through several amazing but steep gullies to the huge summit plateau.

winter-donegal-ireland-topo.jpg

Unclimbed Winter Ground

From the summit of Muckish Mountain the views are vast, uninterrupted and breathtaking as far as the eye can see towards the Slievetooey massif to the South, the Inishowen Peninsula to the North and the surrounding Derryveagh mountains.

poisoned-glen-climb.jpg
Poisoned Glen climbing

Poisoned Glen in the Derryveagh Mountains is by far the most outstanding winter climbing venue in Donegal and a contender for the best in Ireland. This wall of north-facing cliff stretches for over a kilometre and reaches a height of 400m at its highest point on The Bearnas Buttress. The cliff is seamed with deep wet gullies and hidden vertical water courses and given the correct winter conditions it will provide many lifetimes of icy climbing potential. Alas when the glen comes into excellent condition it is prone to temperature inversion which can allow for good conditions for the walk in but means an early start to avoid the midday thaw on the high faces.

errigal-northwest-face.jpg

Errigal Topo

Errigal Mountain is Donegal’s highest point. Its south ridge route is climbed by thousands of walkers on an annual basis. Under winter conditions this mountain provides exceptional winter mountaineering routes on its exposed north, west and east faces. The climbing is mainly mixed climbing on faces and arêtes with the north face providing the excellent 200m long, grade III Tower Ridge.

slieve-snaght-summit.jpg

Slieve Snaght Summit

The North face of Mac Uchta, Errigal’s next door neighbour provides a collection of steep snow gullies all in the lower grade in a spectacular and lonely setting.

The north face of Maumlack high above the shores of Lough Croloughan provides an easy accessed venue with a reliable collection of water ice routes.

The huge, remote and mildly intimidating north face of Slieve Snaght in the Derryveagh Mountains, provides a selection of excellent low grade winter climbs in a superb and atmospheric location.

maumlack-topo.jpg

Maumlack Topo

The Horseshoe Coire is a huge steep sided corrie immediately to the northwest of Lough Barra in the Derryveagh mountains and provides many steep water courses and falls. The potential for further winter routes here is enormous alas it is south-facing and requires a prolonged deep freeze.

square-cut-gully.jpg

Square Cut Gully

The above locations are just a small sample of the winter climbing available when conditions allow, with many more less reliable venues scattered throughout the county’s mountain ranges. Check also Scotland.

Iain Miller is a rock climber living working and playing on the sea cliffs, sea stacks, uninhabited islands and mountain ranges of County Donegal in the Republic of Ireland. The climbers guide to Donegal is http://uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal.

]]>
Mountain Base Mon, 06 Feb 2017 07:05:01 +0000
Eiger / Heckmair Route ED2 (classic!) https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/118-heckmair-route-eiger-north-face https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/118-heckmair-route-eiger-north-face Eiger / Heckmair Route ED2 (classic!)

There are routes which every alpine climber want to do. One of them is Heckmair Route on North Face of Eiger, biggest wall in The Alps. Wall with history – before the first ascent in 1938, there died some climbers and wall has new nickname „Mordwand”. Today Heckmair Route is hard classic alpine route and usually teams needs 2 days of climbing. But speed record is below 3 hours…

We (Michał Dorocicz and Damian Granowski) climb North Face of Eiger in 2016 (22-23 March). Below you have description and topo of Heckmair Route. Original article (in polish) you will find here: drytooling.com.pl.

Grade: ED2, V+, WI4. On Heckmair Route are fixed lines (Hinterstoiser Traverse, etc.), but if You want to climb everything free then prepare for M7+ (in good conditions).
Length: 4 km and 1800 meters of denivelation
Time: 1-2 days. Usually two days.
Localization: North Face of Eiger / Grindelwald (Switzerland)
Character: snow/ice fields 50-70 degrees, chimneys, mixt,
First ascent: 1938, 20-24 July - Heinrich Harrer, Anderl Heckmair, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vörg.
First one-day ascent: 1950 - Leo Forstenlechner and Erich Wascak (18 hours).
First winter ascent: 1961, 6-12 March - Walter Almberger, Toni Hiebeler, Toni Kinshofer and Anderl Mannhardt.

These days the most popular time for climbing on North Face of Eiger is late autumn, winter, and early spring. In summer – due to global warming – conditions are not good. A lot of loose rock (which in winter are frozen) and falling stones.

Here you have some tips:

Heckmair Route isn’t extreme alpine route but rather “hard alpine classic” but don’t disrespect difficulties.
- In general, the route is hard, rock is rotten with demanding protection. You will find old pitons, some bolts. On harder pitches protection is better.
- falling stones. In summer much more
- There are some fixed lines but be careful. Some of them are not in good shape ;)
- Do proper acclimatization. In higher parts of the route, you must be quick. Maybe tray something easy and quick (like Breithorn).
- Go when conditions are ok.
- Almost half of the route you do on simul-climbing. Take good partner...

{loadposition position-14}

To Grindenwald go by your own car (40 euros for a vignette on a highway). There you will find accommodation on campings (10-15 euro) or apartments (from 60 franks).

Grindelwald lay on 1000 m a.s.l.. The base of Eiger North Face on 2160 m a.s.l.. The best option is to go by small historic train. You go to Kleinescheidegg (2000 m) and after that to station Eigergletscher.
From there we go to base of the wall (short traverse).

joomplu:372

Fototopo of Heckmair Route. Credits: Damian Granowski

joomplu:375

The first part of the route (about 800 meters) is “easy” and in good conditions, you can go to Difficult Crack almost free solo.
We start on the right side of First Pillar (about 200 meters) and follow the easiest line. There are many variations, but all are quite easy (with some short rock sections).

After 150 meters (at the Shattered Pillar height) we go to the right and soon to the left. Traverse on snow ledges and when you will be on snowfield (with overhang wall above) then you go 50 meters to right.
There will be Difficult Crack (Belay pegs, old slings).

Difficult Crack is… well Difficult, even if has V- (M5+). One pitch and we are on Belay. From there you go to the left to small rock Dihedral. After that, you have easy snow terrain which leads you to Hinterstoisser Traverse.

joomplu:373
 
Climbing after the Difficult Crack. Photo: Michał Dorocicz

Travers is very hard for mixed climbing. Almost without steps and holds. After 30 seconds I decided to aid this :-). There are 60 meters of fixed lines (traverse and small chimney). Pitch end on belay on beginning First Icefield.

joomplu:376
 
On The Hinterstoisser Traverse. Photo: Michał Dorocicz

We go 100 meters (snow/ice to 55 degrees) to the upper right, where is Ice Hose. 20 meters of Icefall (if you have good conditions something about WI3-4). 30 m above Icefall you will find “good” belay on the big boulder.

Now we are on Second Ice Field. We go straight ahead to rocks. After that run to the left, across the icefield to the upper left corner. There climb chimney, groove and easy terrain to the Death Bivvy.

joomplu:274
Michał Dorocicz on the Second Ice Field

On the Death Bivvy, you will find a place (snow ledge) for 4 persons. Clean rock and lot of old pegs and bolts. At the 18.00 pm, there will be sun ;-).
The Death Bivvy is probably the best place to spend a night, but if you are here very early (14-15.00) then try to push The Ramp and spend a night on Traverse of Gods.

From the Death Bivvy, we traverse to a big ramp. There are 4-5 pitches (circa 150 m) of climbing. Including Ice Chimney (M7 in good conditions, a lot of pitons). In the middle of The Ramp is Spanish Bivvy, but is weak…

joomplu:380
Begining of the Ramp

Above the Ice chimney is one small wall – hard and demanding. After that is easy climbing in snow and ice. We go to the start of Brittle Ledges (possibly bivy). Traverse them to start of the Brittle Crack – one V+ pitch with quite good rock (especially after The Brittle Ledges).

joomplu:377
Climbin above the Ice Chimney. Photo: Michał Dorocicz

After the Brittle Crack, you will find a flat place for a bivy (one team). I'm not sure, but place probably is windy. And then you have The Traverse of the Gods. 150 meters to The White Spider. Quite exposed but easy (max IV).

joomplu:382
The Traverse of the Gods

You reach The White Spider, Snow/Ice field in the upper part of the wall. From there retreat was difficult. Climb 150 m to the right (big Gully). Be careful not to go to left, big corner with ice – but hard.
Once more 150 meters of climbing in a gully and you will be at the base of The Quartz Crack. Difficult (IV+. SIC!?) chimney.
After that you traverse to the left and climb a small crack to the big pulpit. Here you will find fixed lines which lead you to the Exit Chimneys.

The Exit Chimneys can be pretty hard (but only IV) in weak conditions. Climb them 3-4 pitches (circa 150 m) to the easier terrain which leads you to snow / ice field. Above them will be a ridge.

joomplu:383

Ridge is easy and in good conditions you won’t need rope. To summit, you need 15-20 minutes of climbing.

{loadposition position-14}

heckmair-route-lower-part-640x640.jpg

lower-part-heckmair-route-eiger-small-image.jpg

If you want more mountaineering topo articles in future, then click to like funpage WinterClimb.com :)

 {loadposition likeboxsmall}

Below movie from Heckmair Route (2014 - Tomasz Klimczak and Maciej Janczar)

{youtube}O-tYoTc28Mo{/youtube}

and master Ueli Steck...

{youtube}NfpYNr7es0Y{/youtube}

Climbing Gear for Heckmair Route

We had double 60 m rope, but I think that better will be single 60 m rope (for climbers who have enough experience).
- 10 quickdraws (5 alpine quickdraws)
- set C3 Camalots
- set DMM Dragons (to yellow)
- 7 Wallnuts DMM
- 3 ice screws (blue one size)

No pitons were taken and we didn't feel we needed any.

My personal rack:

- 2 Raptors (Elite climb Ice tool)
- BD Cyborg Crampons (monopoint)
- light Mammut helmet
- CT Ascent Harness
- Fixe Frog Belay Device
- 3 CT hms
- TNF Verto S6k Extreme, double boots
- El Cap Montano Softshell
- adidas Terrex ndosphere jacket (primaloft)
- adidas terrex GTX Active Shell
- adidas Terrex icefeather pant
- Cortina Montano
- under wear clothing (Bruebeck and Odlo)
- Monkeys Grip Gloves (model DT and PowerLoad)
- Smartwool soocks

Bivvy gear:

- Jetboil + gas
- sleeping bag
- mat
- bivvy bag
- food (sweets, 2-3 freeze-dried meals)

Descent from Eiger

We descent by normal route on Eiger (West Face). In good conditions descent took circa 3 hours (to Eigergletscher). Here you will find more info: Eiger West Face.

 

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 01 Nov 2016 19:32:54 +0000
Alpawand / From Earth to Heaven 7+ https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/100-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand-austria https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/100-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand-austria Alpawand / From Earth to Heaven 7+

From Earth to Heaven 7+ is 550 meters multi-pitch sport route on Alpawand in Austria. Route offering nice climb on small holds on limestone. Last pitches (on The Nose) are outstanding! Alpawand (one of the highest wall in Reiteralm) is nice opportunity to short brake on travel to other alpine destinations. Altought route need endurance and solid climbing skill in seventh grade.

Also on Alpawand are some nice classic climbs (probably best know is Wassersymphonie [The Water Symphony] 8 [7- obl]).

tomasz-reinfuss-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand-2.jpg

Tomasz Reinfuss on 6 or 7 pitch (chimneys)

Grade: 7+ (VII+ UIAA)
Length: 550 meters, 17 pitches
Time: 6-8 hours
Best time for climb: July-September
Localization: Austria / Berchtesgaden Alps / Reiteralm/ Alpawand (North face).
Character: well bolted climb, mainly slabs on small holds. Some chimneys and traverses.
First ascent: 2006, 23 September - Fritz Amann, Josef Brüderl and Willi Maier

damian-granowski-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand-the-nose.jpg

Damian Granowski going ahead on traverse on The Nose. Photo. Tomasz Reinfuss

Approach (1,5 hours)

Geogr. 47.625726 N 12.735989 E (619 m above sea level)
UTM 33T 329900 5277186
Above is destination for parking car (small village Reith). You choose direction to Trausteiner hut (good to have MTB - you can cut 30 minutes from Aprroach). When the patch go to foothill of the wall you will find small patch (goes to right) to the base of the Alpawand. You pass two rock steps (fixed ropes) and after you go to corner, where is belay stance (with table “From Earth to Heaven”).

If you will find the base of the route, then is hardly to get lost on route :-).

{loadposition position-14}

Route

joomplu:420
 
Click for bigger fototopo From Earth to Heaven (in gallery)

Its good to wait minimum 1 day after rain, because Alpawand can be wet. Our first choice was Wassersymphonie 8, but it was completely wet at the bottom. From Earth to Heaven at the same day was dry.

tomasz-reinfuss-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand-upper-part.jpg

Typical slabs on the route

Be carefuly on first pitches where you can find “english gardens” (rotten rock and loose gras). Authors (?) put on first pitch fixed rope in one dangerous place.

tomasz-reinfuss-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand-corner.jpg

Corner in the upper part of the wall

From Earth to Heaven consist 17 pitches, which mostly has 5-6 grade. You have six 7th grade pitches. Crux of the route is on the top of the route :-). Alpawand is limestone climbing, and usually You will find tiny and sharp crimps. But don’t be affraid - There is also lot of good holds and quite nice formations. You will climb mainly on slabs, but there will be also:
corners, chimneys (6-7 pitch), traverses (highly recommended on The Nose). The routes ends on top of Alpawand (1671 above sea level).

tomasz-reinfuss-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand-below-the-nose.jpg

Tomasz Reinfuss below The Nose

{loadposition position-14}

Gear

Route is good bolted (there is some hard to clip bolts, but mainly is ok) and you don’t need take nuts and cams. Take:
2x50 m double rope.
14 quickdraws.
Personal gear.

climbing-from-earth-to-heaven-alpawand.jpg.jpg

Unknow german climber on middle part of From Earth to Heaven

Descent

Its not recommended to do abseils (some traverses). From the exit of the route go right to the pines to the Gipfelschrofen. Then go left through steep Latschengassen down to alpine pasture. Here you will find path (yellow dots) to he Alpaalm (another alpine pasture with small hut). Go left by trail down to the valley.

 

Another option if weather is bad will be climbing in Dolomites.

Damian Granowski

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Fri, 03 Nov 2017 10:03:45 +0000
L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b - San Vito Lo Capo https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/95-l-abito-non-fa-il-monaco-6b-san-vito-lo-capo-sicilia https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/95-l-abito-non-fa-il-monaco-6b-san-vito-lo-capo-sicilia L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b - San Vito Lo Capo

L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b (6a obl.), 260 m is eight multi-pitch route on Pizzo Monaco in San Vito Lo Capo on Sicilia. The route is quite popular in this area. Pitches are bolted (S2, take 12 quickdraws) but for the last pitch maybe take some slings.

First Ascent - F. Calabrese, L. Cutietta, M. Oviglia, E. Pinotti

On L'abito non fa il Monaco you need 60 m double rope

Approach

labito non fa il monaco

Photo Gulliver.it

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5544

Pizzo Monaco

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5370

Start of the route

10 minutes. Here you have link to google maps.
GPS N38° 10'09,5'' E12° 45'07,0

{loadposition position-14}

Pitches are graded:

6a+ (35 m) - nice vertical climbing
6b (15 m) - short crack and holes
6b (40 m) - long dihedral with tricky sequence

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5397

View from route

5c (45 m) - walls and ridges, move to the left

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5405

Małgorzata Jaworska on 5c pitch


5b (15 m) - short climbing to good ledge
6b (40 m) - overhang with good holds. Very nice pitch
5b (40 m) - Easy climb to large boulder

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5491

Big ledge below easy dihedral

4b (40 m) - Climb the easy dihedral. Then easy terrain to the summit of Pizzo Monaco.

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5509

Summit photo :-)

{loadposition position-14}

Descent

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5515

Rappeling

Towards the east arete to a rappel station (almost 60 meters). From here go on a patch to the road.

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Sat, 26 Sep 2015 17:25:40 +0000
Marcin “Yeti” Tomaszewski - from alpine to bigwall https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/72-marcin-tomaszewski https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/72-marcin-tomaszewski Marcin “Yeti” Tomaszewski - from alpine to bigwall

A Polish climber, alpinist and climbing instructor. Known for his multipitch ascents both in the big wall and alpine style. Born in 1975 in Poland. He’s been climbing for more than 22 years. A member of the Polish National Team in alpine climbing. From the very beginning he’s been inspired mostly by challenges such as opening new routes in the most inaccessible and vertical faces in the world.

 

Although he has already managed to ascend some of them, year by year he feels hungry for more. However, his life consists not only of climbing as such as he’s devoted to the promotion of the sport in Poland by means of running rock climbing courses and indoor training units, organizing competitions and climbing shows, as well as hosting radio shows. Since 1997, he’s been organizing the Fight Club National Climbing Comp, the event he’s the originator of. In 2005 he became a sport climbing instructor and opened his own climbing school in Szczecin, Poland. Starting from 2009 he’s been implementing the 4 Elements project (/Pl./ 4 Żywioły, www.4zywioly.net) aiming at climbing ascents in four distinctive mountainous regions (Patagonia, Alaska, Baffin Island, Venezuela).

marcin tomaszewski ziemia baffina

On Baffin Island. Photo: David Kaszlikowski

The timeline of the expeditions.

2000 Greenland, Nalumasortoq, new route
2001 Pakistan, Nangmah Valley, Denbor, new route
2002 Baffin Island, Mount Thor, new route
2003 Alaska, Shadows Glacier, new route
2004 India, Garhwal, Mount Meru, the Shark’s Fin route
2005 Yosemite, Salathé Wall, 27h non-stop
2006 Patagonia, Cerro Torre, the Commpressor route
2006 Norway, Trollvegen
2006 China, Qonglai Mountains, Seerdengpu
2007 Norway, Innset Ice climbing.
2007 Alaska, Throne, new route graded 7a
2007 Pakistan, Trango Tower, ascent attempt
2009 Patagonia, Argentina, Fitz Roy, solo attempt
2009 Alaska, Mt. Barril, III, 1200 m solo climb, Mt. Johnson, escalator M5, Wi4 1200 m solo climb
2010 Venezuela, Acopan Tepui, new route
2010 China, Qonglai Mountains, Seerdengpu
2012 Canada, Baffin Island, Polar Sun Spire, new route
2012 Argentina, Patagonia, Cerro Torre, the Ferrari route
2013 Pakistan, Great Trango Tower, new route called Bushido
2014 Alaska, Mount Dickey.
2015 Winter. New line Trollveggen, "Katharsis. M7 / A4

Other achievements:

2014 "TRAVELER" Award, National Geographic Traveler.
2014- International Team Camp / Cassin
2014- "KOLOS" Award for Bushido pave the way for the Great Trango Tower in 2013
2013 - Distinction EpicTV channel. The award of the highest ratings for crossing the road BigWall BUSHIDO in Pakistan with all achievements from around the world in 2013.
2013- the award of present-day Ministry of Sport and Tourism for exceptional achievements if the field of alpinism
2012 – nomination for the Travellery 2012 award given by the National Geographic Traveller Magazine, the Achievement of the Year category
2012 – the award of present-day Ministry of Sport and Tourism for achievements in the field of alpinism in 2012
2012 – the award of the Kolosy 2012 for the opening of a new route on Baffin Island, Canada
2008 – the Brytan of the Year award given by the wspinanie.pl portal for the solo opening of a new free climb on the Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka Wall in the Tatra Mountains in winter
2007 – the award of the Brytan climbing service for the ascents in the Tatra Mountains in 2006
2004 – the main Kolos 2003 award in the category of alpinism for the opening of a new route, Ostatni Krzyk Motyla (/Eng./ Butterfly’s Last Cry ), in Alaska.
2004 – nomination for the Piolet d'or award (Grenoble, France) each year honouring seven greatest achievements in the field of alpinism from all over the world; nomination for the opening of a new route, Ostatni Krzyk Motyla (/Eng./ Butterfly’s Last Cry), in Alaska in 2003.
2003- the award of present-day Ministry of Sport and Tourism for achievements in the field of alpinism in 2003
2003 – the first place at a sport climbing comp in Szczecin
2003- the medal for sport achievements in the field of alpinism received during the celebrations of the 100th anniversary of the Polish Mountaineering Association
2003 – the Mayor of Szczecin award for promoting the city in the world
2003 - the Kolosy award in the category of alpinism for the opening of a new route on the Mount Thor face, Baffin Island.
2002- 2nd place at the event of the National Cup in sport climbing series on the Ducal Castle in Szczecin
2001- 3rd place at the event of the National Cup in sport climbing series on the arch in the Summer Theatre in Szczecin
2001- The Mountain Film Festival in Lądek Zdrój, 1st place in the category of Polish Picture for the “Planeta Spisek” (/Eng./ “A Planet Called Treason” ) picture directed by Sławomir Ejsymont
2000- the award of present-day Ministry of Sport and Tourism for exceptional achievements if the field of alpinism
1999- Poznań, Poland- 1st place in the Western Poland Championship in sport climbing on an artificial wall
1998- Warsaw, Poland – Vice-Championship at the Central Poland Championship in sport climbing on an artificial wall
1997- the award of the Brytan magazine for opening a new route on the Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka wall during a solo winter climb
1996- the award of Polish Mountaineering Association for achievements and climbing activity in the Tatra Mountains

Source: Profile FB "Polish Annapurna IV Expedition 2015"

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Thu, 14 May 2015 09:40:31 +0000
Alps / Matterhorn https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/climbing-conditions-in-mountains/item/70-webcam-zermatt-matterhorn https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/climbing-conditions-in-mountains/item/70-webcam-zermatt-matterhorn Alps / Matterhorn

Below you have live webcam to Matterhorn.

 

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Webcams Tue, 06 May 2014 00:00:00 +0000
Breithorn - one of the easiest 4000 metre peaks in the Alps https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/64-breithorn-easy-4000-metre-peak-in-alps https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/64-breithorn-easy-4000-metre-peak-in-alps Breithorn - one of the easiest 4000 metre peaks in the Alps

If you go by normal route on Breithorn, then he could be one of the easiest 4000 metre peaks in the Alps. You can go to 3820 m by skilift. From there you have easy walk on glacier, and snow slope to summit. Very recommended to go there on skis.

The name Breithorn from German is: "broad peak/mountain". Breithorn (4164 m) is a mountain of the Pennine Alps, located on the border between Switzerland and Italy. It lies on the main chain of the Alps, approximately halfway between the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa and east of the Theodul Pass. Most of the massif is glaciated and includes several subsidiary peaks, all located east of the main summit: the Central Breithorn, the Eastern Breithorn, the Breithornzwillinge and the Roccia Nera.

Some My photos. There will be lot of pictures of Matterhorn. "Mat" dominates above Zermatt...:

If you start from Zermatt, then you will see him... ;)

Yee... The most amazing mountain in Alps. Wall in shadow is The North Face of Matterhorn

Breithorn and Kleine Matterhorn (on right)

{loadposition position-14}

Breithorn from Breithornpass, near of Kleine Matterhorn. Fot. Damian Granowski

Snow slope above Kleine Matterhorn

View from summit of Breithorn

View from summit of Breithorn

joomplu:52
 
joomplu:53
 
Panorama from peak of Breithorn
 
{youtube}nCp92ZH_Vkg{/youtube}

Matterhorn from Breithorn

Breithorn

{loadposition position-14}

On the left, Mont Blanc

joomplu:54

Once again Matterhorn

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Wed, 15 Apr 2015 00:00:00 +0000