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List of all content - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Sun, 14 Aug 2022 06:48:23 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb Worn Wear https://winterclimb.com/video/item/13-worn-wear https://winterclimb.com/video/item/13-worn-wear Worn Wear

Worn Wear is an exploration of quality -- in the things we own and the lives we live. This short film, from Patagonia, takes you to an off-the-grid surf camp in Baja, Mexico; a family's maple syrup harvest in Contoocook, New Hampshire; an organic farm in Ojai, California; and into the lives of a champion skier, a National Geographic photographer, and a legendary alpinist. It also features exclusive interviews with Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard. Released as an antidote to the Black Friday and Cyber Monday shopping frenzy, Worn Wear is an invitation to celebrate the stuff you already own.

 

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You can also use this clues to your stuff like phones, computers, cars, etc.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Tue, 03 Dec 2013 10:26:50 +0000
10 best climbing, mountaineering websites https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/12-10-best-climbing-mountaineering-websites-blogs https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/12-10-best-climbing-mountaineering-websites-blogs 10 best climbing, mountaineering websites

Are you a maniac of climbing, especially in winter? Your environment is a rock/ice/snow? Here you have 10 websites, which are worth your time :)

10. davemacleod.blogspot.com

Dave MacLeod is one of the all-round best climbers in UK (Scotland). There is lot stuff about trening and climbing

9. alpineexposures.com

Jonathan Griffith blog about alpine climbing near of Chamonix. Jon is awesome climbing photograf and on this blog you will find some his magnificent photos!

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8. up-climbing.com

7. thebmc.co.uk

Website British Mountain Council.

6. summitpost.org

summitpost.org – is a collaborative content community focused on climbing, mountaineering, hiking and other outdoor activities. This site is built by its members. On summitpost.org you will find practical info about climbing on mountains. Internet database of peaks, summit is… huge :).


5. explorersweb.com

4. climbing.com

The best USA climbing website. Lot of good content and really nice climbing pictures.

3. ukclimbing.com

British website about climbing. You will find here everthing. News, articles, topo, nice forum. Content from bouldering to alpine climbing.

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2. planetmountain.com

Italian website where you have climbing news (italian and english language). Also lot of topo and interviews. I think that planetmountain is the best climbing news website on the world (in english).

1. alpinist.com

Probably the best paper magazine about climbing. Website has also lot of good content. Climbing news are well prepared. Texts are very good.


Also check: Climbing forums on the world.

Last but no least ;) - Please. You can like on fb my blog WinterClimb where you have there topos, some nice information about mountaineering, ice climbing, dry-tooling and other stuff :). I very rarely write something about me :). Check below:

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Sun, 10 Nov 2013 19:03:29 +0000
The Frost Giants https://winterclimb.com/video/item/11-the-frost-giants https://winterclimb.com/video/item/11-the-frost-giants The Frost Giants

Check this awesome video, about night ice climbing.

The Frost Giants of Norse mythology were huge, cold and practically indomitable. At night they taught the people of the North to fear, only to freeze again the next day. In January 2013, extreme sports photographer Thomas Senf headed off for Norway with a team of fearless Mammut ice climbers. The plan was to set the professional athletes against the nocturnal backdrop of the legendary world of the Frost Giants using flares and spotlights. The project produced unique photos, the likes of which the world has never seen before.

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Find out more about the story on Mammut blog.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Sat, 09 Nov 2013 09:29:01 +0000
Keeper of the Mountains Trailer https://winterclimb.com/video/item/10-keeper-of-the-mountains-trailer https://winterclimb.com/video/item/10-keeper-of-the-mountains-trailer Keeper of the Mountains Trailer

Who don't knows, about Miss Hawley? Here you have trailer " Keeper of the Mountains". Enjoy :)

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Sat, 02 Nov 2013 19:38:26 +0000
Climbing excuses https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/8-climbing-excuses https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/8-climbing-excuses Climbing excuses

Sometimes you don't want climb, because you are afraid, weak, route is too hard, the shelter is warm.... But you cannot told your partner, that you are weak! You just must tell him some excuse.

 

Below you have some examples :-)

"I'am so weak today" - Number one!

"There were no conditions" - perfect excuse for mountaineering :-)

Damm - I take wrong shoes/crampons/Ice tools/etc.

"Damm - I Forgot rope/quickdraws/ice tools/crampons/etc." - Before climbing you must tell, that you will take this gear.

"I lost... Stove/ice tool/etc." - expensive, pathetic but effective. You must lost this gear in place, where retreat is easy.

My ice tools/crampons are blunt

I broke my gear

The sun was in my eyes.

The rain/storm is coming

There was too great avalanche risk

Forgot to trim my nails.

I had the flu last week... so I'm recovering

I forgot to get the beta for that one section.

This problem seems harder than last time.

I'm not used to (sandstone/granite/quartzite/gritstone/rhyolite/mud).

I'm not used to (sport/trad/ice climbing/dry-tooling/mountaineering).

I think a hold must have broken off.

Can't do that route without a rope nobody nearby will offer to loan you.

Let's do something else to warm up first.

Weather's looking iffy.

I'd do it, but this is my old rope and I don't want to take falls on it.

I'd do it, but this is my new rope and I don't want to take falls on it.

I'd do it, but I don't have time today.

I'd do it, but route was ugly/stupid.

I'd do it, but today I'am lazy.

I'd do it, but there was queue to this route.

I'd lead it, but my partner would have trouble following it.

I'd lead it, but I'am too short.

We were going to do it, but somebody was on it.

I haven't eaten enough today.

I just ate.

I just ate a big meal.

I'm dehydrated

It's my 3-7 day of climbing without rest

It's too early.

It's too late.

It's too wet

I don't have skin on fingers

Bolt was moving

The route has dangerous bolts

Something bite me (mosquito/ant/bee/wasp)

Holds are getting too polished from all the climbers.

These pants restrict my motion too much.

Hmm, I'am probably ill today

Something hit me!

I slipped!

You wanna lead ?

Beta was incorrect...

We did not get permit to our Mountain

This is 7b/M10/5.12!? Impossible!

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:40:03 +0000
Carabiners - How make climbing gear (part 1) https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/7-carabiners-how-make-climbing-gear-part-1 https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/7-carabiners-how-make-climbing-gear-part-1 Carabiners - How make climbing gear (part 1)

Enjoy first part of "Making climbing gear"

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Sat, 08 Jun 2013 00:00:00 +0000
Krzysztof Wielicki - Flying Horse https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/6-krzysztof-wielicki https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/6-krzysztof-wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki - Flying Horse

One of the most outstanding high-altitude mountaineers is Krzysztof Wielicki from Poland. He climb all fourteen eight-thousanders (fifth man on the world). With Leszek Cichy he did first winter ascent to Mount Everest. Krzysztof climb also in winter Lhotse and Kangchenjunga. He is member of The Explorers Club.

Krzysztof Wieliski was born on 5 January, 1950. He is engineer of electronic. Today he is CEO of company which distribute outdoor goods (for example Grivels) in Poland. 

He started climbing in Sokoliki Mountains in Poland when he was 20 years old. In Tatras he climb from 1970 (summer and winter. New routes on Jastrzębia Turnia and Jaworowy Szczyt. First winter ascents on Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka (the hardest Polish winter wall)).  In Alps he climb on Punta Civetta, Pan di Zucchero and Punta Tissi. In Caucasus on Kosztan-tau, Dych-tau and Krumkol. In Hindu Kusk he do new route on Szachaur. 

In 1978 he start mountaineering in Himalays (ascent on Annapurna South).

on 17 February, 1980 with Leszek Cichy, made first winter ascent on Mount Everest.  That was also first ever winter ascent on 8000 meter peak.

After that Krzysztof Wielicki also completed all fourteen eight-thousanders. Some of them in winter, some by new routes. He need fot this 16 years.

Krzysztof Wielicki after descent from Nanga Parbat. Photo. arch. Krzysztof Wielicki

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The most important ascents of Krzysztof Wielicki

17 February, 1980 - Mount Everest, normal route from Nepal. First winter ascent (!), also first ever winter ascent of a summit ofa a 8000 meter peak. Team: Leszek Cichy, Krzysztof Wielicki.

14 July, 1984 - Broad Peak, normal route, solo. First - ever -  ascent on 8000 meter peak in 24 hours (16 hours up, 6 hours down). After this ascent climbers from base do a nickname for Wielicki: "Flying Horse".

20 October, 1984 - Manaslu, new route on SE face. Team: Aleksander Lwow.

11 January, 1986 - Kangchenjunga, normal route. First winter ascent. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki.

24 September, 1986 - Makalu, SW ridge and N face. New variation on French Route. Team: Marcel Rüedi, Krzysztof Wielicki.

31 December, 1988 - Lhotse, W face (normal route), solo. First winter ascent.

24 April, 1990 - Dhaulagiri, new route on E face, solo (16 hours from base to peak).

21 October, 1991 - Annapurna, by British route on S face. Team: Bogdan Stefko, Krzysztof Wielicki.

1992 - Manaslu, normal route. Team: Marco Bianchi, Christian Kuntner, Krzysztof Wielicki.

18 September, 1993 -  Cho Oyu, by Polish route. Team: Marco Bianchi, Krzysztof Wielicki.

7 October, 1993 - Shisha Pangma, new route on S face, solo.

9 July, 1995 - Gasherbrum II, normal route, solo.

15 July, 1995 - Gasherbrum I, Japan route, alpine style. 30 hours from base bo peak. Team: Jacek Berbeka, Carlos Carsolio, Krzysztof Wielicki, Ed Viesturs.

10 August, 1996 - K2, Japan route. Team: Marco Bianchi, Christian Kuntner, Krzysztof Wielicki

1 September, 1996 - Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer route, solo

26 July, 2006 - Gasherbrum II. Team: Rafał Fronia, Robert Jucha, Paweł Podsiadło, Krzysztof Wielicki, Zbigniew Zimniewicz.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Sat, 07 Nov 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Best climber's blogs https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/4-best-climbers-blogs-and-websites https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/4-best-climbers-blogs-and-websites

Lot of climbers have websites where you can read something about this person, but sometimes website is very good blog, where you can read about climbing trips, etc. Here you have list of climbers, who have nice blog.

 

Dave MaCleod

Jonathan Griffith

Raphael Slawinski

Will Gadd

Ueli Steck

Greg Boswell

Steve House

Joe Kinder

Mick Fowler

Nick Bullock

Tommy Caldwell

Steph Davis

Ines Papert

Robert Jasper

 

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Mon, 03 Jan 2011 00:00:01 +0000
Jerzy Kukuczka - short biography and list of ascents https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/3-jerzy-kukuczka https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/3-jerzy-kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka - short biography and list of ascents

Jerzy Kukuczka (1948-1989) is counted among the most outstanding mountain climbers in the world. After Reinhold Messner, he was the second man in history to have captured the Crown of the Himalayas. He do it in better style, than Messner: under 8 years, 11 new routes, four winter ascents. Only on one ascent, he use oxygen. He was one of an elite group of Polish Himalayan mountaineers who specialized in winter ascents (called Ice Warriors).

He is the first man who made the first winter ascents to the 3 eight-thousanders: Dhaulagiri with Andrzej Czok in 1985, Kangchenjunga with Krzysztof Wielicki in 1986 and Annapurna I with Artur Hajzer in 1987. One of the hardest routes in Karakorum is Polish Line, new route on South Face of Kw (with Tadeusz Piotrowski), which no one has ever repeated.

<a target='_blank' href='http://drytooling.com.pl/baza/ludzie/450-jerzy-kukuczka' title='J. Kukuczka - najwybitniejszy polski himalaista. Zdobywca Korony Himalajów jako druga osoba na świecie. W niesamowitym stylu (4 ośmiotysięczniki zimą, nowe drogi, styl alpejski). Ma na koncie liczne wspinaczki w górach całego świata. Zginął w 1989 ro' class='redlinker'>Jerzy Kukuczka</a>

Jerzy Kukuczka biography

Kukuczka was born in Katowice (Poland) in 1948, 24 March. He end primal school and trade school in Katowice.

His first rock climbing (then only climbing) was in 1965 (4 September). His friend take him to Podlesice, one of climbing spot with 25 meter high, limestone walls. At this first day, young Kukuczka feel that climbing will be very important thing in his life.

"I made a fantastic discovery. Rock fun pulled me so much that I stopped everything else for me to count "

Soon he send alpication to Mountaineering Club in Katowice. In 1966 he pass mountaineering course in Tatra Mountains (his instructors were Janusz Kurczab and Kazimierz Liszka. In Future his climbing partners). In next years he climbs in Tatras - every year on higher level.

In 1971 with Jerzy Kalla and Zbigniew Wach do first winter ascent of Kurtykówka VI+ (Wojciech Kurtyka route. At this time the hardest climbing route in Tatras). Next year with Andrzej Machnik send new route on North Pillar of Mały Durny Szczyt.

After his second winter season he was appreciated by elite climbers from Mountaineering Club and he could go to Dolomites in Italy. At this time Poland was communist country. Going abroad was hard and not for everyone. One of chance was climbing trip (organised by Mountaineering Club).

In Dolomites with partners send new route (Direttissima delli Polacci). At this ascent he was hit by stone, but all members of team end route. After this accident he spent 6 days in hospital and return to mountains. Restults: one new route and repeat Aste-Susati on Punta Civetta. He return to Dolomites in winter and do first winter ascent of Via dell'Ideale (soutrh face of  Marmolada d'Ombretta).

Summer of 1973 he go to Mount Blanc Massif. With Wojciech Kurtyka and Marek Łukaszewski do new route on Petit Dru (Petit Jean). At this trip he also do four first polish ascents (amont others: Major on Mount Blanc). In 1974 he ascend on Mt. McKinley (now Denali) on Alasca. He has several frostbites on toes and in generally he was weak on high altitiudes. One year later he get married with Cecylia Kukucza. On his honeymoon he do... new route on Grades Jorasses :-). 

At this time in Poland your climbing career look usually like this: Tatras, Dolomites, Alps (or Caucasus), Hindukush, Himalays or Karakorum. Kukuczka climbing career was almost like this :). In 1976 he goes to expedition to Hindukush. He ascent solo Kohe Awal and Kohe Tez. Two years later he return and do two more good ascents.

In 1981 he goes to New Zealand with Krzysztof Wielicki and Ryszard Pawłowski.

Kukuczka Eight-thousanders

Kukuczka's record shows why he is considered by many to be one of the best high-altitude climbers in history. He ascended all fourteen mountains in eight years, a shorter time than any climber before or since. In the process, Kukuczka established ten new routes and climbed four summits in winter. He was one of an elite group of Polish Himalayan mountaineers who specialised in winter ascents.

First time in Himalays he was in 1977. He tried Nanga Parbat, but without succes.

1979 — Lhotse - normal route

J. Kukuczka, A. Czok, A. Heinrich and J. Skorek climbed Lhotse’s normal (NE) route, in the ‘normal’ post-monsoon season– October 4, 1979. He reached the summit (without suplementar oxygen)

1980 — Mount Everest - new route

On 17 February 1980 Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki do first winter ascent on Mount Everest. Expedition leading by Andrzej Zawada leave Base Camp and some Camps (I and II) on normal route on Everest. Perfect for next - spring - polish expedition on Mount Everest. After one month preparation route to summit was ready. Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka summited on May 19, 1980, Everest got a new line up the South Pillar. This would be the only time that Kukuczka used supplementary O2.

1981 — Makalu - new route, solo

Already the next year, in 1981, Kukuczka reached a double goal on Makalu: A variation on Makalu La – the huge saddle between the main peak and Makalu II – and the NW Ridge, solo.

1982 — Broad Peak - normal route, alpine style

Next came Broad Peak: In 1982, Kukuczka returned to Himalaya with friend Wojciech Kurtyka to climb the normal route.

1983 — Gasherbrum I & II - new route, alpine style

Wojciech Kurtyka and Jerzy Kukuczka had climbed new routes on both Gasherbrum I and II – in alpine style.

1984 — Broad Peak - new route, alpine style

Kukuczka and Kurtyka returned – to open a new route, including the traverse of the Three Broad Peak’s summits.

1985 — Dhaulagiri - first winter ascent

1985 started out spectacular for Jurek: He climbed Dhaulagiri (with Andrzej Czok again) on January 21! On the descent they lost route and have hard bivaq (without tent).

1985 — Cho Oyu - second winter ascent, new route

And before the winter ended, he go alone to Base Camp on Cho Oyu (where was polish-canadian expedition). He joined three other climbers from Poland – Maciej Berbeka, Maciej Pawlikowski and Andrzej Heinrich – to the SE Pillar on Cho Oyu, for a first ascent. They summited February 15, and it was the first time a new route had been opened on an 8000er in winter. Kukuczka do two winter ascents in 25 days!

1985 — Nanga Parbat - new route

Summer of 1985, Jurek teamed up with Andrzej Heinrich, Krzysztof Łobodzinski and a young Mexican Carlos Carsolio (a future‘youngest’ climber to complete the 14 8000ers) – for another ‘first’: The SE Pillar of Nanga Parbat.

1986 — Kanchenjunga - first winter ascent

For his next 8000er, Jurek would patiently wait for the winter to close in. Only then would he climb Kanchenjunga, summiting the normal route on January 11, 1986. His climbing partner was Krzysztof Wielicki, another Polish ‘Ice Warrior'.

1986 — K2 - new route, alpine style

To maintain the level, the next peak could be no other than K2: And what Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski did there was a real lesson on extreme climbing. The route they opened on the South face is still a waiting a first repetition. The Kukuczka route, rarely attempted, combines sustained difficulty with ‘suicidal’ exposed passages. They summited July 7, but at a terrible prize: Piotrowski fell to his death ondescent, by the Abruzzi Spur (problem with crampons).

1986 — Manaslu - new route, alpine style

Jerzy climbed Manaslu that same year: Another first – again in winter conditions. On November 10, Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made a first ascent of the Manaslu NE face.

1987 — Annapurna I - first winter ascent

 After his early November climb on Manaslu, Jurek and Artur Hajzer summited Annapurna North Face on February 3, 1987. Hajzer returned to the mountains with Kukuczka already in September that same year. That’s when they made a first ascent of the East Ridgeon Shisha Pangma (Summit on September 18, 1987).

1987 — Shisha Pangma - new route, alpine style

Jerzy Kukuczka death

Jurek died attempting (with Ryszard Pawłowski) an alpine style climb of the unclimbed South Face of Lhotse in Nepal on 24 October 1989. Leading a pitch at an altitude of about 8,200 meters on a 6 mm second-hand rope he had picked up in a market in Kathmandu, the cord cut or snapped from a fall, plunging Kukuczka to his death. Pawłowski was in big trouble: Alone on 8200 on unclimbed face. Only years of experience help him on way down to Base Camp.

Jerzy Kukuczka left behind a widow (Cecylia Kukuczka and two children). One of them - Wojciech Kukuczka - later will do ascent on Mount Everest.

J. Kukuczka

Jerzy Kukuczka on summit of Nanga Parbat. Photo from archive. Jerzy Kukuczka

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Movie "Jerzy Kukuczka - legendary climber"

jerzy-kukuczka-my-vertical-world.jpg

 

Book cover Jerzy Kukuczka book: "My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peak". Oryginal title in polish: "Mój pionowy świat"

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Jerzy Kukuczka Ascents

Tatra Mountains

1971, 16-18 April - Mały Młynarz, E Face. First Winter Ascent of Kurtykówka. Team: Jerzy Kalla, Jerzy Kukuczka, Zbigniew Wach.

1917, 22 July - Wołowa Turnia, N Face. First polish ascent on Droga Pająków (Spiders Route). Team Jerzy Kukuczka, Marian Piekutowski, Janusz Skorek.

1971, 24-25 July - Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka, N Face. Heinrich-Chrobak Route. Team. Jerzy Kukuczka, Marian Piekutowski, Janusz Skorek, Zbigniew Wach.

1972, 3-6 January - Mały Młynarz, NE Face. First winter ascent on Direttissima. Team: Tadeusz Gibiński, Jerzy Kukuczka, Zbigniew Wach.

1972, 8-11 February - Młynarczyk, E Face. First winter ascent Biederman's Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Zbigniew Wach.

1972, 23-24 June - Mały Młynarz, E Face. New route Wielki Komin (Great Chimmey). Team: Danuta Gellner-Wach, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Skorek, Zbigniew Wach.

Dolomites

1972, 23-26 July - Torre Trieste, new route on S face. Team: Jerzy Kalla, Jerzy Kukuczka, Tadeusz Łaukajtys, Zbigniew Wach.

1972, 4-5 August - Bancon, New route on SE Pillar. Team: Jerzy Kalla, Jerzy Kukuczka, Tadeusz Łaukajtys, Zbigniew Wach.

1972, 7 August - Punta Civetta, Aste-Susatti route on SW Face. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Zbigniew Wach.

1973, 18-23 March - Marmolada d'Ombretta, S Face. First winter ascent on route Via dell'Ideale. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Kurczab, Marian Piekutowski, Janusz Skorek, Zbigniew Wach.

Alps

1973, 19 July - Aiguille du Moine. First polish ascent on Aureille-Fentren Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Marek Łukaszewski.

1973, 22 July - La Pell, Massiw Vercors. First polish ascent on Parish Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Marek Łukaszewski.

1973, 6 August - Mont Blanc, E Face. Major Route. Team: Beata Kozłowska, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Kurczab, Marek Łukaszewski.

1973, 12-14 August - Petit Dru, new route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.

1975, 3-4 August - Grandes Jorasses, N Face. New Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.

Hindukush

1976, 1 August - Kohe Awal (5800 m). New route, solo ascent.

1971, 10-11 August - Kohe Tez (7015 m). Team: J. Baranek, S. Cholewa, Jerzy Kukuczka, H. Natkaniec.

1978, 9 August - Tiricz Mir East (7692 m), first ascent on E ridge. Team. Jerzy Kukuczka, Tadeusz Piotrowski, Michał Wroczyński.

High Mountains

1979, 4 October - Lhotse, normal route. Alpine Style without oxygen. Team: Andrzej Czok, Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Skorek.

1980, 19 May - Mount Everest, new route, alpine style, without oxygen. Team: Andrzej Czok, Jerzy Kukuczka

1981, 15 October - Makalu, new route, solo, Alpine style, without oxygen. From Nepal.

1982, 30 July - Broad Peak - normal route, alpine style, without oxygen. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.

1983, 24 June - Gasherbrum II East (7772 m)

1983, 1 July - Gasherbrum II - new route (first ascent on E Ridge), alpine style, without oxygen. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.

1983, 23 July - Gasherbrum I - new route, alpine style. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka

1984, 17 July — Broad Peak - new route, alpine style. Traverse of massif Broad Peak. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.

1904 - Biarhedi (6759 m) - First ascent, solo, alpine style, without oxygen.

1985, 21 January - Dhaulagiri - first winter ascent. Without oxygen. Team: Andrzej Czok, Jerzy Kukuczka.

1985, 15 February - Cho Oyu - second winter ascent (first was 12 February: Maciej Berbeka, Maciej Pawlikowski on this same expedition) , new route on S Face. Team: Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka.

1985, 13 July - Nanga Parbat - new route on E Pillar. Without oxygen. Team: Carlos Carsolio, Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka, Sławomir Łobodziński.

1986, 11 January - Kanchenjunga - first winter ascent. Without oxygen. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki.

1986, 8 July - K2 - Polish Line, new route on S Face, alpine style. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Tadeusz Piotrowski (died on descent).

1986, 9 November - Manaslu (E peak) - new route, alpine style. Team: Carlos Carsolio, Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka.

1986, 10 November - Manaslu, new route, alpine style. Team: Carlos Carsolio (without summit ascent), Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka.

1987, 3 February - Annapurna I - first winter ascent. Team: Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka.

1987, 18 September - Shisha Pangma - new route, alpine style, without oxygen. Also they do first ascent on Shisha Pangma West (7950  m) and Middle peak (8008 m). Team: Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka. Near of summit they meet another team (Wanda Rutkiewicz, Ryszard Warecki, Carlos Carsolio, Ramiro Navarette).

1987 - Yebokalgan Ri (7365 m) - First ascent on Summti. West ridghe, alpine style, without oxygen.

1988, 13 October - Annapurna I East (8010 m), new route. alpine style. Team: Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka 

Others

1971 - Bulgaria, Riła. New route on Devils Needle

1981 - New Zeland. New Routes on S and W face of Malte Brum. 

Jerzy Kukuczka quotes

  • At a time when you stay at the top, there is no explosion of happiness - happiness is experienced when everything remains in front of you, when you know that you have to a goal a few hundred, a few dozen meters when you are right in front. This is the time of happiness. Jerzy Kukuczka
  • Within a month of intense life in the mountains is going through so much, what used to be a period of several years; This is a occupancy for people greedy for life - human life is not enough. Jerzy Kukuczka
  • The closer to the top, the more grew in me the belief that it might be fulfilled, which most dreaming. Jerzy Kukuczka
  • I am not enough to be only in the mountains, not enough to be on an expedition. I believe that if the walks uphill, then with some goal, and that goal is to climb to the top. Jerzy Kukuczka
  • If we successful, we will enter into the history of mountaineering, we will have the opportunity to its success to sacrifice our colleagues. Jerzy Kukuczka
  • There is no response to stubbornly by many posed the question of the meaning of expeditions in the high mountains. I've never felt the need for such a definition. I walked to mountains and defeated them. That's all. Jerzy Kukuczka
  • Climbing is a great effort, but the extraordinary pleasure". Jerzy Kukuczka
  • I agree to the fight. The award, which is getting for these hardships, it is exorbitantly large. It is the joy of life. Jerzy Kukuczka

Translated by Damian Granowski (here you will find original quotes (in polish))

Gallery of Jerzy Kukuczka photos

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Mon, 24 Oct 2016 00:00:00 +0000
Blue https://winterclimb.com/video/item/2-blue-movie-about-japan-alps https://winterclimb.com/video/item/2-blue-movie-about-japan-alps Blue

Do you know, that 90% territory of Japan is mountains? Watch this beautiful April virgin snow and awe-inspiring mountains (Northern Japan Alps).

 

{vimeo}66309890{/vimeo}

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Thu, 13 Jun 2013 00:00:00 +0000