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List of all content - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Wed, 27 Oct 2021 19:21:44 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b - San Vito Lo Capo https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/95-l-abito-non-fa-il-monaco-6b-san-vito-lo-capo-sicilia https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/95-l-abito-non-fa-il-monaco-6b-san-vito-lo-capo-sicilia L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b - San Vito Lo Capo

L'abito non fa il Monaco 6b (6a obl.), 260 m is eight multi-pitch route on Pizzo Monaco in San Vito Lo Capo on Sicilia. The route is quite popular in this area. Pitches are bolted (S2, take 12 quickdraws) but for the last pitch maybe take some slings.

First Ascent - F. Calabrese, L. Cutietta, M. Oviglia, E. Pinotti

On L'abito non fa il Monaco you need 60 m double rope

Approach

labito non fa il monaco

Photo Gulliver.it

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5544

Pizzo Monaco

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5370

Start of the route

10 minutes. Here you have link to google maps.
GPS N38° 10'09,5'' E12° 45'07,0

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Pitches are graded:

6a+ (35 m) - nice vertical climbing
6b (15 m) - short crack and holes
6b (40 m) - long dihedral with tricky sequence

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5397

View from route

5c (45 m) - walls and ridges, move to the left

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5405

Małgorzata Jaworska on 5c pitch


5b (15 m) - short climbing to good ledge
6b (40 m) - overhang with good holds. Very nice pitch
5b (40 m) - Easy climb to large boulder

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5491

Big ledge below easy dihedral

4b (40 m) - Climb the easy dihedral. Then easy terrain to the summit of Pizzo Monaco.

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5509

Summit photo :-)

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Descent

labito non fa il monaco san vito lo capo 5515

Rappeling

Towards the east arete to a rappel station (almost 60 meters). From here go on a patch to the road.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Sat, 26 Sep 2015 17:25:40 +0000
The most Beautiful Peaks in the World - Gallery https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/93-the-most-beautiful-mountains-in-the-world https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/93-the-most-beautiful-mountains-in-the-world The most Beautiful Peaks in the World - Gallery

The earth has lot of spectacular mountains. Some of these peaks are famous, while others are not as well known. This list of 57 amazing peaks is quite nice. No mater that you're a mountaineer, or just traverel. You will find tall mountains here and mountains which more than make up for their smaller size in terms of their unique geometry.

Even if you don’t have the chance to scale a mountain in the wilderness though, you can still look up at the peaks and admire them and find inspiration

The list of this most beautiful mountains is open, and probably will grown :-). Ordering is random. If you want see more, then click to thumbnails or click here: Gallery: The Most Beautiful Mountains in the World.

{joomplucat:12 limit=60|columns=3|ordering=random}

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Fri, 25 Sep 2015 16:13:07 +0000
How to choose best hiking, mountaineering shoes? Spring, summer, autumn and winter https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/91-how-to-choose-best-hiking-mountaineering-shoes-spring-summer-autumn-and-winter https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/91-how-to-choose-best-hiking-mountaineering-shoes-spring-summer-autumn-and-winter How to choose best hiking, mountaineering shoes? Spring, summer, autumn and winter

Mountain boots are one of the most important - and often most expensive - pieces of equipment, so carefully think about them. If they are mismatched, too hot or too cold, your climbing will lose a lot for pleasure :-).

Oryginal article (in Polish) you will find here: Jakie buty wybrać w góry? Od trekkingu po alpinizm.

Before reading the text, ask yourself a few questions:

Do you need shoes for mountain hiking in the small Mountains, or maybe the alpine type of mountain? At stake only hiking in the summer, do you take into account the winter?

In the past climber/hikers usually have shoes for everything, but currently on the market will find dozens of types of shoes for special purpose. They will be climbing shoes for a day, approach shoes, boots for multi-climbing, etc. Fortunately, you can also find universal designs that make in many areas, summer, and winter. Here we go then.
I will begin by discussing the kinds of shoes intended for summer and winter. In the end, you will find a link to an article with tips for buyers typical mountain boots.


What kind of shoes to the mountains in the summer?

If you do not walk in difficult terrain (a lot of stones/boulders), but you adjust to the mild, day trips into (not) alpine mountains, but just hiking, then perhaps a better (and certainly cheaper) option will be for you shoes with softer soles, providing better grip than shoes with hard (vibram) soles. But if you think about something more then read on;).

Approach shoes

The times when mountain shoes were heavy are gone. Currently we recommend comfortable, lightweight, as rigid shoes with rubber tips. These shoes will be suitable for approach, landing and easy climbing (for example: ridges, easy climbing routes). Very good shoes in this area are: adidas Terrex Solo, or adidas Terrex Scope. This kind of shoes must be comfortable. Approach shoes tend to have a harder sole than typical city shoes and usually are better in difficult mountain terrain.

Approach shoes for mountaineers

Of course, when we walk through the wet grass, snow shoes so get wet. The point is not that they are not waterproof, but rather water gets into the top of the shoe.

buty salewa mountain trainer gtx

Approach shoe Salewa Mountain Trainer. A typical shoe for approach and via Ferrata

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When I use these mountaineering shoes?

During the one-several-day tours in spring, summer and autumn. I'm going as far as to lightly (10-12 kilograms). They usually approach the climbing routes, day trips, mountaineering, approach the rocks and, of course, on a daily basis in the city.. Perfect for a multi-day hiking trip. Also good factor is the temperature. Where would be boiling hot, and the area would not be suitable on the sandals that shoes.

polbuty aku rock lite 2 gtx

Boots Aku Rock Solid II gtx, good for summer hiking (not only in mountains)

For example - Aku shoes Rock Lite II GTX is a pretty good model. I use them for a few years and appreciate them. Each company has its own "best seller". Check them in the shop and see if you do not feel chafing heels.

Rather, ankle boots would decide on the long trekkings in difficult terrain and with a heavy backpack. This where we have to go outside routes, often in mud, gravel, on scree, moraines glaciers. In short, where 80% of the readers of this article will not go :-). However, if you're in the minority and you are natural born hiker then ankle boots are for you ;).

but do biegow gorskich salewa speed ascent

Model speed SALEWA mountain ascent, for speed hiking in mountains

But the "speed hiking" - Salewa Speed Ascent. Speed hiking in the assumption discipline, during which a given route overcome rapid march. For this, we have with each other trekking poles and actively use them. Generally they are light and flexible shoes that allow you to easily and conveniently travel a given route.

Running shoes in the mountains

At this point, I have no practical experience. Something I read on the internet / press, so I would like this issue only roughly closer. Think of it all as a theory, and look for more specific information on other sites or among friends.

Definitely lightweight shoes (max 350 grams) with a good tread on the sole. The shoes designed for mountain gear maneuverability is important. You will probably want them at the same time run / walk tens of kilometers. Add to that more often wet conditions, mud, sand, etc., and you get a lot of factors that will be happy to massacre your feet. Companies recommendable when mountain running is available: Solomon LaSportiva, The North Face.

 

the north face ultra mt trail

Trail shoe The North Face Ultra MT. Description Manufacturer: top boots and cross trail. They withstand the harshest conditions. They provide unmatched traction and control with the new Vibram sole Megagrip. A special system of strategically placed upper layers increases support for the arch, protects fingers through tightly woven reticulum and breathability thanks to the Ultra Airmesh material. ESS provides uniform distribution of energy during the forefoot strikes the ground. Megagrip Vibram outsole provides unsurpassed traction and control.

The tread on the sole keep well in the mud, wet stones, sand, etc .. On the market there are models with varying degrees of "hardness". You will find the shoes quite stiff, supportive muscles of our legs during a long run. On the other side, you will find the so-called models. Natural run. Quite soft and requiring the runner a habit.

Gore-Tex? Probably not needed. During the off-road gear, you ran across the grass, mud, jump jets (or pass). In most cases, water enters from the top and your concern will be how to pour the water out of boots.

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Best trekking shoes?

Immediately warn that in the summer do not go in these boots after the Beskidy Tatras. Currently, my set of footwear is approach shoes, two pairs of shoes high altitude (single and dual layer) and skitour shoes for ski touring (the Tatras, the Alps and Beskidy).

Boots do not protect against internal injuries hocks, but rather against mechanical damage.

Trekking shoes Ankle definitely recommend for trips, expeditions for people who are going eg. In Georgia and want to go on Kazbek, but they will also walk the surrounding mountains below the snow line. So we need to have sturdy shoes, on relatively stiff soles which will attach crampons basket in case. On the other hand shoe as light and allows wandering more easily (and warmer) area.

I must admit that these shoes are pretty universal. They are as light and strong. We go out in them for simple tops even in the winter (the possibility buckles carcinomas). If you are suitable for winter hiking in the Beskidy Mountains and the Tatra Mountains. In conclusion, it may be beneficial to purchase for people who need a versatile shoe as both the summer and - to the extent easy - winter. I am thinking of easy trekking peaks. Winter climbing is rather difficult.

Trekking shoes sometimes in one day encounter a series of conditions: rain, mud, snow, ice, gravel, wet grass, scree, etc. They have to be robust. At stake here shoe leather or leather-cloth duo.

The Classical leather shoe is characterized in that it is the relatively high and rigid uppers your ankles, solid lacing system, a high language.

 

aku tribute but trekkingowy jak wybrac

Aku Tribute GTX is a classic shoe leather ankle. Description manufacturer: trekking boots made entirely of leather, reinforced GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort - have a high resistance to mechanical damage. Equipped with a stable and well damped Vibram sole, through which shoes retain grip on variable surfaces. Perfectly suited to the mountainous terrain moderate, they cope even in winter conditions - with the exception of very low temperatures, which are not insulated additionally.

Technological advances have meant that appeared on the market shoe leather and fabric. Compared to the leather are lighter, more comfortable, dry quickly and are less expensive. Often, however, they will be less durable. Probably it will be less water resistance (unless you have an inner layer of Goretex).

tnf s3k gtx

The North Face shoes S3K GTX, which is another shoe for a piece of Summit Series family - a pair of size 42 weighs 1164 grams. Manufacturer Description: In his name, as was the case presented in recent years S4K, or S6K (see test) were coded indication as to the amount and thus the conditions for which it was designed. This time, we are dealing with a model for climbing the peaks height of about 3,000 meters (3K). It uses a waterproof and breathable Gore-Tex membrane, known from the above mentioned models insert Northotic Pro +, OrthoLite lining and TPU Cradle stabilization technology. Sole Vibram is harder in and around the toes. The so-called. "Climbing Zone" allows some stand on small steps. Suitable finish around the heel turn allows the installation of semi-automatic crampons.

Ok, desirable features such shoe mountain is:

Sole your ankles.
High sewn into + is ideal if the shoe is connected to prevent ingress of water.
Rubber rant, increases water resistance and durability.
Deep lacing and locking system shoelaces.

Best mountain climbing shoes?

Here everything depends on the climbing route. If you intend to go on 10 exhaust path that is a lot of easy terrain and we have a store, it's best to take comfortable shoes, slippers may be that we use on the panel. Especially when most of the time we went to another. If you are going to go the difficult way for us, the shoes should be tighter, but without exaggeration. Ideally suited in the mountains laced boots, which also good "sit" in features and other strange formations where we katowałyby shoes asymmetrical foot.

buty wspinaczkowe evolv astroman

Sample (Evolv Astroman designed by Peter Croft) shoes dedicated to all-day climbing in the mountains. Lace, leather, holes for better air circulation. But with a comfortable lining material. In addition, what it is now a rather rare in our European market, but has a high upper to protect the ankle. This is to protect the interest of features that in the United States dominate.

What kind of mountain boots for winter?

In fact, one of the most important pieces of equipment. Definitely better not save (too much) on shoes, which are typically a big expense. The obligation to remember the truism that shoes should be above all comfortable (no chafing heels, etc.) And warm (under the circumstances). Remember that the best person to try on the model and better cautiously buys on the Internet.

Of course, everything depends on what activities need shoes.

To hiking in the mountains where we walk in the mountains glacial type will suffice duo leather shoes or leather-synthetic fabric + Goretex. Ideally, if they have to fasten the automatic crampons and weigh so to 1.2-1.4 kilograms (pair). In the end, however, can be ankle boots, which will attach crampons strip - for easier trips, eg. Winter in the Alps. However, remember that appetite grows with eating, so you may want to invest immediately in the shoes of the semi-automatic crampons.

buty wysokogorskie scarpa rebel opis

Alpine boots Scarpa Rebel. Leather and synthetic materials. The rubber rim and fasten the semi-automatic crampons

Hiking on skis, which are intended ski-tour boots, ski boots or modified with moving parts to long march. Skituring is a great alternative to walking in winter in the mountains. Because up approach to ski comfortably and down go down. We are much faster and be less tired. I sincerely recommend you try.

Day of winter climbing to be enough leather (with elements of artificial fabrics) shoes, but allow automatic crampons - sole in them should be very stiff. A pair of these shoes as best he weighs up to 2 kg (size 42). But it must be sustainable, because climbing is quite a big challenge for our equipment.

Boots The North Face Verto S6K Glacier GTX made for mountaineering, climbing mixt and ice. Here are their description and test.

meind piz palu lady gtx

Single-layer boots - the automatic crampons - Piz Palu Meindl Lady GTX.

To dry tooling on easy roads, an average of tough (vertical, slightly overhanging), which is generally M7 + will suffice us monolayer shoes with buckles on automatic crampons. Strong competitors will be able to do them even greater number. I witnessed how difficult fell as M10 +, so, in general, it all depends on the store :).

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Dry tooling to the difficult but invented a special fruit boots that resemble some climbing boots with crampons bolted. It is a very specialized shoes that I recommend to the road above the M7 +. As the Polish market is very small, and even the price of new fruit boots hovered around 200 dollars and more in line with the "Pole can do" a lot of people did himself fruit boots or commissioned it to specialists. I encourage you to read this text: fruit boots - test- how to do (in polish).

fruit boots in action. Photo. Marcin Nowogródzki

Mountain climbing for several days now we will need more specialized shoes. It is assumed that it will be used a few days in a row without the possibility of drying and, therefore, should have internal pull-out gaiters. The most modern models have a gaiter, which is an additional protection - no need then also wear stuptuts and are more resistant to water. Ideally, if the couple will weigh in the range of 2-2,2 kilograms (size 42).

Historically, this segment dominated by a plastic shell with pull-out boots. Now, however, these shoes are a mix of plastic material, leather and, if necessary. Plastic. Although there are still an outstanding plastic shell, so if you have limited financial resources, healthy knees, and we want to - very - Loic alpine terrain, you possibly can think of a shell.

The North Face Verto S6K Extreme is dedicated to multi-boot climbing and mountaineering. Getra zippered prevented from falling snow (and some isolates). This shoe has an internal, removable gaiter. Their longer description and outdoor review can be found here

For ambitious mountaineering expeditions (7000 m above sea level, or winter expeditions to the mountains 4000-7000 m above sea level) we need special shoes. They are very well insulated, they have drawn boots and outer over both (to the knee, sometimes even insulated foam).

la sportiva olympus mons

Shoes La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo dedicated at an altitude of approx. 8000 meters. A characteristic feature of the appearance is very high Getra to prevent the ingress of snow and insulation from the cold. Warming is there really a lot. Botek interior can be removed and walk in it in a tent.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Wed, 23 Sep 2015 07:29:00 +0000
Marmot Never Winter sleeping bag - outdoor review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/90-marmot-never-winter-sleeping-bag-outdoor-review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/90-marmot-never-winter-sleeping-bag-outdoor-review Marmot Never Winter sleeping bag - outdoor review

At the beginning of May, I received for testing a Marmot down sleeping bag Never Winter Long. This sleeping bag is Anatomically. Filled with duck down 650 CUI. It is dedicated to a temperature of 3.1 / -2.2 / -18 ° C.

It spent a few nights in a tent in Sokoły, some also were used on the go. However, this is still not enough so I could write about it specifically, so hence a form of "first impressions". The manufacturer's description below, and finally I put my observations.

Product details

spiwor marmot never winter long

The Never Winter is an ideal summer bag for camping and river trips, but it also has enough down insulation to keep you warm when frost is in the air. Updated with our Down Defender treatment offering an extra level of moisture protection for sleeping bags exposed to wet environments.

Feature List

Certified 650 Fill Power Down

Down Defender to Improve Water-Resistance in Wet Conditions

EN Tested

Nautilus 5-Baffle Hood

Down-filled Collar with Easy Access Draw Cord

Heat Bump Draft Tube

Classic Trapezoidal Foot Box

"Feely" Draw Cords

Ground-Level Side Seams

Hood Draw Cord

Locking Zippers

Stash Pocket

Stretch Tricot Baffles

Stuff and Storage Sack Included

Two Hang Loops

Two Way Zipper Sliders

Velcro®-free Face Muff

Zipper Guards

Main Materials

100% Nylon Ripstop AC 1.3 oz/yd, 100% Nylon WR 1.4 oz/yd

Lining Material

100% Nylon Plain Weave WR 1.3 oz/yd

Insulation Material

650 Fill Power Down

Fill Weight

12oz (340g)

Bag Loft

4

Bag Temperature F

30° F

Bag Temperature C

-1° C

EN Rating

Comfort: 37.6°F / 3.1°C | Lower Limit: 28°F / -2.2°C | Extreme: -0.4°F / -18.0°C

Interior Length

85in (216cm)

Bag Dimensions (Shoulder x Hip x Foot)

63in (160cm) x 57in (145cm) x 41in (104cm)

Bag Zipper position

LZ, RZ

Weight

2lbs 0oz (830g)


spiwor marmot never winter long

 

First impressions

After I take sleeping bag out of the box immediately feel the novelty it ... quite literally. To this day, after several nights of use yet still I feel a peculiar smell. We'll see when it disappears. Never Winter is produced in a nice green color to the eye.

The Sleeping bag comes with a large mesh bag storage, and compression sack allowing his pack to smaller dimensions.

spiwor marmot never winter long

Never Winter packaged in a compression sack. Fig. Damian Granowski

Construction

Long sleeping bag version is quite extensive, providing comfortable accommodation and a pretty good body position in a sleeping bag.
Marmot Never Winter has a hood with a drawstring, which is located outside the sleeping bag. Just reach out to the side and you can adjust it. It is quite comfortable, and the string does not bother while sleeping. In my previous sleeping bags cord, he was on the edge of the hood and at night often landed me somewhere on the face. Generally, simple and easy.

Sleeping bag has a zipper YKK, which moves quite smoothly. Is protected against cold strip. Additionally, in the middle we have a small pocket for cell zipped.

spiwor marmot never winter long

I miss him inside strip, around the neck, which would prevent heat loss. In all this is a minor detail, and certainly it would increase thermal comfort on cold nights.

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Temperature range

The manufacturer will provide a range of temperatures 3.1 / -2.2 / -18 ° C. What is interesting on a sleeping bag are added ranges for sex - and so 3.1 is more comfortable for women, and -2.2 is for men. It is known that the last value rather has little meaning. For typical users assume that the sleeping bag will keep comfortable at temperatures 0-3 ° C and higher. It seems to me that the lowest temperature at which it slept is 5 ° C and thermal comfort was fully sufficient (peaceful night's sleep).

spiwor marmot never winter long

The technology uses a sleeping bag Down Defender. Below some information from the manufacturer:

Marmot Down Defender is a way to protect clothing of down. It is a powder coated respondent water, down-filled garments providing protection from moisture. This prevents caking powder to clump and high ratio of heat loss to the ground during contact with water, thereby increasing the ability to maintain warmth and comfort.

Features Down Defender:
It remains dry 10 times longer than down without a protective coating
Retains 150% higher heat-to-weight ratio in the wet conditions than a normal down
It dries 30% faster than down without a protective coating
The technology approved by Bluesign

How does it work?
Coating covers the various clusters of down feathers DWR water-repellent finish at the molecular level. The coating is applied during the cleaning process down. The finish is very durable, providing resistance to humidity for more than 20 washes. In addition, the coating increases the integrity of fluff, durability and longevity of its clusters.

spiwor never winter long marmot

In summary, in my Marmot Never Winter is recommendable sleeping bag for people who want to have Anatomically (spring, summer and autumn) sleeping bag for a reasonable price, which will be checked in various conditions and terrain. Camping, hostels, camping in a tent (or outdoors), traveling situations in which the check good.

If as use something changed this will add appropriate annotations to the text.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Wed, 23 Sep 2015 05:22:48 +0000
2 nice routes from Tatra mountains https://winterclimb.com/video/item/89-metallica-pochylego-platne https://winterclimb.com/video/item/89-metallica-pochylego-platne 2 nice routes from Tatra mountains

Here you have some nice climbing movies from Tatra Mountains: From Metallica IX/IX+ on Mnich and Pochylego Platne VIII- on Kežmarský štít.

{vimeo}86005450{/vimeo}

{youtube}RA2ONSxo1QE{/youtube}

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Tue, 15 Sep 2015 05:37:26 +0000
Prayers in the Wind https://winterclimb.com/video/item/88-prayers-in-the-wind https://winterclimb.com/video/item/88-prayers-in-the-wind Prayers in the Wind

Jason Kruk, Paul McSorley and Joshua Lavigne travel to the Indian Himalayas to climb a new route on the imposing, 1500 metre north face of Thalay Sagar. Amidst the sacred waters of the Ganges and towering peaks of icy granite they find a peace that transcends the chaos of their lives. The senses are swept clean and attune to the prayers in the wind.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Fri, 11 Sep 2015 13:56:38 +0000
To Climb An Iceberg in 4K https://winterclimb.com/video/item/87-klemen-premrl-climbing-iceberg https://winterclimb.com/video/item/87-klemen-premrl-climbing-iceberg To Climb An Iceberg in 4K

This Summer Klemen Premrl and Aljaz Anderle go to Greenland to climb icebergs. Watch this :-)

{youtube}0kBjb1yfabI{/youtube}

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Tue, 25 Aug 2015 18:16:38 +0000
100 Best Mountaineering Books ever written https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/86-best-mountaineering-books-ever-written https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/86-best-mountaineering-books-ever-written 100 Best Mountaineering Books ever written

Here you have list of best mountaineering books ever written. You will find here books from alpinists, climbers, himalaists

Arlene Blum, Annapurna: A Woman's Place

Peter Boardman, Sacred Summits

Peter Boardman, The Shining Mountain

Bonatti Walter, On The Heights

Walter Bonatti, The Mountains of My Life

Chris Bonington, Annapurna South Face

Jim Curran, K2: Triumph and Tragedy

Anatoli Boukreev, The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest

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Herman Buhl, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage

Wade Davis, Into the Silence: The Great War, Mallory and the Conquest of Everest

Kurt Diemberger, Summits and Secrets

Heinrich Harrer, The White Spider

Heinrich Harrer, Seven Years in Tibet

Dougal Haston, The Philosophy Of Risk

Bernadette McDonaldFreedom Climbers

Maurice Herzog, Annapurna (best selling Mountaineering book of all time)

Edmund Hillary, View From The Summit

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Edmund Hillary, High Adventure: The True Story of the First Ascent of Everest

Tom Hornbein, Everest: The West Ridge

Charles Houston and Robert Bates, K2: The Savage Mountain

Steve House, Beyond the Mountain

Jon Krakauer, Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster

Jerzy Kukuczka, My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks

Reinhold Messner, All Fourteen Eight-Thousanders (also photo book)

Reinhold Messner, The Crystal Horizon

Reinhold Messner, Everest Expedition To The Ultimate

Reinhold Messner, Solo Nanga Parbat

Reinhold Messner, The Naked Mountain

Gaston Rébuffat, Starlight and Storm

David Roberts, The Mountain of My Fear

Eric Shipton, Blank on the Map

Eric Shipton, Nanda Devi

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Joe Simpson, Touching the Void

Boardman Tasker, Everest The Cruel Way

Lionel Terray, Conquistadors of the Useless

Edward Whymper, Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860-69

Stephen Venables, Everest Summit of Achievement

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Sun, 19 Jul 2015 20:02:31 +0000
Michi Wohlleben - Who is Who? https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/85-michi-wohlleben-interview-who-is-who https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/85-michi-wohlleben-interview-who-is-who Michi Wohlleben - Who is Who?

Michael Wohlleben is professional alpinist. His hardest ascents are: Eiger Northface Teamspeed Ascent (5h10min), First Winter nonstop Trilogy of the Tre Cime Northfaces (15h42min), First Ascent Pray for Power M14, First free ascents of Antro.po.cene (Taghia 500m, 8a), Gehts noch Doc (Blankenstein 250m, 8a), Hystrix (Sicilia 220m, 8a), Ramadan 8b onsight and 3x8c redpoint.

Date of birth and how long you climb?

05.10.1990. 16 years of climbing

Best OS in dry-tooling and ice?

Onsight I don't remember. Flash Gotham City M12+ in Eptingen. Ice, I think it's not really gradable I hear a lot about WI7... which would have been WI6 10 years ago. Maybe The real Big Drip was quite difficult to onsight.

joomplu:65
 
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Best RP on dry-tooling and ice?

Pray for Power D14. I never climbed a ice pitch twice because I sit in the rope...

Which Ice tools and crampons?

Nomics/Quark. Dart, Dartwin.

Sponsors?

Adidas, Primaloft, Scarpa, Petzl, Julbo Eyewear, Würth, Knott, Suunto

The best place on competitions and climbing meetings?

Never climbed competitions.

How you start climbing with Ice-tools? First you climbed in summer or winter?

I started on an easy icefall. But I first climbed some years in rock and later with 12 years my friend took me to the icefall.

joomplu:69
 
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Some people climb in winter, because it is for them some alternative from climbing indoors, others just like it. What's your favorite kind of climbing? What keeps you at it?

I'm noticing more and more that I like the discipline I do at a specific time on which I concentrate, motivates me a lot. Like last year I was 6 weeks only sportclimbing with an 8b osnight in the end. And I was totally psyched on it. Coming from a crazy winter with alpinism like the first Three Cime north faces winter enchainement, I couldn't first imagine going sport climbing but then I loved it. So I can't say what is my favourite. But generelly I'm more a winter person, like it cold a little bit suffering.

What is most important to you in winter climbing? The desire for adventure, difficulties, winter climate, or perhaps fame and women ;-)?

It suites me good, I like to suffer, I like the adventure. And I think in winter tactics are even more important then in summer and I'm a tactic player.

Of course, we can not escape from a series of questions like "Most", What is your favorite dry-tooling area? What is it that you want to go back?

Although there are not the hardest routes, Ueschinen I really like a lot it has tons of ice on the routes.

joomplu:72
 
In Dolomites (Tre Cime Trilogy). Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Apart from the money, which peak you would most go climb? What is it in itself?

G4

The most beautiful route which you do? What contributed to the fact that deserves to be called?

Many...I like my first ascent Pray for Power D14 or Optimist 1300m, M6 no bolts two days alpine style at Schneefernerkopf.

joomplu:71
 
On Ironman M14. Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Climbing equipment is evolving all the time, skills of climbers also grow. How do you think, where will go mixt climbing?

I don't know... definetly drytooling developed a little bit boring, I honestly have to say, that I enjoy it more climbing a vertical M7 then climbing a route like Ironman ones you have the power on the tools it doesn't matter if you do 20 or 100 moves... so I don't know where it goes. Maybe free onsight climbing routes like Harlin Direttissima or Manitua on Grandes Jorasses... we will see.

Favorite climbing gear, which would you recommend to anyone?

In winter I love my Primaloft Jacket it's still warm even if it's wet. Then I really like the new 3layer material from Adidas in the Terrex line. I love my Scirocco although it's sooo orange :-), for sure my Rebell Ultras from Scarpa and I always have one of my Julbo glasses with me.

Apparently, outside climbing, there are other hobbies... What do you like doing in your free time, when not climbing? (answer "I read climbing websites" is not correct )

Hm... My family and paragliding

joomplu:66
 
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

The most difficult mountain route, which you ascent? What factors made ​​up for the difficulties? You encourage, or reborn to repeat it?

The trilogy of the three north faces of the Three Cimes in winter is a really big adventure.

What do you think is the best advice for beginners (and not only) winter climbers?

Take a lot of time. And take it easy. Never think in months for improving thinking in years is better. More fun less pressure.

Winter is already coming to an end. You will throw your gear into the closet and get back to the rocks? Or you Can not give up and you'll be somewhere else to look for the rocking?

This year I won't rock climb so much. More alpinism...

joomplu:73
 
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Thanks for Interview :-)

Michi website

Gallery of photos

Other interviews from series "Who is who?"

Ramon Marin

Raphael Slawinski

Angelika Rainer

 

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Thu, 23 Jul 2015 08:00:00 +0000
3 nice, short climbing movies https://winterclimb.com/video/item/84-3-nice-short-climbing-movies https://winterclimb.com/video/item/84-3-nice-short-climbing-movies 3 nice, short climbing movies

On last two weeks, there were 3 nice movies about mixed climbing and alpine climbing. If you want to see mixed climbing in Scotland, Switzerland and France the go ahead ;).

Winter Layering - Mixed Climbing in Switzerland

Kandersteg in Switzerland has long been a mecca for alpine climbers. In 2015 Rab athlete Jeff Mercier made an incredible link up of three classic mixed routes - in a single day. He did Flying Circus (M10, WI6), Mach 3 (M10, WI5) i Ritter der Kokosnuss (M12, WI5)

{vimeo}142249153{/vimeo}

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Artists on Grandes Jorasses

Autumn 2014. North face of Grandes Jorasses. Julien Désécures and Sébastien Bohin set off to repeat the Couzy-Desmaison route. The two climbers were revisiting this mythical line in an aesthetically pleasing and technically advanced style: mixed climbing on ice sheets… A beautiful and impressive first!

{youtube}Xn5aNFkhHNs{/youtube}

All Roads Lead to Scotland

Opposites attract. There isn’t a more appropriate statement to describe the unlikely yet formidable climbing partnership that is Nick Bullock and Tim Neill. They met on the mountains of Scotland in winter, and despite walking their own paths in the mountaineering world they are both drawn inexorably back there each winter. The fickle conditions that define Scottish winter climbing frequently lead to frustration, but the prospect of discovering an obscure gem presents an irresistible allure to them both.

{youtube}v3orlEebW84{/youtube}

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Mon, 26 Oct 2015 07:43:00 +0000