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Home - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Thu, 19 May 2022 14:38:52 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb Black Eagle M13 https://winterclimb.com/news/item/15-black-eagle-m13-drytooling-route-korea https://winterclimb.com/news/item/15-black-eagle-m13-drytooling-route-korea profile fb Young Hye Kwon

In Korea Young Hye Kwon send a new dry-tooling route. Black Eagle has grade M13. 37 meters long (30 in roof).

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) News Wed, 18 Dec 2013 12:03:00 +0000
David Göttler https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/14-david-gottler https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/14-david-gottler David Göttler

He was born in 1978. David’s passion for mountains started at age of 7 with his father climbing in the Alps. He traveled with his family to exciting and adventurous places like Hoggar mountains in the African desert or to Iceland. After finishing high school, he began with the education for becoming a professional mountain guide and soon later he became a member of the first Expedition Team for Youth athletes in the German Alpine Club. Now he live in Munich.

 In this winter He go to Nanga Parbat with Simone Moro. They will try to climb Nanga by first time in winter.

David Göttler. Fot. TNF

Career Highlights:

- "Supercanaleta" on Fitz Roy in Patagonia (2003)
- 8000m peaks summits: GasherbrumII, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu
- 8000m attempts: two times on K2 (8611m) up to 8200m
- Ama Dablam (6856m) north face new route attempt: failed because we got stuck on the North Ridge at 6400m
- as an expedition leader with the German Youth Alpine Team successful on 3 firstascents on an unclimbed 5900m mountain in the Minya Konga range
- climbed Chimborazzo ( 6300m) and the 5000m mountains Cotopaxi and Illiniza norte with a client
- winter climbs of the 3 big famous north faces: Eiger, Grand Jorasse and Matterhorn
- climbing the bold alpine route "Mythomania" in the home mountains of "Wilden Kaiser"
- the icefalls of "Merlin" and "Krönung", WI6, Zillertal, Austria

Other Activities:
- actual coach of the national German Youth Expedition Team
- instructor in the German Mountain Guide Association

Personal Note:
Mountain climbing to me is far more than a hobby. It’s my life, my passion, it’s always present. It both fulfils and challenges me like no other occupation. I love the elements: the ice, the wind, the snow. I love being exposed, being outdoors, being part of a great adventure. I value the friendship, the very nature and presence of which I experience on the mountain. In fully concentrating on every single move, in knowing which consequences even the smallest mistake might have, I discover a new challenge each time.
Taking on this challenge means nothing less than – being alive.

Source: The North Face

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Wed, 11 Dec 2013 16:48:52 +0000
Worn Wear https://winterclimb.com/video/item/13-worn-wear https://winterclimb.com/video/item/13-worn-wear Worn Wear

Worn Wear is an exploration of quality -- in the things we own and the lives we live. This short film, from Patagonia, takes you to an off-the-grid surf camp in Baja, Mexico; a family's maple syrup harvest in Contoocook, New Hampshire; an organic farm in Ojai, California; and into the lives of a champion skier, a National Geographic photographer, and a legendary alpinist. It also features exclusive interviews with Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard. Released as an antidote to the Black Friday and Cyber Monday shopping frenzy, Worn Wear is an invitation to celebrate the stuff you already own.

 

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You can also use this clues to your stuff like phones, computers, cars, etc.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Tue, 03 Dec 2013 10:26:50 +0000
10 best climbing, mountaineering websites https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/12-10-best-climbing-mountaineering-websites-blogs https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/12-10-best-climbing-mountaineering-websites-blogs 10 best climbing, mountaineering websites

Are you a maniac of climbing, especially in winter? Your environment is a rock/ice/snow? Here you have 10 websites, which are worth your time :)

10. davemacleod.blogspot.com

Dave MacLeod is one of the all-round best climbers in UK (Scotland). There is lot stuff about trening and climbing

9. alpineexposures.com

Jonathan Griffith blog about alpine climbing near of Chamonix. Jon is awesome climbing photograf and on this blog you will find some his magnificent photos!

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8. up-climbing.com

7. thebmc.co.uk

Website British Mountain Council.

6. summitpost.org

summitpost.org – is a collaborative content community focused on climbing, mountaineering, hiking and other outdoor activities. This site is built by its members. On summitpost.org you will find practical info about climbing on mountains. Internet database of peaks, summit is… huge :).


5. explorersweb.com

4. climbing.com

The best USA climbing website. Lot of good content and really nice climbing pictures.

3. ukclimbing.com

British website about climbing. You will find here everthing. News, articles, topo, nice forum. Content from bouldering to alpine climbing.

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2. planetmountain.com

Italian website where you have climbing news (italian and english language). Also lot of topo and interviews. I think that planetmountain is the best climbing news website on the world (in english).

1. alpinist.com

Probably the best paper magazine about climbing. Website has also lot of good content. Climbing news are well prepared. Texts are very good.


Also check: Climbing forums on the world.

Last but no least ;) - Please. You can like on fb my blog WinterClimb where you have there topos, some nice information about mountaineering, ice climbing, dry-tooling and other stuff :). I very rarely write something about me :). Check below:

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Sun, 10 Nov 2013 19:03:29 +0000
The Frost Giants https://winterclimb.com/video/item/11-the-frost-giants https://winterclimb.com/video/item/11-the-frost-giants The Frost Giants

Check this awesome video, about night ice climbing.

The Frost Giants of Norse mythology were huge, cold and practically indomitable. At night they taught the people of the North to fear, only to freeze again the next day. In January 2013, extreme sports photographer Thomas Senf headed off for Norway with a team of fearless Mammut ice climbers. The plan was to set the professional athletes against the nocturnal backdrop of the legendary world of the Frost Giants using flares and spotlights. The project produced unique photos, the likes of which the world has never seen before.

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Find out more about the story on Mammut blog.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Sat, 09 Nov 2013 09:29:01 +0000
Keeper of the Mountains Trailer https://winterclimb.com/video/item/10-keeper-of-the-mountains-trailer https://winterclimb.com/video/item/10-keeper-of-the-mountains-trailer Keeper of the Mountains Trailer

Who don't knows, about Miss Hawley? Here you have trailer " Keeper of the Mountains". Enjoy :)

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Videos Sat, 02 Nov 2013 19:38:26 +0000
Climbing excuses https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/8-climbing-excuses https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/8-climbing-excuses Climbing excuses

Sometimes you don't want climb, because you are afraid, weak, route is too hard, the shelter is warm.... But you cannot told your partner, that you are weak! You just must tell him some excuse.

 

Below you have some examples :-)

"I'am so weak today" - Number one!

"There were no conditions" - perfect excuse for mountaineering :-)

Damm - I take wrong shoes/crampons/Ice tools/etc.

"Damm - I Forgot rope/quickdraws/ice tools/crampons/etc." - Before climbing you must tell, that you will take this gear.

"I lost... Stove/ice tool/etc." - expensive, pathetic but effective. You must lost this gear in place, where retreat is easy.

My ice tools/crampons are blunt

I broke my gear

The sun was in my eyes.

The rain/storm is coming

There was too great avalanche risk

Forgot to trim my nails.

I had the flu last week... so I'm recovering

I forgot to get the beta for that one section.

This problem seems harder than last time.

I'm not used to (sandstone/granite/quartzite/gritstone/rhyolite/mud).

I'm not used to (sport/trad/ice climbing/dry-tooling/mountaineering).

I think a hold must have broken off.

Can't do that route without a rope nobody nearby will offer to loan you.

Let's do something else to warm up first.

Weather's looking iffy.

I'd do it, but this is my old rope and I don't want to take falls on it.

I'd do it, but this is my new rope and I don't want to take falls on it.

I'd do it, but I don't have time today.

I'd do it, but route was ugly/stupid.

I'd do it, but today I'am lazy.

I'd do it, but there was queue to this route.

I'd lead it, but my partner would have trouble following it.

I'd lead it, but I'am too short.

We were going to do it, but somebody was on it.

I haven't eaten enough today.

I just ate.

I just ate a big meal.

I'm dehydrated

It's my 3-7 day of climbing without rest

It's too early.

It's too late.

It's too wet

I don't have skin on fingers

Bolt was moving

The route has dangerous bolts

Something bite me (mosquito/ant/bee/wasp)

Holds are getting too polished from all the climbers.

These pants restrict my motion too much.

Hmm, I'am probably ill today

Something hit me!

I slipped!

You wanna lead ?

Beta was incorrect...

We did not get permit to our Mountain

This is 7b/M10/5.12!? Impossible!

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:40:03 +0000
Carabiners - How make climbing gear (part 1) https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/7-carabiners-how-make-climbing-gear-part-1 https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/7-carabiners-how-make-climbing-gear-part-1 Carabiners - How make climbing gear (part 1)

Enjoy first part of "Making climbing gear"

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Sat, 08 Jun 2013 00:00:00 +0000
Krzysztof Wielicki - Flying Horse https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/6-krzysztof-wielicki https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/6-krzysztof-wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki - Flying Horse

One of the most outstanding high-altitude mountaineers is Krzysztof Wielicki from Poland. He climb all fourteen eight-thousanders (fifth man on the world). With Leszek Cichy he did first winter ascent to Mount Everest. Krzysztof climb also in winter Lhotse and Kangchenjunga. He is member of The Explorers Club.

Krzysztof Wieliski was born on 5 January, 1950. He is engineer of electronic. Today he is CEO of company which distribute outdoor goods (for example Grivels) in Poland. 

He started climbing in Sokoliki Mountains in Poland when he was 20 years old. In Tatras he climb from 1970 (summer and winter. New routes on Jastrzębia Turnia and Jaworowy Szczyt. First winter ascents on Kazalnica Mięguszowiecka (the hardest Polish winter wall)).  In Alps he climb on Punta Civetta, Pan di Zucchero and Punta Tissi. In Caucasus on Kosztan-tau, Dych-tau and Krumkol. In Hindu Kusk he do new route on Szachaur. 

In 1978 he start mountaineering in Himalays (ascent on Annapurna South).

on 17 February, 1980 with Leszek Cichy, made first winter ascent on Mount Everest.  That was also first ever winter ascent on 8000 meter peak.

After that Krzysztof Wielicki also completed all fourteen eight-thousanders. Some of them in winter, some by new routes. He need fot this 16 years.

Krzysztof Wielicki after descent from Nanga Parbat. Photo. arch. Krzysztof Wielicki

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The most important ascents of Krzysztof Wielicki

17 February, 1980 - Mount Everest, normal route from Nepal. First winter ascent (!), also first ever winter ascent of a summit ofa a 8000 meter peak. Team: Leszek Cichy, Krzysztof Wielicki.

14 July, 1984 - Broad Peak, normal route, solo. First - ever -  ascent on 8000 meter peak in 24 hours (16 hours up, 6 hours down). After this ascent climbers from base do a nickname for Wielicki: "Flying Horse".

20 October, 1984 - Manaslu, new route on SE face. Team: Aleksander Lwow.

11 January, 1986 - Kangchenjunga, normal route. First winter ascent. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki.

24 September, 1986 - Makalu, SW ridge and N face. New variation on French Route. Team: Marcel Rüedi, Krzysztof Wielicki.

31 December, 1988 - Lhotse, W face (normal route), solo. First winter ascent.

24 April, 1990 - Dhaulagiri, new route on E face, solo (16 hours from base to peak).

21 October, 1991 - Annapurna, by British route on S face. Team: Bogdan Stefko, Krzysztof Wielicki.

1992 - Manaslu, normal route. Team: Marco Bianchi, Christian Kuntner, Krzysztof Wielicki.

18 September, 1993 -  Cho Oyu, by Polish route. Team: Marco Bianchi, Krzysztof Wielicki.

7 October, 1993 - Shisha Pangma, new route on S face, solo.

9 July, 1995 - Gasherbrum II, normal route, solo.

15 July, 1995 - Gasherbrum I, Japan route, alpine style. 30 hours from base bo peak. Team: Jacek Berbeka, Carlos Carsolio, Krzysztof Wielicki, Ed Viesturs.

10 August, 1996 - K2, Japan route. Team: Marco Bianchi, Christian Kuntner, Krzysztof Wielicki

1 September, 1996 - Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer route, solo

26 July, 2006 - Gasherbrum II. Team: Rafał Fronia, Robert Jucha, Paweł Podsiadło, Krzysztof Wielicki, Zbigniew Zimniewicz.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Sat, 07 Nov 2015 00:00:00 +0000
Best climber's blogs https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/4-best-climbers-blogs-and-websites https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/4-best-climbers-blogs-and-websites

Lot of climbers have websites where you can read something about this person, but sometimes website is very good blog, where you can read about climbing trips, etc. Here you have list of climbers, who have nice blog.

 

Dave MaCleod

Jonathan Griffith

Raphael Slawinski

Will Gadd

Ueli Steck

Greg Boswell

Steve House

Joe Kinder

Mick Fowler

Nick Bullock

Tommy Caldwell

Steph Davis

Ines Papert

Robert Jasper

 

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Mon, 03 Jan 2011 00:00:01 +0000