Notice: Undefined offset: 1 in /home/damgran/domains/winterclimb.com/public_html/plugins/system/k2/k2.php on line 702
List of all content - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Mon, 06 Dec 2021 11:32:15 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb The North Face Verto Glacier GTX S6K - hard outdoor review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/59-shoes-tnf-verto-glacier-s6k-gtx https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/59-shoes-tnf-verto-glacier-s6k-gtx The North Face Verto Glacier GTX S6K - hard outdoor review

In winter season 2013/14 I had the opportunity to test The North Face Verto Glacier GTX S6K. Verto S6K model was released in the winter season 2012/2013 and you can tell that it is "older brother" Verto S4K GTX model, dedicated to a height of 6000 meters above sea level row (S4K was at about 4000 meters). TNF company produces shoes in this category just only a few years so I was curious to see how Verto S6K prove themselves.

Under this link you will find a description of the manufacturer.

 

Ultimately, I was going to wear shoes in the spring in the Alps. Life and the weather, however, verified the plans. Finally ended up at several climbing days in Tatras. Many of this climbs had an alpine character - large (as in terms of the Tatra) wall, under which you have to approach a few hours:-). In any case, I can say that it was a real test, not a description of the "first impressions/outdoor review".

Immediately throws himself into the eyes of an aesthetic and interesting look, referring to the model S4K. Definitely shoes blend well with the other elements of clothing.

The positive aspect is the weight of shoes, oscillating around 1800 grams for the pair (size 42). My weighed 950 grams one (size 44). Interestingly between the left and right shoe was ~ 20 grams difference.

The shoes are light, yet rigid sole is sufficient for automatic crampons. Speaking of sole, it is made of Wibram and has a deep tread. Both on dry and wet rock is well:-). A definite plus is the "climbing zone" on the back of the front of the shoe. So we have more confidence when climbing in rocky terrain, without crampons.

 

Vibram sole. Photo. dg

Shoes, of course, allow plugging automatic crampons. I have used them automatic BD Cyborg crampons. Front of the shoe is slightly raised, making the crampons frotn point were slightly raised. However, this did not affect in any way the comfort of climbing in the ice and mixt.

 

Verto S6K with BD Cyborg crampons. Photo. dg

 

Sam toe is quite high, so knocking degrees (without crampons) is quite comfortable. Photo. dg

Over sole shoes are surrounded by a plastic rim that prevents mechanical damage. Front of the shoe itself is reinforced synthetic leather.

The interior lining of the shoe is comfortable, with a Gore-Tex material, providing waterproofing and breathability.

Polyurethane collar. Photo. dg

At the top of the shoe's is collar to protect from snow. It is worth noting that the solution (as well as others), it will be a weak check in deep, loose snow on the approaches and descents. However, gaiters are sometimes better:-).

 

Lacing system. Photo. dg

Lacing system. Phot. dg

Lacing system allows tight lacing shoes feet.

Below Verto shoe manufacturing process. Just film a model S4K, but the production process S6K should not vary much.

Comfort

Absolute priority in terms of shoes - any kind. I'm the owner of a relatively narrow feet and shoes which I used earlier, were the products Scarpa and La Sportiva. I was afraid that S6K because of American origin, will be dedicated for wider feet.

My doubts dispelled the first fitting in the store. Shoes in my size were well matched and did not have the elements that cause discomfort. Of course, the first trip was to prove crucial. Fortunately, the shoes do not cause any irritation and the walking was comfortable. After hundreds of kilometers have not changed my opinion;). It is worth noting that these were kilometers with a backpack full of gear, which is typically ~ 5-10 kg.

 

The heel of the system Cradle . After a year of use, I have not noticed any change in the rate of depreciation of the heel and on the approaches. Photo. dg

During the XI Memorial Bartek Olszanski, I found myself on skis go over to the Slaski Dom in Wielicka Valley. I decided to put into practice (somewhat forgotten) patent shoes attaches to ski bindings Silveretta 404. After two hours, but the approaches were sore heel. It is no wonder, however, the movement of the foot in ski-tour is completely different and heel works in a way that the designers did not anticipate. Last but not least – ride on skis after it was interesting:-).

{loadposition position-14}

Climbing

This is what Tiggers like best. Ice, Tatra pot, mountaineering is definitely elements Verto S6K.

In ice they are really well. Are relatively soft, so we can freely operate feet, on the other hand lacing system holds the foot firmly.

 

 

The author Bratyslawski Lod. Photo. Bartłomiej Szeliga

They are not dedicated to hard drytooling;), although I do in them M8.

But in the Tatras rock and frozen grass have quite an impressive mileage. As in ice.

Saying, "How is winter, it must be cold," does not refer to climbing in the Verto S6K. Little they have risen and climbed under different conditions.

Disadvantages

After a few excursions into the Tatra Mountains noticed that the silver coating on the front of the shoe has a tendency to scratch when crampons teeth hit them. This does not affect the strength of the shoe, only aesthetic issues. Manufacturer did not notice the shortcomings in the testing phase?

 

Here I must add that appeared on the market last winter, a new model of TNF Verto Extreme S6K, which is an improved model Verto S6K. Cover the shoe is more armored, but additionally has inner boot. In general, these are the shoes already for longer climbing in difficult conditions. One shoe weighs ~ 1010 grams, which is not bad:-)

Shoes TNF Extreme S6K. Fig. thealpinestart.com

A Summary

Verto S6K a great debut in the segment of TNF's shoes high-altitude mountaineering. Very comfortable during long marches and climbing. Warm to the ranks. Climbers who preffers style light & fast should be happy with this choice.

I feel like I still have a lot of miles in them will go:-).

Finally, a video describing the Verto S6K, found on the network:

 {youtube}Zhq-i_ARKCc{/youtube}

Oryginal text was in polish (on drytooling.com.pl).

More photos on gallery (drytooling.com.pl).

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Sat, 11 Apr 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Eiger west face on skis... almost https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/58-eiger-ascent-descenty-by-west-face https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/58-eiger-ascent-descenty-by-west-face Eiger on skis

Eiger... One of most famous peaks in Alps. North Face of Eiger is 1800 meters high.  Heckmair Route on this face is iconic. But Eiger has also easier routes. On west face you will find route to peak. In good conditions you can go there on skis. Here is some photos from our trip. On summit of Eiger we have been 19 march 2015.

Start: Grindenwald (1030 m) or Kleine Scheidegg (2061 m  or Eigergletscher 2320 m) if you go there by train. Difficulties starts at 2650m

Top: Eiger (3970 m)

It can be done in one day, if you use train or if you are very strong ;)

Slope: 40°/1300m (45°/400m).

Difficulties: AD (French grade)

Commitment grade: IV
Quality of in-place protection: P3
Toponeige technical grade: 5.2
Ski exposure grade: E4
Labande descent grade: S5
Labande global grade: TD
Suitable also to snowboarding: yes
 
Recommended equipment: Ice axe (better 2), crampons, helmet

Eiger North Face. 1800 m... Photo: Damian Granowski

Heckmair Route :-). Photo: Damian Granowski

Almost on Eigergletscher station. Photo: Damian Granowski

Our ascent/descent line on west face of Eiger. Normal Route to Eiger go on West Flank & West Ridge (AD (G4) with III- UIAA. On this photo is good view. Photo: Damian Granowski

Approach couloir with scary serac. Photo: Damian Granowski

Our Bivuoac on 2600 m. On evening we resigned from approach by skis, because two guys who descent from peak, not recommended go by skis. Photo: Damian Granowski

Serac. Photo: Damian Granowski

Tadek Grzegorzewski at snow field below serac. Photo: Damian Granowski

Nice views. Photo: Damian Granowski

French, very quick, guys. Photo: Damian Granowski

Eiger in eye :-). Photo: Tadeusz Grzegorzewski

Conditions for descent by skis are ideal by about 14-15 am, when sun melted some snow. On mornig snow is hard firn. Photo: Damian Granowski

Swiss guide on West ridge. Photo: Damian Granowski

{loadposition position-14}

Close to peak of Eiger. Photo: Damian Granowski

Panorama from peak (Click to enlarge). Photo: Damian Granowski

Another panorama from peak (Click to enlarge). Photo: Damian Granowski

 

French skiers go from the top of Eiger. Photo: Damian Granowski

Descent from Eiger. Photo: Damian Granowski

Once again Mordwand. Photo: Damian Granowski

View from Kleine Scheidegg (Click to enlarge). Photo: Damian Granowski

"Ski patch" to Girndenwald ;). Photo: Damian Granowski

Some info about Eiger (in polish).

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Sun, 05 Apr 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Carlsberg Column WI5 https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/57-carlsberg-column-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/57-carlsberg-column-canadian-rockies Carlsberg Column WI5

Carlsberg Column WI5 is nice icefall in Canadian Rockies, with good vertical ice.

First (WI3) pitch of Carlsberg Column). Photo: Damian Granowski

 

2 main pitches of Carlsberg Column. You can do it by on 50 meter pitch. Photo: Damian Granowski

Last pitch of Carlsberg Column. Photo: Damian Granowski

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 10 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Murchison Falls WI4+ https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/56-murchison-falls-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/56-murchison-falls-canadian-rockies Murchison Falls WI4+

Murchison Falls WI4+ were the best "Grade 4" Ice fall which I try (We retreat, because we don't have time to end this icefall). Real "Ice river". Recommended! On the right you have Virtual Reallity WI6. Two great classic ice falls. If you do both, then will be nice ice day ;).

Murchison Falls. Photo: Damian Granowski

Michał Dorocicz on third pitch of Murchison Falls. Photo: Damian Granowski

Jędrzej Jabłoński on But My Daddy’s a Psycho. Photo: Damian Granowski

Murchison Falls, on the right is Virtual Reallity WI6 (but on this photo doesn't exist. Photo: Damian Granowski

 

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 10 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Hydrofobia WI5+ https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/55-hydrofobia-ghost-arena-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/55-hydrofobia-ghost-arena-canadian-rockies Hydrofobia WI5+

Hydrofobia WI5+ in Ghost Arena is Icefall, which you must do! Three pitches (WI3, WI5+, WI5+) are beautiful.

 

First pitch of Hydrofobia. Photo: Damian Granowski

'

Jędrzej Jabłoński on Hydrofobia. Photo: Damian Granowski

Jędrzej on Hydrofobia. On second plan Michał Dorocicz with Agnieszka Kęcka climbs Cryophobia. Photo: Damian Granowski

JJ goes to last pitch of Hydrofobia. Photo: Damian Granowski

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 10 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Slipstream VI, WI4 https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/54-slipstream-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/54-slipstream-canadian-rockies Slipstream VI, WI4

Sllipstream WI4 / VI, 1000m first climbed in 1979 is the one of the most classics routes rockies. Route technically is easy (WI4), but dangerous (seracs, avalanches) and not so good descent do a real adventure :-).

Michał Dorocicz before "another day in office". Photo: Damian Granowski

 

Approach to the Slipstream. Photo: Damian Granowski

 

Views to the Valley. Photo: Damian Granowski

First pitch of Slipstream. Photo: Damian Granowski

Climbing in middle part of Slipstream. Photo: Damian Granowski

Really good quallity of ice on Slipstream. Photo: Damian Granowski

But weather was not so good... Photo: Damian Granowski

Line of Slipstream on Mount Snowdome. Photo: Damian Granowski

Rockies! Photo: Damian Granowski

Last pitch of Slipstream, below seracs. Photo: Damian Granowski

On the left you will see colouir, where you do 3 rappels to descent. Photo: Damian Granowski

Descent from Snowdome. Photo: Damian Granowski

Strong wind with snow. Photo: Damian Granowski

Tea after Slipstream. Photo: Damian Granowski

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Wed, 11 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Nophobia M10 in Ghost https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/53-nophobia-ghost-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/53-nophobia-ghost-canadian-rockies Nophobia M10 in Ghost

Nophobia M10 is the hard drytooling line in Ghost Arena in Canadian Rockies. We climb this route on 27 january 2015 (see news).

Nophobia is route of Will Gadd, Will Mayo, Pat Delaney, John Freeman. It has 5 pitches: M9, M10+, M8, M9, M8 WI4. The crux pitch originally has M11, but Will Gadd downgrade to M10+.

In december 2014 Jen Olson and Raphael Slawinski do - probably? - second ascent of this route. They both climb all pitches.

Probably our (D. Granowski and Jędrzej Jabłoński) ascent was third (?). We think thad grades for pitches of Nophobia should be: M9, M10, M7, M9, M7+ (+ WI4 if there is ice). We need two days for climbing free this route. Problem was with last pitch - without ice I think is M7+ on bolts and after that M6 on trad protection (cams to #2).

2 weeks after us route do Tim Emmet and Klemen Perl. They do almost (!) Flash ascent.

First pitch of Nophobia. Photo: Damian Granowski

Sarah Hueniken working on second pitch. Photo: Damian Granowski

Working on pitch 2. Photo: Damian Granowski

JJ on third pitch. Photo: Damian Granowski

Me on fourth pitch. Photo: Jędrzej Jabłoński

Topo of Nophobia. For us crux pitch has M10. Photo: Damian Granowski

Jędrzej on Pitch 4. Photo: Damian Granowski

Me on last pitch. Photo: Damian Granowski

Ghost Arena. Photo: Jędrzej Jabłoński

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Wed, 11 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Nemesis WI6 on Stanley Headwall https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/52-nemesis-stanley-headwall-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/52-nemesis-stanley-headwall-canadian-rockies Nemesis WI6 on Stanley Headwall

Nemesis is one of the most beautiful icefalls which I have ever done. It consist just only 2 long piches (WI4-6 and WI6), but they are amazing :).

Line of Nemesis. Photo: Damian Granowski

Michał Dorocicz on first pitch of Nemesis. Photo: Damian Granowski

d

Ice chimmey on Nemesis. Photo: Damian Granowski

Stanley Headwall. Photo: Damian Granowski

Me on second pitch. Photo: Michał Dorocicz

Nemesis, Stanley Headwall. Photo: Damian Granowski

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Wed, 11 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Sea of Vapors WI5-7 on Trophy Wall https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/51-sea-of-vapors-trophy-wall-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/51-sea-of-vapors-trophy-wall-canadian-rockies Michał Dorocicz on crux Sea of Vapors

Sea of Vapors WI5-7 on Trophy Wall is one of the famous ice line in Rockies. Trophy Wall (aka Terminator Wall) is place where all lines are amazing, and each route will be "trophy" in your climbing CV. Probably the most popular is Sea of Vapors.

 

Trophy Wall from approach. Photo: Damian Granowski

Line of Sea of Vapors. Photo: Damian Granowski

WI3 apprach ice. Photo: Damian Granowski

Michał Dorocicz on first pitch (WI5) of Sea of Vapors. Photo: Damian Granowski

Michał on last pitch. Photo: Damian Granowski

View from end of Trophy Wall. Photo: Damian Granowski

Last meters of climbing on Sea of Vapors. Photo: Damian Granowski

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 10 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Weeping Wall in Canadian Rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/50-weeping-wall-canadian-rockies https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/50-weeping-wall-canadian-rockies Weeping Wall in Canadian Rockies

Weeping Wall is one of the most famous icefalls in Rockies. 160 meters of ice from WI4 to WI5+. Mandatory route in Rockies. It consist Lower Weeping Wall (160 meters) and second Ice fall: Upper Weeping Wall (about 170 meters).

 

Lower Weeping Wall and Upper Weeping Wall. Photo: Damian Granowski

On Lower Weeping Wall you will find:

Snivelling Gully 180m II, WI 3-

Dead-Eye Dick 155m, III, WI5+
Left Hand 180m, II, WI4
Central Pillar 180m III, WI5+
Right Hand 180m III, WI5

Topo of Weeping Wall. Photo: Damian Granowski

Upper Weeping Wall with Weeping Pillar WI6. Photo. Damian Granowski

On Upper Weeping Wall:

Teardrop 170m IV, WI 5+ to 6
Weeping Pillar 170m V, WI 6
Mare in Winter 200m IV, WI 4+
Nasty Habits 200m IV, WI 6
Ice T 180m IV, WI 6
Tales of Ordinary Madness 180m IV, WI 5+

Michał Dorocicz on Weeping Pillar before our retreat :-). Photo Damian Granowski

Tree where is chain for rappels. Photo: Damian Granowski

Lower Weeping Wall from base. Photo: Damian Granowski

 

]]>
rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 10 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000