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List of all content - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Sun, 25 Sep 2022 13:54:24 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb Le Vol Du Dragon, new route on Les Droites https://winterclimb.com/news/item/30-le-vol-du-gragon https://winterclimb.com/news/item/30-le-vol-du-gragon Le Vol Du Dragon, new route on Les Droites

Czech climbers Jan Straka i Pavel Vrtik do new route on Les Droites. Le Vol Du Dragon (M7+ A2 1200m. 8-12 march 2014). Alpine style, no bolts, only one pitch is aid, 3 biwaques on wall. Here you have film from ascent.

{vimeo}94737465{/vimeo}

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) News Wed, 02 Jul 2014 00:00:00 +0000
Wanda Rutkiewicz https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/29-wanda-rutkiewicz https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/29-wanda-rutkiewicz Wanda Rutkiewicz after ascent on Everest

Wanda Rutkiewicz was probably the best polish female climber on high mountains. She was the first woman to successfully summit K2. She also summit Mount Everest, Nanga Parbat, Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Shisha Pangma, Annapurna.

Biography of Wanda Rutkiewicz

Wanda Rutkiewicz (Błaszkiewicz) was born in Lithuania on 2 February, 1943. After World War II, her family leave Lithuania, and moved to Poland. Finally they settled in Wrocław. Wanda in 1965 graduated on Wroclaw University of Technology as an electrical engineer. She started work in her profession (Instytut Automatyki Systemów Energetycznych), but in the early seventies she moved to Warsaw, where she started work in Instytut Maszyn Matematycznych.

In this years she play volleyball. She also run, shot put, the high jump, discus throwing, javelin throw. She also – in later years - start in Car Racing.

She start climbing in Sokoliki (some rocks near of Jelenia Góra. In translation from polish will be „Falcon Mountains”). In 1962 do a climbing course in Tatra Mountains. In Tatras she do lot of routes. Like Wariant R, direttissima of north face Mały Kieżmarski Szczyt.

Wanda in Sokoliki. Photo: Seweryn Bidziński

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2 years later she began climbing in the Alps. In 1967, do east face Aiguille du Grépon. In 1973 the North Pillar of the Eiger (Messner route). In 1978 the North Face of the Matterhorn in winter (first women-only-ascent, 1978).

In 1968 in ladies-only-team she does East Pillar of Trollryggen in Norway.

During the next 2 decades she became the unrivaled leader of feminine mountaineering contributing significantly to the development of women climbing tactics and philosophy. Especially in High Moutains.

Krzysztof Wielicki, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jerzy Kukuczka. Photo: onet.pl

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In 1970 she ascent on Lenin Peak in Pamir. 2 years later Noshaq. In 1975 she ascent Gasherbrum II (polish female altitude record).

1978 is the year, when she ascent on Mount Everest (16 october). The third female ascent and the first Western woman to reach the top of Mount Everest. That day Karol Wojtyła was chosen to become pope John Paul II. He sends message to Wanda: „Good God's will that same day we went so high”.

About 1985 she starts her „A Caravan of Dreams”. Project to ascent every eight thousand peak.

She subsequently climbed the awesome South Face of Aconcagua, the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat in a women's team, K2 in 1986 as the first woman on top of the world's most serious eight-thousand-metre peak, Shisha Pangma, Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I, both in female teams, Cho Oyu and Annapurna by the extremely difficult South Face.

She do eight 8000 peak. Nine should be Kangchenjunga, but 12 may 1992 year she was lost on summit day. At nightfall on the 12th May she was last seen some 300 m short of the top, preparing a bivouac. She probably died during the night or the next day climbing towards the summit or even descending from it.

Photo. Damian Granowski

She wrote 2 books, Zdobycie Gasherbrumów (1979) and Na jednej linie (1986, co-author Ewa Matuszewska), and dozens of articles and reports. During the last decade she devoted a large part of her time and energy to film making, e.g. on Aconcagua's South Face Gdybyś przyszedł pod tę ścianę, on K2 Requiem, on Cerro Torre, on Nanga Parbat, on Gasherbrum II and on the people of the Baltoro region Ludzie na Baltoro.

Sources: drytooling.com.pl, king-albert-foundation.ch, wikipedia.org

Tatra Mountains

  • Wariant R, Mnich
  • 1973, Direttissima, north face Mały Kieżmarski Szczyt.
  • Droga Fereńskiego in winter, Mnich. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jan Franczuk
  • 1971, 2 Sep - New route on NW face Niżna Wysoka Gierlachowska. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Andrzej Uznański.

Alpy

  • 1964-65 – NW flank Olperer, north face Hochfernerspitze, Zillertal
  • 1966 - Mont Blanc
  • 1967 – E face Aiguille du Grépon (3482 m). First female ascent. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Halina Krüger-Syrokomska.
  • 1971 - Bavarian Route, north face Triglav.
  • 1973 19-22 Aug – North pillar Eiger. First repeat. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Danuta Gellner-Wach and Stefania Egierszdorff
  • 1978 - North face Matterhorn. First female team ascent. Team: Anna Czerwińska, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Krystyna Palmowska, Irena Kęsa.
  • 1979, 15-16 Jul - Bonatti Route, E face Grand Capucin. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Irena Kęsówna.

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High Mountains

  • 1975, 11 Aug - Gasherbrum III (7946 m). On this time the highest virgin peak. Team: Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Janusz Onyszkiewicz, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Krzysztof Zdzitowiecki.
  • 1975, 12 Aug - Gasherbrum II. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz.
  • 1978, 16 Nov – Mount Everest. First polish ascent, first european female and third female on Everest.
  • 1985, 15 Jun – Nanga Parbat, first female team ascent. Team: Anna Czerwińska, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Krystyna Palmowska.
  • 1986, 23 Jun – K2. First female and polish ascent.
  • 1987, 18 Sep – Shisha Pangma. Team: Ryszard Warecki, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Carlos Carsolio, Elsa Ávila, Ramíro Navarrete. Near of peak, join Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer (They ascent on new route in alpine style).
  • 1989, 12 Jul – Gasherbrum II.
  • 1990, 16 Jul – Gasherbrum I. Team: Ewa Pankiewicz, Wanda Rutkiewicz.
  • 1991, 26 Sep – Cho Oyu alone.
  • 1991, 22 Nov – S face Annapurna.

Others

  • 1968 - E pillar Trollryggen. First female ascent. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Halina Krüger-Syrokomska.
  • 1970 – Pik Lenina (7134 m)
  • 1972, 23 Aug – Noszak.
  • 1985 – S face Aconcagua, alpine style. Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Stéphane Schaffter.
  • 1988 - Attempt Cerro Torre Team: Wanda Rutkiewicz, Monika Niedbalska, Iwona Gronkiewicz-Marcisz, Ewa Szcześniak, Ewa Panejko-Pankiewicz.
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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Wed, 02 Jul 2014 00:00:00 +0000
Angelika Rainer in Canada https://winterclimb.com/video/item/27-angelika-rainer-in-canada https://winterclimb.com/video/item/27-angelika-rainer-in-canada Angelika Rainer in Canada

Here you have nice film. Angelika Rainer on Steel Koan M13+ and Clash of Titans WI10+

 

{vimeo}95163413{/vimeo}

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:42:52 +0000
Russian Dry Tooling Style... https://winterclimb.com/video/item/25-russian-dry-tooling-style https://winterclimb.com/video/item/25-russian-dry-tooling-style Russian Dry Tooling Style...

Russian Dry Tooling Style. Remember: the most important are legs!

{youtube}ZD9W18hCCmI{/youtube}

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:33:54 +0000
Lucie Hrozová repeated Bafomet M14 - movie https://winterclimb.com/news/item/24-lucie-hrozova-repeated-bafomet-m14 https://winterclimb.com/news/item/24-lucie-hrozova-repeated-bafomet-m14 Lucie Hrozová repeated Bafomet M14 - movie

Yesterday Lucie Hrozová repeated Bafomet M14 in Tatra Mountains (Poland). It's the first female ascent on this route and fourth in order. There also is movie from this ascent :).

 

Lucie on Bafomet. Photo. profil fb Lucie Hrozová.

Bafomet was send 7 February 2013 by Michal Krol i Marcin Gąsienica-Kotelnicki. It's the hardest polish drytooling route. After them, route repeated Pavol Rajčan.

Here you have movie from Bafomet (Camera: Marek Kaczmarczyk). Just only half, because battery was low:

{youtube}OI5NM6m_4u4{/youtube}

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) News Sun, 09 Feb 2014 18:27:21 +0000
TNF Thermoball Hoodie Review/test https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/23-test-thermoball-hoodie-the-north-face https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/23-test-thermoball-hoodie-the-north-face TNF Thermoball Hoodie Review/test

In early October 2013 I received The North Face Thermoball Hoodie – light, synthetic, filled with primaloft - jacket. The key word is Thermoball . It is the insulation of primaloft, not in textile, but in small balls. With this simple solution, the insulation has the warmth equivalent of 600-fill down.

More about the jacket you can read here. I also recommend the article: Down vs Primaloft (polish version). Meanwhile, I invite you to read the test/review.

On Galeria Gankowa. Photo Mikołaj Pudo

The first information about the new the insulation of TNF aroused my curiosity. Will it be really as it says TNF. Warm, packable, etc. ?

First impressions positive. Designers jacket put on minimalism. The jacket has not to many accessories. It weighs ~400 grams (14.11 oz).

We have two large pockets on the hands, which can pack a jacket. Although best suited for the left pocket, in which the lock has a dual slider.

Packed jacket is a cuboid of dimensions 25x10x8 cm ~ which can be attain to the harness, etc.

Lower welt can be reduced in order to better adhere to the body. Thanks to a clever patent we can do with his hands in his pocket :-)

Main - plastic - lock is from the bottom of the strip against cold . Although at the end ( the face) , could be finished with a finer material, flap.

All zippers are YKK company.

Hood fits with helmet -  high collar makes the neck is well protected. But Hood doesn't have welt. In windy conditions, hood was blown from my head.

Sleeves are equipped with elastic cuffs to prevent heat loss

Thermoball Hoodie is quite spacious. We can assume for a second - lighter - a jacket , and still be a bit of space. I am however a typical climber and I would prefer that the waist was less space ( lighter product).

City

Thermoball Hoodie is available in four colors (gray , black, blue, red). I have a red. In the mountains is a big plus (potential rescue).Deep pockets warm and nice design makes it often like to move around the city.

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Trekking / Skit-tour

Usually I walk with only one layer (softshell, etc). But sometimes is pretty cold/windy, then I use Thermoball. Material in jacket is well isolated from the wind, but as I previously mentioned, the hood does not have a welt, then sometimes wind blow hood from head. Hopefully the designers will add pullers in the next season.

On the NW peak of Świnica after passing the Pillar Swinica. Photo. Maciej Chmielecki

Climbing

Generally I use jacket in temperatures to -5 - max -10 degrees Celsius. Usually, I used it as a belay jacket. Sometimes as an additional inner layer against cold, while climbing.

Author in the jacket TNF Thermoball Hoodie on Direttissima MSW . Photo. Jacek Kierzkowski

In conclusion it is not sure jacket, which is to protect us - alone - against a big frost (below -10 °C
). Rather, the product of the category Light & Fast, also with good looking in the city . Thermoball Hoodie is a lightweight, packable , warm - ideal for mountain trips where weight is important.

Damian Granowski

Here you have test in Polish version

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Fri, 31 Jan 2014 00:00:00 +0000
Fuel - New Ice Toll from BD https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/22-fuel-new-ice-toll-black-diamond https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/22-fuel-new-ice-toll-black-diamond Fuel - New Ice Toll from BD

On autumn 2014 in shops will be new Ice Toll from Black Diamond. Fuel will be dedicated for hard drytooling and mixt climbing. It will be like Fusion, but without hammer, and lighter.

 

Ines Papert climbing with Fuel on Bozeman Ice Festival. Photo. Ben Herndon

weight about 651 gram (1lb i 7 oz). Price ~ 250$.

Source: thegearcaster.com

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Mon, 27 Jan 2014 17:33:54 +0000
Wojciech "Voytek" Kurtyka https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/20-wojciech-kurtyka https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/20-wojciech-kurtyka Wojciech

Wojciech Kurtyka was born in polish village Skrzynka (1947, 20 Sep) - He is one of the best polish climbers. He has lots of first ascents in Tatra Mountains, Himalays, Alps and many others.

Wojciech Kurtyka ascended Dhaulagiri I in 1980, Broad Peak in 1982, Gasherbrum II East (first ascent with Jerzy Kukuczka), Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I in 1983, Broad Peak again (first traverse over Broad North- and Central-Peaks with Jerzy Kukuczka) in 1984, Gasherbrum IV NE-Peak across the incredible West Face with Robert Schauer in 1985. Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central-Peak in 1990.

Kurtyka became well known abroad in early 1973 after achieving the first winter ascent of Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway, the highest vertical cliff on the continent (4 men Polish team, see the list of climbs below). He started in Greater Ranges in 1972, completing a little-known – but important according to him – first ascent of the wall of Akher Chogh in Hindu Kush, in lightweight, alpine style. He started climbing in the Himalayas in 1974. After participating in two big Polish national expeditions in 1974 and 1976, he gradually turned to lightweight expeditions.

Wojtek Kurtyka. Photo: Lukasz Warzecha

More information you will see on this site (soon here will be more information in english)

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Tatra Mountains

1970, 2 Aug – Kurtykówka VI+, new route on NE face of Mały Młynarz. Team: Michał Gabryel, Janusz Kurczab, Wojciech Kurtyka.

1971, 25, 27, 28 and 29-31 Dec – Ściek VI A3, Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. First winter ascent. Team: Michał Gabryel, Marek Kęsicki, Wojciech Kurtyka, Janusz Kurczab, Andrzej Mierzejewski, Janusz Skorek.

1971, 24-28 Mar - Direttissima (VI A2-A3), Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. First winter ascent: Tadeusz Gibiński, Michał Gabryel, Wojciech Kurtyka, Andrzej Wilusz.

1972, 29-31 Dec - Pająki(Spiders) (VI A3), Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. First winter ascent. Team: Kazimierz Głazek, Marek Kęsicki, Wojciech Kurtyka, Andrzej Wilusz.

1973, 28-30 Dec - Superściek V A2, Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. New route and in winter. Team: Piotr Jasiński, Wojciech Kurtyka, Krzysztof Pankiewicz, Zbigniew Wach.

1978, 4-5 Mar - Czyżewski-Kurtyka (VI+, A2+), Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. New route. Team: Zbigniew Czyżewski (Małolat), Wojciech Kurtyka

1987, 26-28 Feb - Kurtyka-Marcisz, IV A2 ice 80-90, Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. New route in winter, 26 hours non-stop. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Andrzej Marcisz.

1991 - Łamaniec VI.5 (7c+, bolted), Raptawicka Turnia. First that hard route in Tatra Mountains. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Grzegorz Zajda.

1992 - Gacopyrz Now VIII+, Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. New route. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Andrzej Marcisz.

Kant Filara VII+, Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka. First free ascent. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Władysław Janowski.

Alps

1971 – Ratti/Vitali, W face Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Janusz Kurczab.

1973 – Voie Petit Jean, N face Aiguille du Dru. New route named after Jan Franczuk, who died in 1971 on Kunyang Chhish). Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojtek Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.

1975 - Pointe Hélène, aka Polish Route, N faceGrandes Jorasses. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojtek Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.

Hindu Kush

1972 – NE face of Akher Chagh (7017 m). New route, alpine style (one of first ascent in that style in high mountains). Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Piotr Jasiński, Marek Kowalczyk.

1977, 9-14 Aug – NE Kohe Bandaka (6843 m). New route, alpine style. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Alex MacIntyre, John Porter.

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Himalays, Karakorum

1978, 18-29 Sep – S pillar of Changabang (6864 m). Team: Alex MacIntyre, Wojciech Kurtyka, John Porter, Krzysztof Żurek.

1980, 18 May – First ascent on E face of Dhaulagiri. Team: René Ghiline, Wojciech Kurtyka, Alex MacIntyre and Ludwik Wilczyński.

1981 – two attempts to W face of Makalu. First in spring with Alex MacIntyre and in autumn with Jerzy Kukuczka.

1982 – Travers of Broad Peak. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka

1983, 1 Jul – Gasherbrum II, after traverse from unclimbed Gasherbrum II East (7772 m). Team: Jerzy Kukuczka , Wojciech Kurtyka.

1983, 23 Jul – Gasherbrum I. New route on SW Face. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.

1984, 16 Jul - Broad Peak Middle. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.

1984, 17 Jul - Broad Peak. End of traverse three peaks of massif Broad Peak. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.

1985 – First ascent on W face of Gasherbrum IV (7925 m), without Peak, alpine style. One of the greatest ascent in that style. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Robert Schauer.

1988, 24 Jun-13 Jul – First ascent on E face Trango Nameless Tower (6238 m). First ascent in only 2 person, 4 team on peak. Team: Wojtek Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan.

1990, 21 Sep – SW face of Cho Oyu. Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, Jean Troillet.

1990, 3 Oct – SW face of Shisha Pangma, without Peak.Team: Wojciech Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, Jean Troillet.

1997 – Attempt to Nanga Parbat with Erhard Loretan

Others

1974, 7-19 Mar – French Route (6+, A4, 1100 m). First winter ascent on N face Trollveggen (Troll Face), Norway. Team: Marek Kęsicki, Ryszard KowalewskiWojciech KurtykaTadeusz Piotrowski.

1976 – Filar Abazego VI.3+ TR (7a+). That time, the hardest sport climbing in Poland. In 1985 Woytek do free solo on that route. Check film „Free climbing” in this article.

1993 - Chiński Maharadża VI.5 (7c+), free solo. Voytek Kurtyka was 46 years old! To this day is the hardest free solo in Poland!

1993 - 1993 - Shock the Monkey VI.5+/6 (8a/a+) RP, Pochylec. The hardest sport climbing route of Voytek.

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 Voytek Kurtyka quotes

Mountaineering is a complex and unique way of life, interweaving elements of sport, art and mysticism. Success or failure depends on the ebb and flow of immense inspiration. Detecting a single rule governing this energy is difficult – it arises and vanishes like the urge to dance and remains as mysterious as the phenomenon of life itself. Wojciech Kurtyka

I don’t like egocentricity, which is something that I have arduously battled in myself my entire life. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

…every type of evil we’ve got in us is the result of that one true illness of the human mind - that is, of being self-centered. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

The most significant dimension of freedom is the freedom from one’s own ego - in other words, from the feeling that I am the center of everything Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Stupidity is falling pray to your own illusions. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

I like to describe Himalayan climbing as a kind of art of suffering. Just pushing, pushing yourself to your limits. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Every move is a creation,
Maintaining the delicate balance is a creation,
The line is a creation,
Survival is a creation,
Freedom is a creation. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

I see one single suitable role for my life’s work: for it to be a gift to others. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Such ventures required a more hairbreadth creativity: a finer balance between hazard and endurance; talent and vision; a willingness to accept that control may only be an illusion, that success is determined not by the summit, but by the means alone  and that at times your survival, may be the only reward.  On experimenting with styles and technical routes on Everest. The most minimalist form of 8000-meter alpine style night-naked climbing , in which mind and body listen to a new voice, follow a new rhythm (away from) the known paths… without rules or routines to rely on … (where) the only advice comes from deep inside the self… (and) the mountaineer is creative, not merely a participant in sport.
Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

If there is such a thing as spiritual materialism, it is displayed in the urge to possess the mountains rather than to unravel and accept their mysteries. Wojciech Kurtyka (Voytek Kurtyka)

Beauty is the door to another world… Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Whenever a climber leaves the known paths, he enters an area without rules or routines... The only advice comes from deep inside the self. Voytek Kurtyka

Other extremely alluring traits (in people) are simplicity and naturalness.  Simplicity and naturalness are never painfully obvious qualities, and yet which I come across them in a person, I get this sense of a firm foundation and of a direct access to truth. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

"Isn’t a person who can live on nothing much stronger?  I try to nurture that transformation in myself. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Enslavement to your own weakness - be it an addiction to alcohol, or to a woman or to fame - it’s degrading, and it means losing your dignity and your freedom. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

When you are totally defeated you begin again to enjoy the small things around you. Just going to the mountains, not for victory or glory, but to enjoy nature or enjoy fine people. If you always succeed you enjoy the admiration of many people. Being defeated means being limited to the basis existential choices of life. If you can enjoy the quiet evening hours it is beautiful; a hero who always succeeds may not have time to enjoy such things. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

The essence of adventure is being put in an unknown position from which you don’t know what will happen. The unknown is the essence of adventure. And on Trango Tower the aspect of adventure was not so great as on Gasherbrum IV or on the Broad Peak traverse, because we fixed 500 meters of rope for the descent. The ropes were there, so it was not a position of being completely unknown. This possible escape eliminated an aspect of adventure. But another aspect of adventure is facing up to the unexpected, and this happened a lot on Trango Tower. We never knew what the next pitch would be or if the weather would hold. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka) [Wojciech Kurtyka, The East Face of Trango’s Nameless Tower, AAJ 1989; Trango Extremes, Mountain 1989. May/June, No 127]

In this way the climber faces his second deadly threat. The first is naturally the risk of killing the. Second is immersed in the deceitfulness of mental and believing that you are worth as much as the public image. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Difficult struggle in mountaineering is our rise above himself, is the voice of freedom. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Classic mountaineering grows out of a traditional romantic imagination. Its heart is the "feeling", its path is "blood, sweat and tears", and its restriction is God. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

I just have a dream mountain under the eyelids, this is my breath, my life. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Naturally, the top does not automatically make us better. Like the samurai frequented ordinary cutthroat, so sometimes extreme mountaineer can be self-centered, mythomaniac or crook to each yourself and the environment. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Naturally, the mountains does not automatically make us better. Like the samurai frequented ordinary cutthroat, so sometimes extreme mountaineer self-centered, mythomaniac or crook to each other and the environment. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

For me, the ascent to the peak of the normal ways that torment and anguish. Inspired by the idea of ​​transition was always something that at the moment transcends imagination, seemingly absolutely insurmountable, so absurd in terms of the Himalayan conditions that up beautiful. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

Quotes of famous climbers

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Thu, 26 Dec 2013 00:00:00 +0000
Mountaineering timeline https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/19-timeline-the-history-of-mountaineering-alpinism https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/19-timeline-the-history-of-mountaineering-alpinism Mountaineering timeline

The History of Mountaineering has a lot great achievements. Here is some important and iconic ascents. Not all :-), but in future will be more.

In text you will see a lot of links to polish website drytooling.com.pl. It is my another website, about winter climbing. There is lot of climbing stuff :-) and off course you have google translate. Enjoy!

 

1760, 21 Dec - Alpinism is "invented". Genevan naturalist Horace Bénédict de Saussure offered a large reward to anyone who could find the way up Mont Blanc

1786, 8 Aug - The first ascent of Mont Blanc. Jaques Balmat & Michel Piccard conquerd

1809 - First female ascent of Mont Blanc (Marie Paradis).

1821 - Chamonix guides company established . First guides’ association in the world.

1857 - The Alpine Club was founded in London due to it's popularity amongst Britains "elite".

1864 - The start of the Golden Age of Climbing . An English designer Edward Whymper and Michel Croz a trainee guide, accomplished three 1st ascents in one week; The Col de Triolet, L'Aiguille de Treletete and the L'Aiguille d'Argentiere. He made a further half dozen first ascents in Europe and the Americas over the following 5 years.

1865, 14 Jul - First ascent on Matterhorn (Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Lord Francis Douglas, Charles Hudson, Douglas Hadow, Peter Taugwalder, Peter Taugwalder (son)

1888 - First ascent on Ushba (John Garford Cockin, Ulrich Almer)

1892 - Himalaya Exploration . Conway of Allington explored the Karakorum range Himalayas.

1897, 14 Jan - First ascent on Aconcagua (Matthias Zurbriggen)

1931, 31 Jul-1 Aug – First ascent on north face of Matterhorn (Franz Schmid, Toni Schmid).

1935 - First ascent on north face of Grandes Jorasses (Meier/Peters)

1938, 24 Jul - First ascent on north face of Eiger (Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek, Ludwig Vörg, Anderl Heckmair)

1950, 3 Jun - First ascent on Annapurna (Maurice Herzog, Louise Lachenal). That was first ascent on eight-thousander

1950 - First ascent on north face of Eiger in one day (18 hours. Leo Forstenlechner and Erich Wascak).

1953, 29 May – First ascent on Mount Everest (Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay).

1953, 3 Jul - First ascent on Nanga Parbat. Hermann Buhl. Solo and without bottled oxygen.

1954, 31 Jul - First ascent on K2 (Achille Compagnoni, Lino Lacedelli).

1957, 9 Jun - First ascent on Broad Peak. (Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller)

1961, 6-12 Mar - First winter ascent on north face of Eiger (Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mannhardt, Walter Almberger, Toni Hiebeler).

1962 – First winter ascent on north face of Matterhorn.

1965, 18-22 Feb - Walter Bonatti send new route on north face of Matterhorn (solo in winter).

1966, 17 Dec - First ascent on Mount Vinson (Barry Corbet, John Evans, Bill Long and Pete Schoening)

1974 -First - unquestioned - ascent on Cerro Torre (Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, Pino Negri).

1974 - Time record on north face of Eiger (10 hours, Reinhold Messner, Peter Habeler)

1976 - New route on north face Grandes Jorasses, Colton-MacIntyre (VI 6, A1, 90°, 1150 m). Alex MacIntyre, Nick Colton use two ice axes, and front point crampons. This technique was very fast.

1977 - First ascent on Baintha Brakk (other name "Ogre) Chris Bonington and Doug Scott). When they descent from peak, Doug has accident. He broke both legs, but he don't give up. Descent was epic.

1977 - First ascent on Trango Towers.

1978, 8 May – First ascent on Mount Everest without bottled oxygen (Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler). Two years later Messner returned to climb Everest completely alone and without oxygen.

1978 - First winter ascent on north face of Matterhorn. (Anna CzerwińskaWanda Rutkiewicz, Krystyna Palmowska, Irena Kęsa).

1979 - British ascent on Kangchenjunga (Dough Scott, Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman, Georges Bettembourg). Alpine style, new route. Earlier no one think about that style in high mountains.

1980, 17 Feb – First winter ascent on Mount Everest, by polish national expedition (Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki).

1984 - First ascent on eight-thousander in one day (Krzysztof Wielicki, 21,5 hours base-peak-base).

1984, 17 Jul – Traverse of massif Broad Peak (Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojtek Kurtyka. Alpine style without bottled oxygen.

1985 - First ascent on west face of Gasherbrum IV (Wojtek Kurtyka, Robert Schauer). One of the best alpine ascent in high mountains.

1986 – Reinhold Messner complete all 14 eight-thousanders ascents.

1986, 23 Jun - Firs female ascent on K2 (Wanda Rutkiewicz, also first polish climber on K2)

1986 - Tragic year on K2, on 40 climbers died 13.

1987 – Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber to accomplish all 14 eight-thousanders ascents, but in better style (eight years (1979-1987, Messner 16 years), on 9 peaks he send new route, 4 ascents in winter!).

1988 - Maciej Berbeka is first climber who ascend 8000 meters in Karakorum in winter (Rocky Summit on Broad Peak)

1988, 31 Dec - Krzysztof Wielicki ascend Lhotse in winter (also solo)

1990 - First route on south face of Lhotse (Russian team: Siergiej Bierszow, Vladimir Karatajew)

1992, 10 March - Catherine Destivelle solo on north face of Eiger in 17 hours. First time woman go on that hard face solo.

1995 - Reinhold Messner started with project MMM (Messner Mountain Museum).

1997 - First ascent on west face of Latok II. Aleksander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch and Conrad Anker.

1999 - Denis Urubko in 42 days ascent 5 seven-thousanders of ZSSR, and became "Snow Leopard".

2004 - Steve House send solo new route on south face of K7 (41 hours from base to base).

2005, 14 Jan - First winter ascent on Shisha Pangma (Piotr Morawski, Simone Moro). Simone became first non polish climber, who ascend eight-thousander in winter.

2005 - New route in alpine style on Rupal Face, Nanga Parbat. Vince Anderson, Steve House.

2009, 9 Feb - First winter ascent on Makalu (Simone Moro, Denis Urubko)

2009, 13 Jan - Ueli Steck do new time record on north face of Matterhorn. (Schmid Route, 1:56 hours, solo!)

2010, 17 May -  First woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World (Edurne Pasaban).

2011, 2 Feb - First winter ascent on Gasherbrrum II (first eight-thousander in Karakorum). (Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, Cory Richards.

2011, 23 Aug - Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner complete all of the fourteen eight-thousander, without bottled oxygen.

2011, 20 AprNew record on north face of Eiger. Dani Arnold do Heckmair Route in 2:28.

2012, 19 Jan - Free climbing on Compressor Route on Cerro TorreZespół: David Lama, Peter Ortner.

2012, 15 Jul - First ascent on Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat (Sandy Allan, Rick Allen).

2012 - Robert Jasper send Ironman M/D14+ in Eptingen

2013, 9 Oct - Ueli Steck do solo new route on south face of Annapurna. Base-peak-base in 28 hours.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Wed, 25 Dec 2013 20:07:06 +0000
Angelika Rainer repeated Steel Koan M13+ https://winterclimb.com/news/item/18-angelika-rainer-repeated-steel-koan-m13 https://winterclimb.com/news/item/18-angelika-rainer-repeated-steel-koan-m13 Angelika Rainer repeated Steel Koan M13+

Angelika Rainer on one trip repeated dry-tooling classic Steel Koan M13+, and win on Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival.

On first day in Canada They have something about -30 °C. First Angelika with Marco Servalli go to cave Haffner Cave, where was only... -27 °C. She repeat  Caveman M10 and Fire Roasted JC’s Rig,  M10, both on flash style.

Next She go to cave Cineplex, where on third day, she repeat Steel Koan M13+ (there was -10 °C). Respect!
 
The hardest route repeated by woman is Ironman M14+ (Lucie Hrozová, 2013).

After the success in Cineplex, Angelika go to Bozeman, where she win :-).
 
17. Bozeman Ice Climbing Festival, USA

11 -15 December 2013
Woman
1. Angelika Rainer, Italy
2. Stephanie Maureau, France
3. Sarah Huenkien, Canada
 
Men
1. Janez Svolijaak, Slovenia
2. Will Gadd, Canada
3. Will Mayo, USA

Source: planetmountain.com

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) News Thu, 19 Dec 2013 10:57:14 +0000