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Contact to Damian Granowski - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Mon, 24 Jan 2022 03:36:08 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb Salluard Route 6a+ / Pointe Adolphe Rey, Mont Blanc du Tacul https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/128-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey-mont-blanc-du-tacul https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/128-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey-mont-blanc-du-tacul Salluard Route 6a+ / Pointe Adolphe Rey, Mont Blanc du Tacul

Salluard Route (6a+ 260m ) on Pointe Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc du Tacul massif) is nice multipitch route on good cracks and corners. But the place is impressive. A heavy recommended route for warm up and acclimatization. Granite is excellent here :). Also, you have here sun by almost all day.

Grade: 6a+

Lenght: 260 m, 8 pitches

Time: 3-4 h

Localization: Pointe Adolphe Rey / Mont Blanc du Tacul / Chamonix

Character: corners, cracks, slabs

First ascent: 1951, 6 September - Toni Busi and Franco Salluard

view-from-salluard-route.jpg

View from The route

Approach

You have two options:

From Aiguille du Midi (1,5h)

Descend to Col du Midi plateau (3670 m) and cross the glacier to Pointe Adolphe Rey.

mont-blanc-du-tacul.jpg

Approach from Refuge Torino

From Refuge Torino (1h)

From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and descend towards the obvious Pic Adolphe Rey rocky outcrop Prepare that later you must approach this same way to Torino (uphill) :-).

Route

1. pitch 4a, 30 m. Climb rotten rocks to a corner-crack and go to belay on the ledge

first-pitch-on-salluard-route.jpg

Tomek Reinfuss on first pitch - very nice crack :)

2. pitch 6a, 25 m. Go to the small overhang above the belay. This is the crux of the route and place is technical and physical, but quite ok.

tomasz-reinfuss-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey.jpg

Tomasz Reinfuss on the crux pitch

3. pitch 5c, 25 m. Climb a crack (and corners) on the left side of the ridge.

4. pitch 5b, 30m. Go to big groove and later go on a big ledge, where you will be below a big chimney.

5. pitch 5c, 35m Climb the chimney (nice cracks inside) and then go to the left to another corner. Pass belay and go to the left and climb the cracked slab above for 10 meters. You will find belay on a ledge.

6. pitch 5a, 35m go to a big ledge and climb cracks to belay - which is 5m from the left of the arete.

salluard-route-mont-blanc-du-tacul.jpg

Last pitch

7. pitch 5b, 30m. Go to corner system on the left (nice cracks) and direct to V-shaped col. The belay will be on a big ledge.

bartek-szeliga-on-salluard-route-pointe-adolphe-rey.jpg

Bartek Szeliga on last pitch

8. pitch 5c, 40m. Climb directly from the belay on the cracks and flakes. The last belay is on the summit ridge of the Pointe Adolphe Rey. Usually climbers descent from this point, but you can continue to the summit.

bartek-szeliga-on-salluard-route.jpg

Descent

Abseil to the base of the route. You have prepared fixed anchors.

Gear

Standard set for easy routes in Chamonix:

- some nuts

- Set of cams to (#3), double purple, green, red

- 12 quickdraws

- 60 double rope.

joomplu:422
The Salluard Route line
 
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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 06 Feb 2018 15:00:05 +0000
Aiguille du Midi / The Cosmiques Ridge https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/126-the-cosmiques-ridge-aiguille-du-midi-chamonix-mont-blanc https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/126-the-cosmiques-ridge-aiguille-du-midi-chamonix-mont-blanc Aiguille du Midi / The Cosmiques Ridge

The Cosmiques Ridge (in french Arête des Cosmiques) is one of the most classic climbs in Mont Blanc Massif. This ridge on the Aiguille du Midi need minimal approach and is easily accessible from the cable car. Give easy grade (french PD/PD+), nice views and you know why Cosmiques are so popular. This is also a good way for acclimatization for harder routes, and for a relative beginning climbers great alpine goal.

Grade: AD 4a (crux has 4c)
Length: 240-300 m. Elevation 3550 m / 3842 m
Time: 2-3 hours (half of the day with approach/descent by cable car on Aiguille du Midi. But on this route can be a big traffic)
Localization: Aiguille du Midi / Mont Blanc Massif / Chamonix (France)
Character: Ridge, traverses, slabs, couloirs
First ascent: 1911, 2 August - George and Maxwell Finched

views-from-aiguille-du-midi.jpg

Technical Information:

Difficulty rating: PD/PD+, 4a (4c crux)
Elevation min/max: 3550 m / 3842 m
Height difference: +300 m / -300 m
Difficulties height difference: 240 m

Arête des Cosmiques offers climbing on rock, ice, and snow. It is possible to do this route in every season. It is not difficult for climbers, but you must be prepared for mixed conditions which depend from the time of the year. You will descent to the glacier and climb up granite slabs & crack.

Area of Aiguille du Midi is known for a good place for acclimatization. Typically you take a cable car to the top (~3800 m), do some route and quickly go to Chamonix (~1000 m). That was our tactic for climbing on north face of Grandes Jorasses.

Cosmiques are very popular (especially in high season (from June to September) then be prepared for a lot of people on the ridge. A good option is to start early (first cable car). Also, be prepared if there is a strong wind.

arete-de-cosmiques-approach.jpg

Gear
• Crampons
• Ice axe (or two in winter)
• 60 m half rope
• Half a set of nuts (mostly cams to 0.75)
• 4 slings
• 4 quickdraws
• Abseil/belay device

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Approach

From Chamonix take a cable car to the top of Aiguille du Midi (ticket up/down cost ~60 euro…) and go to the ice tunnel. Descent the steep snow ridge and traverse below the South Face of the Midi (outstanding summer climbing in orange granite). Go near of the Simond Hut.

descent-from-aiguille-du-midi.jpg

Descending from Aiguille du Midi

The Cosmiques Ridge

The Ridge start on easy mixed terrain, which leads to a small summit. At this part of the climb, you will go on the right side of the “ridge”. Take direction to the first gendarme (~3731 m ), climb the inclined slabs (4b). Go on the ridge to the second subsidiary summit. Do a descending traverse (or abseil).

climbing-on-cosmique-ridge-aiguille-du-midi.jpg

View to crux of the route

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Next, go to the first tower and abseil 30 m (bolted belays). Move on the right on the base of the first tower. Climb a small chimney (4a) and go up to ridge (here go also the Cosmiques Couloir). On big ledge go right around the second tower.

damian-granowski-on-crux-cosmiques-ridge.jpg

Author on crux pitch. Photo Tomasz Klimczak

Before you are crux section. 5 meters of terrain 4c (slab with cracks). The slab is quite easy because you have drilled (sic!) holes for your front points of crampons. Traverse right above the slab, go to the narrow ledge. From there go to the big terrace and cross the ridge to NW face.

cosmique-ridge-chamonix-mont-blanc.jpg

Outstanding view!

Descent and go right to couloir chimney (2 pitches 3c and 4a).

the-cosmique-ridge-view.jpg

On the ridge go to the metal ladder and access to the terrace of Midi station and to cable car, back to Chamonix.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Mon, 06 Nov 2017 16:31:37 +0000