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Home - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Wed, 27 Oct 2021 20:09:28 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb BD Cyborg crampons, after 4 years– Long Term Review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/119-black-diamond-cyborg-review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/119-black-diamond-cyborg-review BD Cyborg crampons, after 4 years– Long Term Review

This year my Black Diamond Cyborg crampons will be retired – after four years and kilometres of climbing in ice and rock:-). I think is good time to do some review this all-round crampons.

Here you have description from Black Diamond Company

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Designed for technical ice routes and steep mixed climbing, the Black Diamond Cyborg Pro Crampons feature a lightweight stainless steel design that enhances durability and protects against rusting and snowballing.

The adjustable, hooded front points bite hard in vertical water ice and provide precise edging while dry tooling

Can be set up with either dual or single points

The rear heel clip features a micro-adjustment system for a secure fit

Dual-density ABS plates keeps snow from sticking to the bottom of these crampons

Ideal for steep ice and mixed climbing

Item #BLD0483

Tech Specs

Material: steel

Boot Compatibility

step-in Front Points dual

Number of Points: 12

Anti-balling plates: yes

Claimed Weight[pair]: 1120 gram

Recommended Use: ice/mixed climbing, mountaineering

Manufacturer Warranty1 year


Mixed climbing (on ski tour boots) in Tatras.. Fot. Cezary Klus

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Climbing Review

Cyborgs are crampons dedicated to ice/mixed climbing and mountaineering. We have choice to use in them mono or dual point, which is great advantage for different type of climbing. In fact you have 3 different types of crampons! If you want a single crampon that can climb in three different modes and you don’t mind a little extra weight, the Cyborg should be your type.

Personally I prefer mono point (especially in Tatra mountains). Dual point usually I used on snow type climbing routes.

I climb with them in different types of mountaineering boots: TNF Verto S6K (here you have outdoor review), TNF Verto Extreme S6K (here you have outdoor review), Dynafit TLT 3 (skitour boots) and Bestard Fitz Roy. Cyborgs stay well on this boots (but on other types could be different).

Also my friend says that they perfect fit to: Boreal Stetind, La Sportiva Trango ALP Gtx, Batura 2.0 and Dynafit tlt5.

I prefer monopoint system, then I cut hole in antibot plates to better set single point. Unfortunately it was difficult to proper cut this hole. After 1-2 hours (and involves a hacksaw) of working I achieved success… But in crampons for 200 bucks producent should prepare something better.

You can place single point without cutting hole in your snow plate, but it will be more demanding for your calf to stay on small footholds and holes in ice.

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Front of my Cyborg before retiring ;-). Photo Damian Granowski

In general if You climb usually on mono point, then maybe better choice will be to buy Black Diamond Stinger Crampons (960 gram pair). 

Cyborg has heel clip features a micro-adjustment system for a secure fit, but after 3 years of using I have problem with them. Steel wire “jump” in plastic hole when I placed crampons on my boot. After that it was loose on my heel. I solved this problem with climbing tape, but… you know… crampons for 200 $...

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Photo Damian Granowski

Strap are quite long, then you can cut them for your shoes. 

I climb in them routes to M10 and WI6. They stay well on foot and small crimps, penetrate ice and frozen grass. What else you need :-)?


Ice climbing in Tatras. Photo Bartłomiej Szeliga

Weight of Cyborg (pair)

Monopoint – no antibot – 940 gram

Dual Point – no antibot – 1000 gram

Dual Point – with antibot – 1120 gram

If you want a single crampon that can climb in three different modes and you don’t mind a little extra weight, the Cyborg might be the your choice. Especially on steep ice and winter mixed climbing.

BTW

Here you have another option for old crampons. Front designed by Rzeszowska Kuźnia Szpeju for ~200 złoty (50 euro).

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Sat, 14 Jan 2017 07:53:14 +0000
Eiger / Heckmair Route ED2 (classic!) https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/118-heckmair-route-eiger-north-face https://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/118-heckmair-route-eiger-north-face Eiger / Heckmair Route ED2 (classic!)

There are routes which every alpine climber want to do. One of them is Heckmair Route on North Face of Eiger, biggest wall in The Alps. Wall with history – before the first ascent in 1938, there died some climbers and wall has new nickname „Mordwand”. Today Heckmair Route is hard classic alpine route and usually teams needs 2 days of climbing. But speed record is below 3 hours…

We (Michał Dorocicz and Damian Granowski) climb North Face of Eiger in 2016 (22-23 March). Below you have description and topo of Heckmair Route. Original article (in polish) you will find here: drytooling.com.pl.

Grade: ED2, V+, WI4. On Heckmair Route are fixed lines (Hinterstoiser Traverse, etc.), but if You want to climb everything free then prepare for M7+ (in good conditions).
Length: 4 km and 1800 meters of denivelation
Time: 1-2 days. Usually two days.
Localization: North Face of Eiger / Grindelwald (Switzerland)
Character: snow/ice fields 50-70 degrees, chimneys, mixt,
First ascent: 1938, 20-24 July - Heinrich Harrer, Anderl Heckmair, Fritz Kasparek and Ludwig Vörg.
First one-day ascent: 1950 - Leo Forstenlechner and Erich Wascak (18 hours).
First winter ascent: 1961, 6-12 March - Walter Almberger, Toni Hiebeler, Toni Kinshofer and Anderl Mannhardt.

These days the most popular time for climbing on North Face of Eiger is late autumn, winter, and early spring. In summer – due to global warming – conditions are not good. A lot of loose rock (which in winter are frozen) and falling stones.

Here you have some tips:

Heckmair Route isn’t extreme alpine route but rather “hard alpine classic” but don’t disrespect difficulties.
- In general, the route is hard, rock is rotten with demanding protection. You will find old pitons, some bolts. On harder pitches protection is better.
- falling stones. In summer much more
- There are some fixed lines but be careful. Some of them are not in good shape ;)
- Do proper acclimatization. In higher parts of the route, you must be quick. Maybe tray something easy and quick (like Breithorn).
- Go when conditions are ok.
- Almost half of the route you do on simul-climbing. Take good partner...

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To Grindenwald go by your own car (40 euros for a vignette on a highway). There you will find accommodation on campings (10-15 euro) or apartments (from 60 franks).

Grindelwald lay on 1000 m a.s.l.. The base of Eiger North Face on 2160 m a.s.l.. The best option is to go by small historic train. You go to Kleinescheidegg (2000 m) and after that to station Eigergletscher.
From there we go to base of the wall (short traverse).

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Fototopo of Heckmair Route. Credits: Damian Granowski

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The first part of the route (about 800 meters) is “easy” and in good conditions, you can go to Difficult Crack almost free solo.
We start on the right side of First Pillar (about 200 meters) and follow the easiest line. There are many variations, but all are quite easy (with some short rock sections).

After 150 meters (at the Shattered Pillar height) we go to the right and soon to the left. Traverse on snow ledges and when you will be on snowfield (with overhang wall above) then you go 50 meters to right.
There will be Difficult Crack (Belay pegs, old slings).

Difficult Crack is… well Difficult, even if has V- (M5+). One pitch and we are on Belay. From there you go to the left to small rock Dihedral. After that, you have easy snow terrain which leads you to Hinterstoisser Traverse.

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Climbing after the Difficult Crack. Photo: Michał Dorocicz

Travers is very hard for mixed climbing. Almost without steps and holds. After 30 seconds I decided to aid this :-). There are 60 meters of fixed lines (traverse and small chimney). Pitch end on belay on beginning First Icefield.

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On The Hinterstoisser Traverse. Photo: Michał Dorocicz

We go 100 meters (snow/ice to 55 degrees) to the upper right, where is Ice Hose. 20 meters of Icefall (if you have good conditions something about WI3-4). 30 m above Icefall you will find “good” belay on the big boulder.

Now we are on Second Ice Field. We go straight ahead to rocks. After that run to the left, across the icefield to the upper left corner. There climb chimney, groove and easy terrain to the Death Bivvy.

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Michał Dorocicz on the Second Ice Field

On the Death Bivvy, you will find a place (snow ledge) for 4 persons. Clean rock and lot of old pegs and bolts. At the 18.00 pm, there will be sun ;-).
The Death Bivvy is probably the best place to spend a night, but if you are here very early (14-15.00) then try to push The Ramp and spend a night on Traverse of Gods.

From the Death Bivvy, we traverse to a big ramp. There are 4-5 pitches (circa 150 m) of climbing. Including Ice Chimney (M7 in good conditions, a lot of pitons). In the middle of The Ramp is Spanish Bivvy, but is weak…

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Begining of the Ramp

Above the Ice chimney is one small wall – hard and demanding. After that is easy climbing in snow and ice. We go to the start of Brittle Ledges (possibly bivy). Traverse them to start of the Brittle Crack – one V+ pitch with quite good rock (especially after The Brittle Ledges).

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Climbin above the Ice Chimney. Photo: Michał Dorocicz

After the Brittle Crack, you will find a flat place for a bivy (one team). I'm not sure, but place probably is windy. And then you have The Traverse of the Gods. 150 meters to The White Spider. Quite exposed but easy (max IV).

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The Traverse of the Gods

You reach The White Spider, Snow/Ice field in the upper part of the wall. From there retreat was difficult. Climb 150 m to the right (big Gully). Be careful not to go to left, big corner with ice – but hard.
Once more 150 meters of climbing in a gully and you will be at the base of The Quartz Crack. Difficult (IV+. SIC!?) chimney.
After that you traverse to the left and climb a small crack to the big pulpit. Here you will find fixed lines which lead you to the Exit Chimneys.

The Exit Chimneys can be pretty hard (but only IV) in weak conditions. Climb them 3-4 pitches (circa 150 m) to the easier terrain which leads you to snow / ice field. Above them will be a ridge.

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Ridge is easy and in good conditions you won’t need rope. To summit, you need 15-20 minutes of climbing.

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If you want more mountaineering topo articles in future, then click to like funpage WinterClimb.com :)

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Below movie from Heckmair Route (2014 - Tomasz Klimczak and Maciej Janczar)

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and master Ueli Steck...

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Climbing Gear for Heckmair Route

We had double 60 m rope, but I think that better will be single 60 m rope (for climbers who have enough experience).
- 10 quickdraws (5 alpine quickdraws)
- set C3 Camalots
- set DMM Dragons (to yellow)
- 7 Wallnuts DMM
- 3 ice screws (blue one size)

No pitons were taken and we didn't feel we needed any.

My personal rack:

- 2 Raptors (Elite climb Ice tool)
- BD Cyborg Crampons (monopoint)
- light Mammut helmet
- CT Ascent Harness
- Fixe Frog Belay Device
- 3 CT hms
- TNF Verto S6k Extreme, double boots
- El Cap Montano Softshell
- adidas Terrex ndosphere jacket (primaloft)
- adidas terrex GTX Active Shell
- adidas Terrex icefeather pant
- Cortina Montano
- under wear clothing (Bruebeck and Odlo)
- Monkeys Grip Gloves (model DT and PowerLoad)
- Smartwool soocks

Bivvy gear:

- Jetboil + gas
- sleeping bag
- mat
- bivvy bag
- food (sweets, 2-3 freeze-dried meals)

Descent from Eiger

We descent by normal route on Eiger (West Face). In good conditions descent took circa 3 hours (to Eigergletscher). Here you will find more info: Eiger West Face.

 

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Mountain Base Tue, 01 Nov 2016 19:32:54 +0000
Best ice climbing in Norway https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/117-best-ice-climbing-spots-norway https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/117-best-ice-climbing-spots-norway Photo: Thomas Senf

Norway is Mecca for Ice Climbers from around the World. Tousands of icefalls and excellent conditions in winter. In this article you will find some propositions for unforgettable ice climbing holidays. In Norway you can find routes from single pitch up to 800-1000 m in length (sic!). If your an experienced ice climber then Norway is a trip of a lifetime :-).

Climbing ice on the coasts of Norway has its specialities: Due their proximity to the sea the icefalls in the western fjords are bent are twisted creations. Massive storms, drastic changes in temperature, and the resulting fast freeze thaw cycles combine with long spells of warmth and rain lead to insane ice creations.

Coming to Norway without solid planning and an eye to the weather means playing roulette with your travel budget: you run the risk of experiencing a period of rain and thaw and the objects of your journey simply vanish in the changing conditions.

Rjukan – Telemark Region

This is the best location in Norway to find stable ice climbing conditions (November – March) and icefalls at all skill level. Rjukan in deep valley with over 150 established ice climbs all concentrated in a very small area and is easy to reach just 2.5 hr drive from Oslo (airport). In city Rjukan you will find accommodation.

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New this year Rjukan has one of the nicest Ice Parks where they “farming” fresh ice just 5 minute walk from our beautiful lodge the Climbing. In general You will need a car to get around the area if you do not want to be limited to the routes close to the town centre. The vast majority of the routes are all within 20 km of 
the town.

Icefall Lipton WI7. Photo: Andrzej Makarczuk / wspinanie.pl

Classic single or multi-pitch routes range from easy WI 3 – WI 6 and all approaches are generally short and logistically easy. There is also an alpine skiing centre at Gaustablikk

Below nice movie "Rjukan Ice Paradise" by polish director Jan Wierzejski

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Hemsedal – Buskerud Region

If you want to combine Ice Climbing and Skiing then Hemsedal is the best choice. Here you have plenty of classic routes and one of Norway’s better ski areas all in the same valley. Routes at all levels but not the plethora that can be found in other parts of Norway.

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Gudvangen

Gudvangen in western Norway is home to several world-class routes. These lines provide around 1000 meter of continuous steep ice-climbing. Some of the lines are climbed, but the greatest line was still untouched before Robert Jasper introduced his climbing ethics to Norway

Eidfjord – Hordaland Region

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Måbødalen - Eidfjor. Photo: Matthias Scherer (source)

Eidfjord is considered a must visit location for ice climbers who want to explore new routes or just experience huge steep icefalls. It is a beautiful small village within the fantastic Hardangar Fjord. Here you can climb ice routes above the fjord and have access to long classic routes.

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Northern Norway – Lofoten, Lyngen Alps, or Bodø

This remote region offers an abundance of established challenges, as well as considerable potential for new routing. The dark winter days north of the Polar Circle allows for climbing all winter but this area is best in late February – March when the light comes back and gives long enough days to climb these routes without having to climb by headlamp. But prepare for long approach.

Wspinaczka lodowa w Norwegii

Climbing in Lyngen Alps. Photo. Hannes Mair (source)

Hidden Gems

If your looking for a real adventure and want to climb some first ascents in Norway then is good area for you.  This kind of trip requires special planning and probably help from local climbers.

Check also Scotland.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Fri, 21 Oct 2016 13:35:47 +0000
10 of the Best Ice and Rock Climbing Destinations in Europe https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/116-10-of-the-best-ice-and-rock-climbing-destinations-in-europe https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/116-10-of-the-best-ice-and-rock-climbing-destinations-in-europe 10 of the Best Ice and Rock Climbing Destinations in Europe

Europe is home to a lot of hiking and climbing trips. Compared to other regions, Europe has the most mountain ranges that are conveniently spread throughout the continent. Whatever country you’re visiting in Europe, chances are, you will only be a few hours drive from a good climbing spot.

 

Sardinia, Italy

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Despite being a really small island, Sardinian is quickly becoming a climber's favourite. Its mild temperature in winter makes this place a great place to escape the scorching heat of the sun.

Sardinia is bolted with almost 4,000 sport routes and 1,000 multi-pitches. It is thanks to the efforts of veteran climbers and passionate locals who want to create climbing problems for all grades that Sardinia is now a climber’s haven.

Lofoten Islands, Norway

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Lofoten Islands is a small island chain that is 125 miles north of the Arctic Circle. It is home to some of the best climbs in Europe.

The mountains in Lofoten Islands aren't very high but they are the most beautiful in the region. The highest peak, Higraftindan, reaches only 1,161 meters but the fact that they rise straight from the sea makes this peak awe-inspiring and extraordinary in its own right.

Ulamertorsuaq, Greenland

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Ulamertorsuaq has 4 peaks with heights of 1,858 metres, 1843 meters, 1829 meter, and 1825 meters. The 1,843 metres high peak is the most popular among climbers because of the challenge its perpendicular cliff presents. It is also favoured due to its extremely firm granite structure that is similar to other summits such as Napasorsuaq and Ketil.

Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites is a mountain range located northeast of Italy. They are part of the Southern Limestone Alps, and extend from the River Adige to Piave Valley. The uniqueness of the landscape offered by the mountains of Dolomites has allowed the place to be considered a World Heritage Site.

Kalymnos, Greece

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Kalymnos is a Greek Island in the Southeastern Aegean Sea. It offers rock climbing and bouldering the whole year round but it is commonly visited during the summer months because Greek locals like to escape the mainland heat. At the end of October, colder winds come in from the north and bring winter, making this a popular destination for winter climbers.

Glymsgil, Iceland

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Glymsgil is often compared to the Box Canyon in Colorado. Glymsgil, like its American counterpart, is one of the best ice climbing destinations in the world. A lot of good routes exist here, with the best weather coming in from December to February.

Frontier Ridge, France

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Frontier Ridge houses a mountain called Mont Maudit, which is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massic in France and Italy. Mont Maudit literally means "cursed mountain" due to the fact that its terrains are extremely difficult to traverse. Mount Maudit stands at 4,465 meters, and can be extremely unforgiving when it comes to the weather.

Samaria Gorge, Greece

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Samaria Gorge is a national park in Greece. The gorge is in the southwest of Crete in the regional retreat of Chania, and it was formed over many years by a small river running between the White Mountains and Mt. Volakias. There are several terrains here for mountaineers to enjoy and explore.

Múlafjall, Iceland

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Múlafjall is a popular climbing area near Reykjavík. It has a 1.5-mile long cliff face, with dozens of routes of varying grades for different climbers.

Cullen Ridge, Scotland

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Cullen Ridge, which is located on the Isle of Sky, has over 30 peaks. None of the peaks are high in altitude or difficult to climb, making it the perfect spot for novice climbers.

Climbing has become a popular activity over the years thanks not only to the enthusiasts who blog about their feats but to the media as well who cover events. Apart from high profile news coverage and magazine features, the media has acknowledged climbing’s popularity by creating TV shows and games based on the pursuit.

Reel Rock is one of the most popular television shows that covers climbing which followed Emmy-winning adventure filmmakers Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer on some of their most daring attempts to capture exhilarating sites.

There's also the video game The Climb, which is a virtual-reality climbing gaming title. The Climb has adopted the revolutionary VR headsets in an attempt to innovate the virtual climbing experience. For casuals who aren’t fond of VR tech, there are several titles that use climbing as their core theme. Hosted on gaming and slot site Betfair there are titles such as Ice Run and the popular Wild Gambler: Arctic Adventure, both of which are a nod to the dangerous yet equally rewarding lives of climbers.

No matter what the generation, climbing will always garner a strong following, not just because this thrill seeking activity gets mainstream coverage, but because there will always be adventurers looking to conquer challenging climbs.

Do you have a favourite climbing spot? Let us know which you feel are the best in the world in our comments section below.

Image credit: all images obtained from Pixabay

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Thu, 29 Sep 2016 07:18:26 +0000
Reinhold Messner famous quotes https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/115-reinhold-messner https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/115-reinhold-messner Reinhold Messner famous quotes

Reinhold Messner, born in 1944 and raised in the South Tyrol's Villnöss Valley among the Dolomite mountains of northern Italy, is simply one of the greatest mountaineers of the 20th century. Is famous for making the first documented solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen.

Messner's Climbing Resume

Solo first ascents on the great faces of the Dolomite mountains in northern Italy.
The forbidding North Face (Nordwand) of Switzerland's Eiger climbed in a quick 10 hours with Peter Habeler in 1974.
The first person, along with partner Habeler, to climb Mount Everest, highest mountain in the world, without supplemental oxygen in 1978.
The first solo ascent of Mount Everest in 1980, and by a new route!
The first person to climb all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, the world's highest mountains.
The second person to climb the Seven Summits, the highest points on the seven continents.
Later Messner made expeditions to the North and South Poles, crossed the Gobi Desert in central Asia on foot; and researched and wrote a book about the infamous Yeti.

Reinhold Messner quotes

"Mountains are not fair or unfair, they are just dangerous."

“Not only during the ascent, but also during the descent my willpower is dulled. The longer I climb the less important the goal seems to me, the more indifferent I become to myself. My attention has diminished, my memory is weakened. My mental fatigue is now greater than the bodily. It is so pleasant to sit doing nothing--and therefore so dangerous. Death through exhaustion is like death
through freezing--a pleasant one.”

"Without the possibility of death, adventure is not possible."

"My market value increases with every outside critisism. Therefore, the frequently raised contention that I am the most highly critisized mountaineer does not disturb me in the slightest."

"I do this for myself because I am my own fatherland, and my handkerchief is my flag."

"I always take the same perspective with each new adventure. I put myself in the position of being at the end of my life looking back. Then I ask myself if what I am doing is important to me."

"In my state of spiritual abstraction, I no longer belong to myself and to my eyesight. I am nothing more than a single narrow gasping lung, floating over the mists and summits."

"Bolts are the murder of the impossible."

“When I rest I feel utterly lifeless except that my throat burns when I draw breath... I can scarcely go on. No despair, no happiness, no anxiety. I have not lost the mastery of my feelings, there are actually no more feelings. I consist only of will. After each few meters this too fizzles out in unending tiredness. Then I think nothing. I let myself fall, just lie there. For an indefinite time I remain completely irresolute. Then I make a few steps again.”

"I was in continual agony; I have never in my life been so tired as on the summit of Everest that day. I just sat and sat there, oblivious to everything...."

"If you have a high-way on Everest, you don't meet the mountain. If everything is prepared, and you have a guide who is responsible for your security, you cannot meet the mountain. Meeting mountains is only possible if you . . . are out there in self-sufficiency."

"I want to solve a climbing problem in the mountains, not in the sporting goods store."

"The wonderful things in life are the things you do, not the things you have."

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"...seen from above, landscapes are made up of mountains and watercourses. Just as a transparent model of the human body consists of a framework of bone and a network of arteries, the earth's crust is structured in mountain ridges, river, creeks, and gullies."

"Mountaineering has become part of tourism. Today you can buy an ascent of Everest like you can buy a trip to Rome. You can buy the summit and be taken there as a tourist, but you cannot buy the experience I had or that [Edmund] Hillary or Chris Bonnington had [1953 first ascent of Mount Everest; 1975 ascent of Everest Southwest Face]. Real mountaineering means that you--or you and your partner--are solely responsible for what you do and the decisions you take. It is completely different.”

"Over time, our only chance at safety will depend on not turning the mountains into Disneyland."

"I didn’t go up there to die. I went up there to live."

More climbing quotes...

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Fri, 30 Sep 2016 14:23:20 +0000
Don't use dyneema lanyard... https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/114-dyneema-lanyard-not-good-idea https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/114-dyneema-lanyard-not-good-idea Don't use dyneema lanyard...

This tutorials presents different types of lanyards used in mountaineering and demonstrating their advantages and disadvantages. At first movie Italian laboratory Centro Studi Materiale e Tecniche check laynards from rope, poliamid and dyneema. Factor fall 1 and 2.

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Here also study from ENSA

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Fri, 17 Jun 2016 06:21:52 +0000
Wojtek Kurtyka - 2016 Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award https://winterclimb.com/news/item/112-wojtek-kurtyka-2016-piolet-dor-lifetime-achievement-award https://winterclimb.com/news/item/112-wojtek-kurtyka-2016-piolet-dor-lifetime-achievement-award Wojtek Kurtyka - 2016 Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award

This coming April, we will be celebrating the different dimensions of alpinism, and more generally the 'mountain spirit', in a region that is emblematic of the values that we seek to promote, including sharing experiences, commitment, and innovation. We will be present in the area around the Piolets d’Or base camps in La Grave and the Lautaret col, in one of the most beautiful parts of France. Here at the heart of Ecrins National Park, we’ll follow in the footsteps of La Meije’s legendary 'Père Gaspard'.

There will be opportunities to meet alpinists from all over the world, as well as local residents, who are strongly attached to the values of mountain life. The event also features shared outdoor activities, a book fair, films, and the presentation of various ascents during friendly evening gatherings. A veritable festival of 'mountain spirit' awaits you in the region of La Meije in mid-April. 

2016 Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award 

The 2016 Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award will be presented to a great Polish alpinist, Voytek Kurtyka, a mysterious and fascinating character legendary for his impressive ascents. His first ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV (or the 'Shining Wall') in 1985 is considered by purists to
be the most remarkable alpine-style ascent of the 20th century.

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Born in 1947 in Skrzynka, Poland, Voytek Kurtyka was a veritable phenomenon of a generation of Polish alpinists who marked the history of alpine style climbing in the Himalayas. Along with figures like Wanda Rutkiewicz and Jerzy Kukuczka, Kurtyka embodies the 'pioneering spirit' that was fundamental to this group of Polish alpinists who learned their craft in the Tatras. 

Photo: M. Skwarczek

One can even go so far as to identify a 'vision'when it comes to the alpinism practiced by this generation: total commitment and immersion, pure alpine style, long winter expeditions, an attraction to beauty, and an alchemy between the climber and the summit. Several of Kurtyka’s climbing partners, themselves living legends of great alpinism, will be present at the 2016 Piolets d’Or in La Grave. 

wojtek kurtyka traverse of broad peak photo jerzy kukuczka

Wojciech Kurtyka on traverse of Broad Peak. Photo: Jerzy Kukuczka

More about Wojtek: Wojciech Kurtyka

The most notable ascents of 2015 and the make-up of the international technical committee

The second highlight of the Piolets d’Or event relates to modern alpinism. We are proud to be able to count on the support of an elite level international  echnical committee to promote ethical alpinism. Choosing amongst the most notable ascents of 2015, the committee will recognise several ascents that they judge to be the best and most emblematic of the style that the Piolets d’Or seeks to promote. 

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This process, undertaken in a collaborative manner by the Groupe de Haute Montagne, the American Alpine Journal, and the Alpine Club, is currently underway. The results will be published in the next press release, in early March. Here are the members of the 2016 international technical committee:
- Michael Kennedy (USA)
- Valeri Babanov (RU)
- Silvo Karo (SLO)
- Vic Saunders (UK)
- Seb Bohin (F)
- Raphael Slawinsky (CAN)
- Yasuhiro Hanatani (J)
- Simon Elias (ESP)
- Hervé Barmasse (I)

You can find a list of the most notable ascents of 2015 at : 
www.pioletsdor.net
More information about the members at : http://pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/home/technical-committee

Spirit of international openness:

The Piolets d’Or is an event of international scope. Alpinists from all horizons, who have explored mountain ranges all over the world, meet to share and exchange experiences, pass along knowledge, and find inspiration. Alpine style climbing breaks down barriers and fosters mutual respect through its spirit of
discovery and understanding, and encourages respect for nature by renouncing siege-style tactics.

In a tense international geopolitical climate in which extremism is gaining ground - even within the European Union - the organisers of the Piolets d’Or, as well as the public and private partners who support the event, hope to convey a spirit and culture of international openness, thoughtfulness, and tolerance with this year’s event. We will provide more details on this aspect of the event in the next press release.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) News Fri, 19 Feb 2016 12:01:24 +0000
The first winter ascent of Mount Everest https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/111-mount-everest-first-winter-ascent-1980 https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/111-mount-everest-first-winter-ascent-1980 The first winter ascent of Mount Everest

17th February 1980, 2:25 p.m., BC Mount Everest. Krzysztof’s voice in radio:

- Hello, Base Camp! Do you hear us?

- Yes, where are you? Hello, hello!

- Guess what?!

- Hello! Hello!

- On the summit. We are on the Summit!!!

- If it wasn't for Everest, we would never have dreamt of climbing here!

 

mount everest route 1980 winter ascent

The route of the first winter ascent. This is the normal route from Nepal via the South Col. Photo: Summitpost.org

Two years before, on the 16th October 1978, Wanda Rutkiewicz became the first Pole and the first European (third woman in the world) to reach the summit of Mount Everest. However great success it was, it just inspired to set up more ambitious goals. At the time, the majority thought that climbing Mount Everest in winter was impossible. Everyone except Poles :-).

Andrzej Zawada’s vison came first. This and - probably - insistence of Józef Nyka who reminded that every 8000-meter peak was conquered during summer but none in winter conditions. Nyka suggested that Himalayan winter should be a target for Polish expeditions.

Andrzej Zawada had proved to be a great head of expeditions to the high mountains. He was in charge when Poles conquered Noshaq (7492 m) in the winter of 1973.

Then 1974 year came and expedition to Lhotse. Andrzej Zawada and Andrzej Heinrich reached altitude 8250 m.a.s.l. during this expedition, setting the new winter world record. Polish mountaineers thought that human body can handle the winter conditions at such altitudes.

andrzej zawada

Andrzej Zawada. Photo: Bogdan Jankowski

Next goal: Everest!

The preparations for the first Polish winter ascent of Mount Everest (8848 m) started in 1977 when Zawada started the efforts to get the permit from Nepali authorities.

In November 1979 the most-awaited permit arrived. There was not much time left. The expedition should have started immediately...

Following weeks were real madness. Climbers needed almost everything - from gear to food and last but not least money...

At this time only vinegar (and vodka!) could be found on shop shelves in People’s Republic of Poland... However, the organizers miraculously managed to arrange almost everything.

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Only mountaineers came in abundance. Team consisted of 20 climbers (Andrzej Zawada ( expedition’s leader), Józef Bakalarski (cameraman), Leszek Cichy, Krzysztof Cielecki, Ryszard Dmoch, Walenty Fiut, Ryszard Gajewski, Zygmunt A. Heinrich, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Robert Janik (doctor), Bogdan Jankowski, Stanisław Jaworski (cameraman), Janusz Mączka, Aleksander Lwow, Kazimierz W. Olech, Maciej Pawlikowski, Marian Piekutowski, Ryszard Szafirski, Krzysztof Wielicki, Krzysztof Żurek) and 5 Sherpas (led by Pemba Norbu).

On the 5th January 1980 the team set up Base Camp on the south face of Mount Everest. Expedition members chose a normal route from Nepal.

members of polish expedition on mount everest 1980

Expedition members: Andrzej Zawada (head of expedition), Józef Bakalarski (cameraman), Leszek Cichy, Krzysztof Cielecki, Ryszard Dmoch, Walenty Fiut, Ryszard Gajewski, Zygmunt A. Heinrich, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Robert Janik (lekarz), Bogdan Jankowski, Stanisław Jaworski (cameraman), Janusz Mączka, Aleksander Lwow, Kazimierz W. Olech, Maciej Pawlikowski, Marian Piekutowski, Ryszard Szafirski, Krzysztof Wielicki, Krzysztof Żurek. Also five Sherpas. Photo: Bogdan Jankowski

Initially it was a piece of cake. In 10 days climbers have estabilished Camp III on 7150 m. They couldn’t understand why nobody had climbed Mount Everest in winter so far. And then the wind began to blow.

Poles didn't have such precise weather forecast as we have today. They tried to go up and retreated if was too cold or too windy for summit attack (usually it was).

tent polish winter expedition 1980 mount everest

Main tent in Base Camp. From left: Ryszard Gajewski, Andrzej Zawada, Leszek Cichy and Jan Holnicki-Szulc. Photo: Bogdan Jankowski

After one month of the expedition there were just a few climbers left in shape to attempt the summit attack.

On the 11th February Krzysztof Wielicki, Leszek Cichy and Walenty Fiut put up a small tent on the South Col. After a hard night - when the wind almost destroyed their shelter - they retreated (Wielicki to Camp II, Fiut to Base Camp).

Time was wasn’t on their side – the 15th February was last day of climbing permit. They send a liaison officer to extended permit. Nepal gave them just two days more...

"Prace inżynieryjne" przy lodospadzie Khumbu - Icefall Fot. Stanisław Jaworski

Working on Khumbu - Icefall. Photo Stanisław Jaworski

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On the 13th February Andrzej Zawada and Ryszard Szafirski in heroic attempt climbed up to to South Col, where they spent the night. Zawada was exhausted, but his bravery encouraged young climbers.

south col mount everest 1980

Zygmunt A. Heinrich and Pasang Norbu in Camp IV (South Col). Photo: Andrzej Zawada

Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki decided to try to get to the summit. But there were still Andrzej Heinrich and Passang Sherpa in the camp above them. Heinrich was an old hand of Polish climbing. Always very careful. Maybe that was the reason of his retreat along with Passang from 8350 m.

oxygen tanks everest expedition

Checking oxygen tanks. Photo Andrzej Zawada

The last chance

On the 16th February, Cichy and Wielicki reached the South Col. The night was very hard with -42C and strong wind. They ate fruit jelly, lyophilized veal chop and some... old bread (which they found on South Col).

On 06:50 a.m. they started the summit push with light packs (only one oxygen tank per person).

The right side of the south ridge was easier to climb due to lighter wind. However, higher they had to cross to the left, where the gale was horrible. 

At 2:25 p.m. they reached the summit and left there a small cross and a rosary blessed by the pope John Paul II.

Krzysztof Wielicki na szczycie Everestu

Krzysztof Wielicki on top of the Everest. Photo: Leszek Cichy

Cichy took some small rocks from the summit along with a piece of paper with and advertisement: "For a good time call Pat Rucker 274-2602 Anchorage, Alaska, USA". Probably ”good time” had a lot in common with prostitution :-). This card was left by Ray Genet (mountaineer who ascended Everest in 1979 but never returned to Base Camp).

Wielicki and Cichy also left a thermometer on the summit to measure the minimum temperature. They took some snow samples for scientists.

The descent usually is more strenuous and dangerous than ascent. Climbers are exhausted and mistake can lead to fatal consequences.

Wielicki’s toes were frostbitten and he was moving very slow. Climbers didn’t have flashlights. Leszek Cichy reached tent on South Col first and waited for Krzysztof. One hour later he arrived there. Team spent a night rescuing Krzysztof toes.

Next day the two descended to Camp III, where they met the other members of the expedition. The champions were back in the Base Camp on 19th February.

Krzysztof Wielicki i Leszek Cichy fetują zdobycie Mount Everestu w Zimie

Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy in Base Camp. Photo Bogdan Jankowski

The atmosphere in BC couldn’t have been better. Everybody knew that each of them played an important part in this success. News about success soon reached Poland (through the radio station in Base Camp).

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krzysztof wielicki 1980 mount everest expedition

Krzysztof Wielicki. Photo Bogdan Jankowski

1980 leszek cichy presents note which in 1979 ray genet left on top of mount everest

Leszek Cichy. Photo Bogdan Jankowski

First winter ascent of Mount Everest by Andrzej Zawada's team was also the first successful winter expedition to any of the peaks above 8 000 m. After 1980 Poles did nine first winter ascents on 8000 metre peaks. Only two mountains remain unconquered in winter conditions: Nanga Parbat and K2.

Krzysztof Wielicki ascended all fourteen 8000 metre peaks (as the fifth personever).

Great thanks to Ola Leszczyńska and Tomek Mucha for proofreading!

Bibliography:

„Góry, ludzie, kontynenty w obiektywie ekstremalnej kamery”, Jerzy Surdel

„Freedom Climbers” Bernadette McDonald

American Alpine Journal

„35 lat temu zdobyto Mount Everest” source: drytooling.com.pl

"Okrągła rocznica pierwszego zimowego wejścia na Mount Everest", Janusz Kurczab. Source: wspinanie.pl

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Wed, 17 Feb 2016 07:18:00 +0000
Mountain quotes (funny, inspirational, sayings) https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/109-mountain-quotes-and-sayings https://winterclimb.com/articles/item/109-mountain-quotes-and-sayings Mountain quotes (funny, inspirational, sayings)

Here you have lot inspirational quotes about mountains. You will find there typical quotes about mountains (for mountaineers). lot of funny quotes about mountains, but also lot of smart sentences with mountains.

There you have my "top 10" - One of the most inpirational mountain quotes:

"Because it is there." — George Mallory, answer to the question 'Why do you want to climb Mt. Everest?

Mountains are not fair or unfair, they are just dangerous. Reinhold Messner

Human life is far more important than just getting to the top of a mountain. Edmund Hillary

Pissing through 6 inches of clothes with a 3 inch penis! - Anonymous Everest summiteer when asked what was the hardest thing about climbing Mt. Everest

Never measure the height of a mountain until you reach the top. Then you will see how low it was. Dag Hammerskjold

You never climb the same mountain twice, not even in memory. Memory rebuilds the mountain, changes the weather, retells the jokes, remakes all the moves. Lito Tejada-Flores

Its not the Mountain we conquer, but ourselves. Edmund Hillary

I've realised that at the top of the mountain, there's another mountain. Andrew Garfield

If you don't have a mountain, build one and then climb it. And after you climb it, build another one; otherwise you start to flatline in your life. Sylvester Stallone

At a time when you stay at the top, there is no explosion of happiness - happiness is experienced when everything remains in front of you, when you know that you have to a goal a few hundred, a few dozen meters when you are right in front. This is the time of happiness. Jerzy Kukuczka

Other mountain quotes

When preparing to climb a mountain - pack a light heart. Dan May

I live not in myself, but I becom Portion of that around me: and to me High mountains are a feelin, but the hum of human cities torture. George Byron

Earth and sky, woods and fields, lakes and rivers, the mountain and the sea, are excellent schoolmasters, and teach some of us more than we can ever learn from books. John Lubbock

I soon learned that Everest wasn't a private affair. It belonged to many men. Thomas Hornbein

The deepest sea has a bottom, the highest mountain has a summit. Chinese saying

For an old man, any hill is a mountain. Jewish saying

When a father climbs a dangerous mountain and dies, we mourn. When a mother does, we question her judgment. How could she? Susan Estrich

When the sun is shining I can do anything; no mountain is too high, no trouble too difficult to overcome. Wilma Rudolph

I can't understand why men make all this fuss about Everest — it's only a mountain. Junko Tabei, first woman to climb Everest

There's intense personal gratification in finding a mountain and becoming inspired by the aesthetics of an unclimbed line on that mountain, especially if that line has been tried by a lot of people who couldn't do it, and you get to set yourself up against the history of it. Jimmy Chin

I believe that the ascent of mountains forms an essential chapter in the complete duty of man, and that it is wrong to leave any district without setting foot on its highest peak. Sir Leslie Stephen

Within a month of intense life in the mountains is going through so much, what used to be a period of several years; This is a occupancy for people greedy for life - human life is not enough. Jerzy Kukuczka

It isn't the mountain ahead that wears you out; it's the grain of sand in your shoe. Robert W. Service

You don't climb mountains without a team, you don't climb mountains without being fit, you don't climb mountains without being prepared and you don't climb mountains without balancing the risks and rewards. And you never climb a mountain on accident - it has to be intentional. Mark Udall

One thing to remember on the Eiger, never look up, or you may need a plastic surgeon. Don Whillans

Often the best guys are just those that can suffer longer, who don't give up. And it's so easy to give up, when you're on a mountain and it's really hurting. We go through a lot physically. David Millar

Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence. Hermann Buhl

If adventure has a final and all-embracing motive, it is surely this: we go out because it is our nature to go out, to climb mountains, and to paddle rivers, to fly to the planets and plunge into the depths of the oceans... When man ceases to do these things, he is no longer man. Wilfrid Noyce

I just want to do God's will. And he's allowed me to go to the mountain. And I've looked over, and I've seen the promised land! I may not get there with you, but I want you to know tonight that we as a people will get to the promised land. Martin Luther King, Jr.

When you find your passion, it's great. You go up a mountain with partners, and you have a wonderful opportunity to connect and achieve a goal together. You are not trying to be better than other humans. You are supporting each other. Conrad Anker

Success comes to those who have an entire mountain of gold that they continually mine, not those who find one nugget and try to live on it for fifty years. John C. Maxwell

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Let's not mince words: Everest doesn't attract a whole lot of well-balanced folks. The self-selection process tends to weed out the cautious and the sensible in favor of those who are single-minded and incredibly driven. Which is a big reason the mountain is so dangerous. Jon Krakauer

Climbing is one of the few sports in which the arena (the cliffs, the mountains and their specific routes) acquire a notoriety that outpopulates, outshines and outlives the actual athletes. Jonathan Waterman

The mountains have rules. they are harsh rules, but they are there, and if you keep to them you are safe. A mountain is not like men. A mountain is sincere. The weapons to conquer it exist inside you, inside your soul. Walter Bonatti

The higher the mountain, the deeper the valley. Alsacian saying

I've walked a lot in the mountains in Iceland. And as you come to a new valley, as you come to a new landscape, you have a certain view. If you stand still, the landscape doesn't necessarily tell you how big it is. It doesn't really tell you what you're looking at. The moment you start to move the mountain starts to move. Olafur Eliasson

I know the guru route, I know you go sit on a mountain. But screw India. I ain't going there. Susan Powter

Been there, done that. Greg Child about Everest

Ever since a small boy, I have loved just to look at the mountains, to see them in different lights and from different angles, to feel their rough rock under my fingers and the breath of the winds against my feet... I am in love with the mountains. Wilfrid Noyce

Only mountains can never meet. French saying

There's a world out there, and you've got to look at both sides of the mountain in your lifetime. Bill Janklow

The mountain remains unmoved at seeming defeat by the mist. Rabindranath Tagore

When we tire of well-worn ways, we seek for new. This restless craving in the souls of men spurs them to climb, and to seek the mountain view. Ella Wheeler Wilcox

The great thing about rock-n-roll is you realize the top of the mountain is big enough for more than one band. Paul Stanley

Despite all I have seen and experienced, I still get the same simple thrill out of glimpsing a tiny patch of snow in a high mountain gully and feel the same urge to climb towards it. Edmund Hillary

The mainstream audience has a certain picture of what climbing is all about: man conquering mountain. But you can't conquer a mountain, though it may conquer you. Jimmy Chin

You climb to reach the summit, but once there, discover that all roads lead down. Stanislaw Lem, The Cyberiad

It is a crest of granite... perfectly inaccessible, being probably the only one of the prominent points about the Yosemite which never has been, and never will be, trodden my human foot. California Geological Survey report about Half Dome, 1865

Over every mountain there is a path, although it may not be seen from the valley. Theodore Roethke

Only if you have been in the deepest valley, can you ever know how magnificent it is to be on the highest mountain. Richard M. Nixon

I asked him with my eyes to ask again yes and then he asked me would I yes to say yes my mountain flower and first I put my arms around him yes and drew him down to me so he could feel my breasts all perfume yes and his heart was going like mad and yes I said yes I will Yes. James Joyce

He who climbs upon the highest mountains laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary. Friedrich Nietzsche

Great men are rarely isolated mountain peaks; they are the summits of ranges. Thomas W. Higginson

I was never comfortable with the risk of climbing in the Himalayas, or the amount of time in idleness that is involved in the Everest expedition. Steve Fossett

I like to think of Everest as a great mountaineering challenge, and when you've got people just streaming up the mountain - well, many of them are just climbing it to get their name in the paper, really. Edmund Hillary

I was making a film called The White Tower at the foot of Mont Blanc - the one thing I learned from that experience was that it's more difficult to go down a mountain than to go up. A lot of people don't realize that. Glenn Ford

For me, a holiday is about taking a book and going to a mountain and reading. Sonam Kapoor

A friend who is far away is sometimes much nearer than one who is at hand. Is not the mountain far more awe-inspiring and more clearly visible to one passing through the valley than to those who inhabit the mountain? Khalil Gibran

Great men are rarely isolated mountain peaks; they are the summits of ranges. Thomas W. Higginson

I thought climbing the Devil's Thumb would fix all that was wrong with my life. In the end, of course, it changed almost nothing. But I came to appreciate that mountains make poor receptacles for dreams. Jon Krakauer, Into the Wild

Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, and robes the mountain in its azure hue. Thomas Campbell

Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean. John Muir

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Mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery. John Ruskin, British art critic and writer

The first question which you will ask and which I must try to answer is this; What is the use of climbing Mount Everest? and my answer must at once be, it is no use. There is not the slightest prospect of any gain whatsoever. George Leigh Mallory

Mountains teach that not everything in this world can be rationally explained. Aleksander Lwow

My first book was called, 'Mountain, Get Out of My Way,' where I did an autobiographical sketch, if you will, looking back at myself and looking back at things in my life, and juxtaposing them against things that are happening in other people's lives and trying to be motivational. Montel Williams

When I was 23, I climbed this mountain in Alaska called Devil's Thumb alone. It was incredibly dangerous, and I did it because I thought that if I did something that hard and pulled it off, my life was gonna be transformed. And of course, nothing happened. But I get the search for purpose. Jon Krakauer

One may walk over the highest mountain one step at a time. Barbara Walters

To those who have struggled with them, the mountains reveal beauties that they will not disclose to those who make no effort. That is the reward the mountains give to effort. And it is because they have so much to give and give it so lavishly to those who will wrestle with them that men love the mountains and go back to them again and again. The mountains reserve their choice gifts for those who stand upon their summits. Sir Francis Younghusband

One way to get high blood pressure is to go mountain climbing over molehills. Earl Wilson

The destruction of the natural beauty, the ecosystems, and the majesty of mountains affect us in ways we're not even aware of. Every time a mountain is beheaded, we chop off a little part of our souls. Gloria Reuben

I have a dream that one day every valley shall be exalted, every hill and mountain shall be made low, the rough places will be made straight and the glory of the Lord shall be revealed and all flesh shall see it together. Martin Luther King, Jr.

In the mountains there are only two grades: You can either do it, or you can't. Rusty Baille

The mountains are exceptional places for, as the natural environment is concerned, they are the concentration of the wildest possible variety of all natural phenomena and forms. They are somehow a concentration of the truth of nature or even I'd say its essence. Voytek Kurtyka (Wojciech Kurtyka)

I send my warmest congratulations to you and to the other members of the Italian team, who have achieved such a splendid mountaineering feat on Mt McKinley. President Kennedy to Riccardo Cassin in 1961

I like being near the top of a mountain. One can't get lost here. Wisława Szymborska

For us the mountains had been a natural field of activity where, playing on the frontiers of life and death, we had found the freedom for which we were blindly groping and which was as necessary to us as bread. Maurice Herzog

It's a heavy burden to look up at the mountain and want to start the climb. Abby Wambach

I like to think of Everest as a great mountaineering challenge, and when you've got people just streaming up the mountain - well, many of them are just climbing it to get their name in the paper, really. Edmund Hillary

Building a company isn't that different from climbing a big mountain. You need people helping you traverse treacherous paths and to lift you up when you fall. Vivek Wadhwa

Take it from a guy: If you're in love with somebody, you will swim the stream, you will climb the mountain, you will slay the dragon. You're going to get to her somehow, some way. Phil McGraw

Any road followed precisely to its end leads precisely nowhere. Climb the mountain just a little bit to test it's a mountain. From the top of the mountain, you cannot see the mountain. Frank Herbert

If you want to train for big mountain endeavors, spend time in big mountains. Jimmy Chin

On this proud and beautiful mountain we have lived hours of fraternal, warm and exalting nobility. Here for a few days we have ceased to be slaves and have really been men. It is hard to return to servitude. Lionel Terray

Etiquette is all human social behavior. If you're a hermit on a mountain, you don't have to worry about etiquette; if somebody comes up the mountain, then you've got a problem. It matters because we want to live in reasonably harmonious communities. Judith Martin

Nobody trips over mountains. It is the small pebble that causes you to stumble. Pass all the pebbles in your path and you will find you have crossed the mountain. Anonymous

Mountains were once my big adventure but is is over since a long time; I still dream from the wonderful days sometimes, read also a few pages from a mountain book. But the thought of doing again active mountain climbing has faded. Fritz Zwicky

A man does not climb a mountain without bringing some of it away with him and leaving something of himself upon it. Martin Conway

If Everest is the cake, Trango is the topping. Anonymous

Doubly happy, however, is the man to whom lofty mountain tops are within reach. John Muir

I learned that you should feel when writing, not like Lord Byron on a mountain top, but like child stringing beads in kindergarten, - happy, absorbed and quietly putting one bead on after another. Brenda Ueland

We've climbed the mighty mountain. I see the valley below, and it's a valley of peace. George W. Bush

When you do a play, you have the kind of nightly feeling of accomplishment. But you also have the daily dread of the doing it every night. And because you're doing the whole thing every day, it's like climbing up the mountain every single night. With a movie it's like climbing the mountain very slowly, over months of filming. Jesse Eisenberg

The only mountain that I would still like to climb: I'd like to break 85. Peter Falk

Creative people who can't help but explore other mental territories are at greater risk, just as someone who climbs a mountain is more at risk than someone who just walks along a village lane. R. D. Laing

Yeah, I mean, climbing's always been a massive hobby of mine up until, kind of, recent times when I've had family, but no, it's been a driving passion in my life and, uh, I've always wanted to climb the Matterhorn. It was the mountain that, sort of, inspired me to climb, as a youngster. So, it was great to be able to get to do it. Andy Serkis

Space Mountain may be the oldest ride in the park, but it has the longest line. Ric Flair

Only when you drink from the river of silence shall you indeed sing. And when you have reached the mountain top, then you shall begin to climb. And when the earth shall claim your limbs, then shall you truly dance. Khalil Gibran

My idea of a real treat is Magic Mountain without standing in line. Alan Rickman

The mountain is nothing without people on it. Often you part expedition exasperated, but a year or two later you go back with the same partners knowing there's potential in this human relationship. Greg Child

When you do a play, you have the kind of nightly feeling of accomplishment. But you also have the daily dread of the doing it every night. And because you're doing the whole thing every day, it's like climbing up the mountain every single night. With a movie it's like climbing the mountain very slowly, over months of filming. Jesse Eisenberg

I think when you begin to think of yourself as having achieved something, then there's nothing left for you to work towards. I want to believe that there is a mountain so high that I will spend my entire life striving to reach the top of it. Cicely Tyson

Every man should pull a boat over a mountain once in his life. Werner Herzog

The mountains have done the spiritual side of me more good religiously, as well as in my body physically, than anything else in the world. No one knows who and what God is until he has seen some real mountaineering and climbing in the Alps. Rev F. T. Wethered, 1919

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as the sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms teir energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. John Muir about Yosemite

The top of one mountain is always the bottom of another. Marianne Williamson

More mountaineering quotes (and quotes about climbing) you will finde there:
Famous inspirational climbing quotes about mountaineering, rock climbing, mountains and also funny quotes :)

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Articles Thu, 21 Jan 2016 09:05:23 +0000
Iron Knight D14+/15- ? https://winterclimb.com/news/item/108-iron-knight-eptingen https://winterclimb.com/news/item/108-iron-knight-eptingen Iron Knight D14+/15- ?

Eptingen in Switzerland has new dry-tooling extreme route. Jonas Allemann send Iron Knight D14+/15- (proposition grade), which is combination of 3 previous routes: Dark Knight (D11+/12-), Spiderman and Iron Man D14/14+.

 

iron knight eptingen topo

Topo of Iron Knight D14+/15-. Photo. fb Jason Allemann

In Eptingen was first M8+ route on the Europe (Robert Jasper, 1997).

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) News Thu, 17 Dec 2015 14:35:46 +0000