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Gear - WinterClimb.com https://winterclimb.com Wed, 27 Oct 2021 18:33:15 +0000 Joomla! - Open Source Content Management en-gb Eliteclimb Raptor - ice axes made in Poland https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/123-eliteclimb-raptor-ice-axes-made-in-poland https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/123-eliteclimb-raptor-ice-axes-made-in-poland Alicja w Krainie Czarów WI5 M8. Photo Kuba Poburka

Today I write about something special. Eliteclimb Raptor - lightweight ice axes from carbon fibers. I had the honor to test one of the first prototypes of this tools and some of my ideas are in new Raptors. In this text, I will write something about this ice tools and answer the question: Is this Raptor for You?

Oryginal test (in polish) you will find on drytooling.com.pl.

Below small interview with Jarek Walewski (Founder of Eliteclimb)

DG: When Eliteclimb start and what were your inspirations

JW: Company has roots in mountains. The idea was born in the middle of Kazalnica (famous polish winter wall in Tatras) at 2013. Near of our team was climbing team Wojtek Ryczer and Piotr Xięski. Wojtek saw hammer from Kevlar and give the idea of ice tools from that same material. With his help after half of the year, Salamandras axes go with Artur Małek on the expedition to K2.

What was first product?

Of course first was hammer ;). After that were 3 Salamandra tools. Their lucky owners are Artur, Wojtek and me.

In the meantime, I work on a snow shovel. Some prototype goes to polish expedition K2 & Broad Peak Middle in 2014. Another project was ice tool Czarny Łabędź (Black Swan) for Ice World Cup. Tester was Olga Kosek, but the project now is closed, because UIAA changes limit box for Ice tools.

After K2 we create Kruk (Raven) and in this year we have the last version of Raptors.

Great thanks for Artur Małek. His experience in high mountains and lot of winter climbing allows creating great products for mountain terrain.

Say something about technology

In production, we use hybrid carbon and Kevlar composite. Combination of this two materials results in high strength and low weight. Everything is prepared manually.

New Raptor?

Raptor is next step. Before it was Salamandra. Raptor is designed to technical mixt climbing (ice & rock) and dry tooling. It takes 2 years from idea to product. In the first version, geometry was not so good. Ice tool was also too flexible. We change the shape of shaft and picks. 

The purpose was: light weight, great swing, stiff shaft and good to place in ice. I think that now Raptor is good.

What are next products?

We have some ideas. People ask for a combination of ice tool and shovel. Others ask for a typical ice axe.
Interesting can be trekking pools. I have some project in my mind.

How is going on the international market?

Eliteclimbs are recognized in many countries. Salamandras and shovels were used in Romania, Pakistan, USA, UK, Norway, and Switzerland.

A big success was Ouray Ice Festival, where we have been the first polish company. We have some new contacts in America.

Below short movie about production Eliteclimb

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Abour Raptors

To 2017 you can buy Kruk and Salamandra. This last one was technical ice tool with a shape like in Petzl Quark and was dedicated to alpine climbing. There wasn’t ice tool like Petzl Nomic or BD Fusion. This empty space fills Raptor.
Raptor is technical ice tool (dedicated to ice and mixt technical climbing) with rounded shape and grip for your hand. It weighs 430 gram.

Construction

Construction is “easy”. We have kevlar and tendon coal, also steel pick.
The pick is universal. For rock and ice - in this second terrain we can place steel plates from Nomic to give more weight to our ice tool (better swing). Pick also has a minimal hammer.
At the top of ice tool, we have the hole for carabiners (we can place our tools to harness).
Shaft and grip are from hybrid carbon and Kevlar composite. Everything is profiled for best rigid. At the bottom is an aluminum blade (adze).

One Raptor cost 1300 zł (~270 euro)

raptor-eliteclimb.jpg

How did they perform?

My favorite tools for winter climbing are Petzl Nomics (version 2), which are great construction. So in many cases in this article, I will compare Nomics with Raptors.

Raptors

First about what you think is weight. First time in my hands I had a feeling that this is plastic :). After some time you get used to but tools are very light.
In total, you have two ice tools with weight 900 grams. In comparison Nomics weight 1270 gram. It is almost 400 grams of difference!

Attack angle

Raptor is designed for mixt and ice climbing in vertical or overhanging terrain. Of course, it will be good also in slab terrain and at roofs.
The shape is similar like in Petzl Nomic or Black Diamond Fusion. But Raptors are a little bit bigger

"Feeling"

In hard mixt climbing (especially dry tooling) is important to have “feeeling” of your tools. When you put your weight on small crimps you “feel” if your tool catch hold. Another detail is jamming of your tools. For example, Nomic has a little bit flexible shafts. When you hang on the roof (especially on figure 4 or 9) Nomic can increase his length and return when you lighten. Sometimes in this situation grip of Nomic can jam.

From opposite is Fusion Black Diamond, where a shaft is very rigid. How is with Raptors?

The shaft is also flexible. Maybe smaller than in Nomics, but there is something. But you know - They are built not from an alloy of metal but from hybrid carbon and Kevlar composite. Something
Raptor is leashless, but it has a small hole for something - BD Fusion weight 672 gram and Raptor 430 gram.

eliteclimb-raptor-czekan2.jpg

Another important point is a grip on your tools. Good ergonomic handle is treasure, which gives us huge benefit on overhanging routes
Grip in Raptors is ok, but not so good like in Petzl Nomics or Cassin X-dream. The shaft in Raptor is covered with special abrasive paint for better grip. But soon (if you climb in overhang routes) or later (if you climb in alpine terrain) this paint go away and friction will be not so good.
At this point, I feel a difference in dry tooling (big overhangs and roofs). Not so bad but Fusion, Nomic and Cassin X-dream have better grip. The solution can be grip tape on the shaft and… training ;).
The shape of the grip for me is too thick (better is in Nomic and X-dream).
Carbon and kevlar grip is better in alpine terrain. This material is warm for your hands and snow did not glue to your shaft.

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Griprests

Raptor has 3 grip rest. First at the bottom of the handle is quite big and protect our hand from hitting ice&rock. He has a serrated blade which gives us the opportunity to put ice tool in snow (easy terrain).
The second grip rest is at the top of the handle. Third in the middle of the shaft (which is good in easy alpine terrain or in overhang dry tooling routes).

eliteclimb-raptor-czekan-skrot.jpg

Leash

Raptor is leashless, but it has a small hole to put cord there.

eliteclimb-raptor-czekan-rekojesc.jpg

Durability

I use Raptor 2 winter seasons. Two pairs (prototype and new - actual - version). Last part quite often. I’m curious how strong will be a tool from carbon fibers. Carbon and Kevlar don’t brake suddenly (like a shaft in Nomics a ). First, we hear cracking sound. Maybe in hard dry tooling after years of using you have the chance for that. But in alpine/mixt/ice climbing I doubt. There is not so many force to break your shaft.

Another point is picks

They weigh ~140 gram (almost like in Petzl Nomics). The profile is for ice and mixt climbing in vertical and overhanging terrain. There is only one picks profile (some producents have picks for ice and mixt).
Picks have wide 4mm on the tip. An alloy of picks for me is a little bit softer than in picks from original Nomics. Maybe in this season picks will be harder. One pair of picks cost 25 euro (in Poland).

eliteclimb-raptor-czekan-ostrze.jpg

eliteclimb-raptor-czekan3.jpg

eliteclimb-raptor-czekan4.jpg

eliteclimb-raptor-czekan-glowica.jpg

Dry tooling

I climb with Raptors a lot. Usually in terrain harder than M6. To grade M7+ they are excellent. Good “feeling” of tools and light weight is quite good for this type of dry tooling.
I climb with them in harder terrain - big overhanging routes (also roofs). “Feeling” of your tools is also good.
Problem is with grip. It is not so good like in Nomics or X-dreams. We must use more force of our arms. Maybe a solution is to stretch grip tape on shaft and grip.

robert-pajak-drytooling-zakrzowek.jpg

Dry tooling on Zakrzówek (Kraków, Poland)

Mixt climbing

I use them usually in Tatras. In rock, they are similar like in dry tooling. Placing your tools in ice, consolidated snow and frozen grass without problems.
Their great advantage is weight :-). On approach and descent, we have almost ~400 grams less in our backpack.

alpiniada.jpg

Photo Bartek Szeliga

Climbing in ice

Artur Małek says that Raptors are born for ice :). I didn't climb with them in hard ice (WI5+ and harder) then I don’t have the comparison with Nomic.
I use Raptors more in rock than ice. But I do several hundred meters on icefalls (about 150 of grade WI5+) and they were ok. I climb without pick weights and I think that Nomic is a little bit better on ice.
Unfortunately, I didn’t test with one Raptor and Nomic at one icefall.

Who should use?

Good question. Buying a new pair of ice tools is a big investment in climbing gear. Raptors are specialized tools for:
winter mountaineering, steep technical alpine climbing. Everywhere where we don’t have long routes in overhanging and roofs. Every cent will return on approach and descents.
Big mountain expeditions where weight is crucial.
The light person, where a weight of ice tools is important. For example, girls which weight is under 55 kg.
Climbing on long icefall in water ice.
Climbing in snow/ice couloirs.
For climbers, who prefers climbing in big overhangs and roofs, Raptors will be not so good. The good climber will climb with them, but you will need more grip strength.

Conclusion

Raptors from Eliteclimb are interesting ice tools. If you are rather Mountaineer (to M8) than dry tooling monkey then you should consider this purchase. But if you go too long mountain expedition then buy them ;).

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Tue, 08 Aug 2017 06:00:00 +0000
BD Cyborg crampons, after 4 years– Long Term Review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/119-black-diamond-cyborg-review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/119-black-diamond-cyborg-review BD Cyborg crampons, after 4 years– Long Term Review

This year my Black Diamond Cyborg crampons will be retired – after four years and kilometres of climbing in ice and rock:-). I think is good time to do some review this all-round crampons.

Here you have description from Black Diamond Company

black-diamond-cyborg-crampons-view.jpg

Designed for technical ice routes and steep mixed climbing, the Black Diamond Cyborg Pro Crampons feature a lightweight stainless steel design that enhances durability and protects against rusting and snowballing.

The adjustable, hooded front points bite hard in vertical water ice and provide precise edging while dry tooling

Can be set up with either dual or single points

The rear heel clip features a micro-adjustment system for a secure fit

Dual-density ABS plates keeps snow from sticking to the bottom of these crampons

Ideal for steep ice and mixed climbing

Item #BLD0483

Tech Specs

Material: steel

Boot Compatibility

step-in Front Points dual

Number of Points: 12

Anti-balling plates: yes

Claimed Weight[pair]: 1120 gram

Recommended Use: ice/mixed climbing, mountaineering

Manufacturer Warranty1 year


Mixed climbing (on ski tour boots) in Tatras.. Fot. Cezary Klus

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Climbing Review

Cyborgs are crampons dedicated to ice/mixed climbing and mountaineering. We have choice to use in them mono or dual point, which is great advantage for different type of climbing. In fact you have 3 different types of crampons! If you want a single crampon that can climb in three different modes and you don’t mind a little extra weight, the Cyborg should be your type.

Personally I prefer mono point (especially in Tatra mountains). Dual point usually I used on snow type climbing routes.

I climb with them in different types of mountaineering boots: TNF Verto S6K (here you have outdoor review), TNF Verto Extreme S6K (here you have outdoor review), Dynafit TLT 3 (skitour boots) and Bestard Fitz Roy. Cyborgs stay well on this boots (but on other types could be different).

Also my friend says that they perfect fit to: Boreal Stetind, La Sportiva Trango ALP Gtx, Batura 2.0 and Dynafit tlt5.

I prefer monopoint system, then I cut hole in antibot plates to better set single point. Unfortunately it was difficult to proper cut this hole. After 1-2 hours (and involves a hacksaw) of working I achieved success… But in crampons for 200 bucks producent should prepare something better.

You can place single point without cutting hole in your snow plate, but it will be more demanding for your calf to stay on small footholds and holes in ice.

 black-diamond-cyborg-crampons-froint-point.jpg

Front of my Cyborg before retiring ;-). Photo Damian Granowski

In general if You climb usually on mono point, then maybe better choice will be to buy Black Diamond Stinger Crampons (960 gram pair). 

Cyborg has heel clip features a micro-adjustment system for a secure fit, but after 3 years of using I have problem with them. Steel wire “jump” in plastic hole when I placed crampons on my boot. After that it was loose on my heel. I solved this problem with climbing tape, but… you know… crampons for 200 $...

black-diamond-cyborg-crampons-heel-strap.jpg 

Photo Damian Granowski

Strap are quite long, then you can cut them for your shoes. 

I climb in them routes to M10 and WI6. They stay well on foot and small crimps, penetrate ice and frozen grass. What else you need :-)?


Ice climbing in Tatras. Photo Bartłomiej Szeliga

Weight of Cyborg (pair)

Monopoint – no antibot – 940 gram

Dual Point – no antibot – 1000 gram

Dual Point – with antibot – 1120 gram

If you want a single crampon that can climb in three different modes and you don’t mind a little extra weight, the Cyborg might be the your choice. Especially on steep ice and winter mixed climbing.

BTW

Here you have another option for old crampons. Front designed by Rzeszowska Kuźnia Szpeju for ~200 złoty (50 euro).

black-diamond-cyborg-with-front-from-rks.jpg

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Sat, 14 Jan 2017 07:53:14 +0000
How to choose best hiking, mountaineering shoes? Spring, summer, autumn and winter https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/91-how-to-choose-best-hiking-mountaineering-shoes-spring-summer-autumn-and-winter https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/91-how-to-choose-best-hiking-mountaineering-shoes-spring-summer-autumn-and-winter How to choose best hiking, mountaineering shoes? Spring, summer, autumn and winter

Mountain boots are one of the most important - and often most expensive - pieces of equipment, so carefully think about them. If they are mismatched, too hot or too cold, your climbing will lose a lot for pleasure :-).

Oryginal article (in Polish) you will find here: Jakie buty wybrać w góry? Od trekkingu po alpinizm.

Before reading the text, ask yourself a few questions:

Do you need shoes for mountain hiking in the small Mountains, or maybe the alpine type of mountain? At stake only hiking in the summer, do you take into account the winter?

In the past climber/hikers usually have shoes for everything, but currently on the market will find dozens of types of shoes for special purpose. They will be climbing shoes for a day, approach shoes, boots for multi-climbing, etc. Fortunately, you can also find universal designs that make in many areas, summer, and winter. Here we go then.
I will begin by discussing the kinds of shoes intended for summer and winter. In the end, you will find a link to an article with tips for buyers typical mountain boots.


What kind of shoes to the mountains in the summer?

If you do not walk in difficult terrain (a lot of stones/boulders), but you adjust to the mild, day trips into (not) alpine mountains, but just hiking, then perhaps a better (and certainly cheaper) option will be for you shoes with softer soles, providing better grip than shoes with hard (vibram) soles. But if you think about something more then read on;).

Approach shoes

The times when mountain shoes were heavy are gone. Currently we recommend comfortable, lightweight, as rigid shoes with rubber tips. These shoes will be suitable for approach, landing and easy climbing (for example: ridges, easy climbing routes). Very good shoes in this area are: adidas Terrex Solo, or adidas Terrex Scope. This kind of shoes must be comfortable. Approach shoes tend to have a harder sole than typical city shoes and usually are better in difficult mountain terrain.

Approach shoes for mountaineers

Of course, when we walk through the wet grass, snow shoes so get wet. The point is not that they are not waterproof, but rather water gets into the top of the shoe.

buty salewa mountain trainer gtx

Approach shoe Salewa Mountain Trainer. A typical shoe for approach and via Ferrata

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When I use these mountaineering shoes?

During the one-several-day tours in spring, summer and autumn. I'm going as far as to lightly (10-12 kilograms). They usually approach the climbing routes, day trips, mountaineering, approach the rocks and, of course, on a daily basis in the city.. Perfect for a multi-day hiking trip. Also good factor is the temperature. Where would be boiling hot, and the area would not be suitable on the sandals that shoes.

polbuty aku rock lite 2 gtx

Boots Aku Rock Solid II gtx, good for summer hiking (not only in mountains)

For example - Aku shoes Rock Lite II GTX is a pretty good model. I use them for a few years and appreciate them. Each company has its own "best seller". Check them in the shop and see if you do not feel chafing heels.

Rather, ankle boots would decide on the long trekkings in difficult terrain and with a heavy backpack. This where we have to go outside routes, often in mud, gravel, on scree, moraines glaciers. In short, where 80% of the readers of this article will not go :-). However, if you're in the minority and you are natural born hiker then ankle boots are for you ;).

but do biegow gorskich salewa speed ascent

Model speed SALEWA mountain ascent, for speed hiking in mountains

But the "speed hiking" - Salewa Speed Ascent. Speed hiking in the assumption discipline, during which a given route overcome rapid march. For this, we have with each other trekking poles and actively use them. Generally they are light and flexible shoes that allow you to easily and conveniently travel a given route.

Running shoes in the mountains

At this point, I have no practical experience. Something I read on the internet / press, so I would like this issue only roughly closer. Think of it all as a theory, and look for more specific information on other sites or among friends.

Definitely lightweight shoes (max 350 grams) with a good tread on the sole. The shoes designed for mountain gear maneuverability is important. You will probably want them at the same time run / walk tens of kilometers. Add to that more often wet conditions, mud, sand, etc., and you get a lot of factors that will be happy to massacre your feet. Companies recommendable when mountain running is available: Solomon LaSportiva, The North Face.

 

the north face ultra mt trail

Trail shoe The North Face Ultra MT. Description Manufacturer: top boots and cross trail. They withstand the harshest conditions. They provide unmatched traction and control with the new Vibram sole Megagrip. A special system of strategically placed upper layers increases support for the arch, protects fingers through tightly woven reticulum and breathability thanks to the Ultra Airmesh material. ESS provides uniform distribution of energy during the forefoot strikes the ground. Megagrip Vibram outsole provides unsurpassed traction and control.

The tread on the sole keep well in the mud, wet stones, sand, etc .. On the market there are models with varying degrees of "hardness". You will find the shoes quite stiff, supportive muscles of our legs during a long run. On the other side, you will find the so-called models. Natural run. Quite soft and requiring the runner a habit.

Gore-Tex? Probably not needed. During the off-road gear, you ran across the grass, mud, jump jets (or pass). In most cases, water enters from the top and your concern will be how to pour the water out of boots.

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Best trekking shoes?

Immediately warn that in the summer do not go in these boots after the Beskidy Tatras. Currently, my set of footwear is approach shoes, two pairs of shoes high altitude (single and dual layer) and skitour shoes for ski touring (the Tatras, the Alps and Beskidy).

Boots do not protect against internal injuries hocks, but rather against mechanical damage.

Trekking shoes Ankle definitely recommend for trips, expeditions for people who are going eg. In Georgia and want to go on Kazbek, but they will also walk the surrounding mountains below the snow line. So we need to have sturdy shoes, on relatively stiff soles which will attach crampons basket in case. On the other hand shoe as light and allows wandering more easily (and warmer) area.

I must admit that these shoes are pretty universal. They are as light and strong. We go out in them for simple tops even in the winter (the possibility buckles carcinomas). If you are suitable for winter hiking in the Beskidy Mountains and the Tatra Mountains. In conclusion, it may be beneficial to purchase for people who need a versatile shoe as both the summer and - to the extent easy - winter. I am thinking of easy trekking peaks. Winter climbing is rather difficult.

Trekking shoes sometimes in one day encounter a series of conditions: rain, mud, snow, ice, gravel, wet grass, scree, etc. They have to be robust. At stake here shoe leather or leather-cloth duo.

The Classical leather shoe is characterized in that it is the relatively high and rigid uppers your ankles, solid lacing system, a high language.

 

aku tribute but trekkingowy jak wybrac

Aku Tribute GTX is a classic shoe leather ankle. Description manufacturer: trekking boots made entirely of leather, reinforced GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort - have a high resistance to mechanical damage. Equipped with a stable and well damped Vibram sole, through which shoes retain grip on variable surfaces. Perfectly suited to the mountainous terrain moderate, they cope even in winter conditions - with the exception of very low temperatures, which are not insulated additionally.

Technological advances have meant that appeared on the market shoe leather and fabric. Compared to the leather are lighter, more comfortable, dry quickly and are less expensive. Often, however, they will be less durable. Probably it will be less water resistance (unless you have an inner layer of Goretex).

tnf s3k gtx

The North Face shoes S3K GTX, which is another shoe for a piece of Summit Series family - a pair of size 42 weighs 1164 grams. Manufacturer Description: In his name, as was the case presented in recent years S4K, or S6K (see test) were coded indication as to the amount and thus the conditions for which it was designed. This time, we are dealing with a model for climbing the peaks height of about 3,000 meters (3K). It uses a waterproof and breathable Gore-Tex membrane, known from the above mentioned models insert Northotic Pro +, OrthoLite lining and TPU Cradle stabilization technology. Sole Vibram is harder in and around the toes. The so-called. "Climbing Zone" allows some stand on small steps. Suitable finish around the heel turn allows the installation of semi-automatic crampons.

Ok, desirable features such shoe mountain is:

Sole your ankles.
High sewn into + is ideal if the shoe is connected to prevent ingress of water.
Rubber rant, increases water resistance and durability.
Deep lacing and locking system shoelaces.

Best mountain climbing shoes?

Here everything depends on the climbing route. If you intend to go on 10 exhaust path that is a lot of easy terrain and we have a store, it's best to take comfortable shoes, slippers may be that we use on the panel. Especially when most of the time we went to another. If you are going to go the difficult way for us, the shoes should be tighter, but without exaggeration. Ideally suited in the mountains laced boots, which also good "sit" in features and other strange formations where we katowałyby shoes asymmetrical foot.

buty wspinaczkowe evolv astroman

Sample (Evolv Astroman designed by Peter Croft) shoes dedicated to all-day climbing in the mountains. Lace, leather, holes for better air circulation. But with a comfortable lining material. In addition, what it is now a rather rare in our European market, but has a high upper to protect the ankle. This is to protect the interest of features that in the United States dominate.

What kind of mountain boots for winter?

In fact, one of the most important pieces of equipment. Definitely better not save (too much) on shoes, which are typically a big expense. The obligation to remember the truism that shoes should be above all comfortable (no chafing heels, etc.) And warm (under the circumstances). Remember that the best person to try on the model and better cautiously buys on the Internet.

Of course, everything depends on what activities need shoes.

To hiking in the mountains where we walk in the mountains glacial type will suffice duo leather shoes or leather-synthetic fabric + Goretex. Ideally, if they have to fasten the automatic crampons and weigh so to 1.2-1.4 kilograms (pair). In the end, however, can be ankle boots, which will attach crampons strip - for easier trips, eg. Winter in the Alps. However, remember that appetite grows with eating, so you may want to invest immediately in the shoes of the semi-automatic crampons.

buty wysokogorskie scarpa rebel opis

Alpine boots Scarpa Rebel. Leather and synthetic materials. The rubber rim and fasten the semi-automatic crampons

Hiking on skis, which are intended ski-tour boots, ski boots or modified with moving parts to long march. Skituring is a great alternative to walking in winter in the mountains. Because up approach to ski comfortably and down go down. We are much faster and be less tired. I sincerely recommend you try.

Day of winter climbing to be enough leather (with elements of artificial fabrics) shoes, but allow automatic crampons - sole in them should be very stiff. A pair of these shoes as best he weighs up to 2 kg (size 42). But it must be sustainable, because climbing is quite a big challenge for our equipment.

Boots The North Face Verto S6K Glacier GTX made for mountaineering, climbing mixt and ice. Here are their description and test.

meind piz palu lady gtx

Single-layer boots - the automatic crampons - Piz Palu Meindl Lady GTX.

To dry tooling on easy roads, an average of tough (vertical, slightly overhanging), which is generally M7 + will suffice us monolayer shoes with buckles on automatic crampons. Strong competitors will be able to do them even greater number. I witnessed how difficult fell as M10 +, so, in general, it all depends on the store :).

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Dry tooling to the difficult but invented a special fruit boots that resemble some climbing boots with crampons bolted. It is a very specialized shoes that I recommend to the road above the M7 +. As the Polish market is very small, and even the price of new fruit boots hovered around 200 dollars and more in line with the "Pole can do" a lot of people did himself fruit boots or commissioned it to specialists. I encourage you to read this text: fruit boots - test- how to do (in polish).

fruit boots in action. Photo. Marcin Nowogródzki

Mountain climbing for several days now we will need more specialized shoes. It is assumed that it will be used a few days in a row without the possibility of drying and, therefore, should have internal pull-out gaiters. The most modern models have a gaiter, which is an additional protection - no need then also wear stuptuts and are more resistant to water. Ideally, if the couple will weigh in the range of 2-2,2 kilograms (size 42).

Historically, this segment dominated by a plastic shell with pull-out boots. Now, however, these shoes are a mix of plastic material, leather and, if necessary. Plastic. Although there are still an outstanding plastic shell, so if you have limited financial resources, healthy knees, and we want to - very - Loic alpine terrain, you possibly can think of a shell.

The North Face Verto S6K Extreme is dedicated to multi-boot climbing and mountaineering. Getra zippered prevented from falling snow (and some isolates). This shoe has an internal, removable gaiter. Their longer description and outdoor review can be found here

For ambitious mountaineering expeditions (7000 m above sea level, or winter expeditions to the mountains 4000-7000 m above sea level) we need special shoes. They are very well insulated, they have drawn boots and outer over both (to the knee, sometimes even insulated foam).

la sportiva olympus mons

Shoes La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo dedicated at an altitude of approx. 8000 meters. A characteristic feature of the appearance is very high Getra to prevent the ingress of snow and insulation from the cold. Warming is there really a lot. Botek interior can be removed and walk in it in a tent.

*

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Wed, 23 Sep 2015 07:29:00 +0000
Marmot Never Winter sleeping bag - outdoor review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/90-marmot-never-winter-sleeping-bag-outdoor-review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/90-marmot-never-winter-sleeping-bag-outdoor-review Marmot Never Winter sleeping bag - outdoor review

At the beginning of May, I received for testing a Marmot down sleeping bag Never Winter Long. This sleeping bag is Anatomically. Filled with duck down 650 CUI. It is dedicated to a temperature of 3.1 / -2.2 / -18 ° C.

It spent a few nights in a tent in Sokoły, some also were used on the go. However, this is still not enough so I could write about it specifically, so hence a form of "first impressions". The manufacturer's description below, and finally I put my observations.

Product details

spiwor marmot never winter long

The Never Winter is an ideal summer bag for camping and river trips, but it also has enough down insulation to keep you warm when frost is in the air. Updated with our Down Defender treatment offering an extra level of moisture protection for sleeping bags exposed to wet environments.

Feature List

Certified 650 Fill Power Down

Down Defender to Improve Water-Resistance in Wet Conditions

EN Tested

Nautilus 5-Baffle Hood

Down-filled Collar with Easy Access Draw Cord

Heat Bump Draft Tube

Classic Trapezoidal Foot Box

"Feely" Draw Cords

Ground-Level Side Seams

Hood Draw Cord

Locking Zippers

Stash Pocket

Stretch Tricot Baffles

Stuff and Storage Sack Included

Two Hang Loops

Two Way Zipper Sliders

Velcro®-free Face Muff

Zipper Guards

Main Materials

100% Nylon Ripstop AC 1.3 oz/yd, 100% Nylon WR 1.4 oz/yd

Lining Material

100% Nylon Plain Weave WR 1.3 oz/yd

Insulation Material

650 Fill Power Down

Fill Weight

12oz (340g)

Bag Loft

4

Bag Temperature F

30° F

Bag Temperature C

-1° C

EN Rating

Comfort: 37.6°F / 3.1°C | Lower Limit: 28°F / -2.2°C | Extreme: -0.4°F / -18.0°C

Interior Length

85in (216cm)

Bag Dimensions (Shoulder x Hip x Foot)

63in (160cm) x 57in (145cm) x 41in (104cm)

Bag Zipper position

LZ, RZ

Weight

2lbs 0oz (830g)


spiwor marmot never winter long

 

First impressions

After I take sleeping bag out of the box immediately feel the novelty it ... quite literally. To this day, after several nights of use yet still I feel a peculiar smell. We'll see when it disappears. Never Winter is produced in a nice green color to the eye.

The Sleeping bag comes with a large mesh bag storage, and compression sack allowing his pack to smaller dimensions.

spiwor marmot never winter long

Never Winter packaged in a compression sack. Fig. Damian Granowski

Construction

Long sleeping bag version is quite extensive, providing comfortable accommodation and a pretty good body position in a sleeping bag.
Marmot Never Winter has a hood with a drawstring, which is located outside the sleeping bag. Just reach out to the side and you can adjust it. It is quite comfortable, and the string does not bother while sleeping. In my previous sleeping bags cord, he was on the edge of the hood and at night often landed me somewhere on the face. Generally, simple and easy.

Sleeping bag has a zipper YKK, which moves quite smoothly. Is protected against cold strip. Additionally, in the middle we have a small pocket for cell zipped.

spiwor marmot never winter long

I miss him inside strip, around the neck, which would prevent heat loss. In all this is a minor detail, and certainly it would increase thermal comfort on cold nights.

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Temperature range

The manufacturer will provide a range of temperatures 3.1 / -2.2 / -18 ° C. What is interesting on a sleeping bag are added ranges for sex - and so 3.1 is more comfortable for women, and -2.2 is for men. It is known that the last value rather has little meaning. For typical users assume that the sleeping bag will keep comfortable at temperatures 0-3 ° C and higher. It seems to me that the lowest temperature at which it slept is 5 ° C and thermal comfort was fully sufficient (peaceful night's sleep).

spiwor marmot never winter long

The technology uses a sleeping bag Down Defender. Below some information from the manufacturer:

Marmot Down Defender is a way to protect clothing of down. It is a powder coated respondent water, down-filled garments providing protection from moisture. This prevents caking powder to clump and high ratio of heat loss to the ground during contact with water, thereby increasing the ability to maintain warmth and comfort.

Features Down Defender:
It remains dry 10 times longer than down without a protective coating
Retains 150% higher heat-to-weight ratio in the wet conditions than a normal down
It dries 30% faster than down without a protective coating
The technology approved by Bluesign

How does it work?
Coating covers the various clusters of down feathers DWR water-repellent finish at the molecular level. The coating is applied during the cleaning process down. The finish is very durable, providing resistance to humidity for more than 20 washes. In addition, the coating increases the integrity of fluff, durability and longevity of its clusters.

spiwor never winter long marmot

In summary, in my Marmot Never Winter is recommendable sleeping bag for people who want to have Anatomically (spring, summer and autumn) sleeping bag for a reasonable price, which will be checked in various conditions and terrain. Camping, hostels, camping in a tent (or outdoors), traveling situations in which the check good.

If as use something changed this will add appropriate annotations to the text.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Wed, 23 Sep 2015 05:22:48 +0000
TNF Verto S6K Extreme – gear review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/66-tnf-verto-s6k-extreme-gear-review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/66-tnf-verto-s6k-extreme-gear-review TNF Verto S6K Extreme – gear review

For climbing trip to Canada I took the shoes The North Face Verto Extreme S6K. I was expecting to -15 / -25 ° C and hard ice/mixed climbing, where shoes with inner boots will be ideal. Life, however, somewhat verified to use them in the field and an exceptionally warm winter meant that the temperature hovered around -5 / 15 ° C. Fortunately, at the last moment I took TNF Verto S6K Glacier GTX (review here).

Finally I was able to climb in the Verto S6K Extreme for two days in Canada, where the temperature dropped to -15 (Murchison Falls and Slipstream). Therefore, it will not be reviewed Verto S6K extreme, but rather a "first impression" of their use. Therefore, all observations are based on two days of use, so they can still change. On the right you will probably review to wait until next winter.

Description

 



Best-in-class, fully compatible with crampons, boots to acquire the highest mountain peaks. Have drawn pads, gaiters, waterproof membrane HydroSeal®, isolation of aero-gel for added thermal protection and CRADLE ™ technology. Smartlite® mud guards are lighter and more protected than rubber. They have the best-in-class EVA insert Northotic ™ Pro + gel in the heel.

joomplu:29

Average weight: 1010 g (½ pairs) / 2020 g (pair) - Men 9

Upper properties:

    ballistic nylon uppers

    waterproof membrane HydroSeal®

    PU protectors Smartlite® lowering mud weight of the shoe and to provide better protection than traditional rubber pads

    PrimaLoft® insulation 200g

    Isolation of aero-gel at the height of the fingers, around and under the foot for added thermal protection

    best-in-class EVA footbed Northotic ™ Pro + with gel heel, shock-absorbing Ortholite ™ panels at the height of the forefoot and a stabilizing TPU Cradle ™ technology

    TPU heel stabilizer CRADLE ™ technology with spoiler for cancers snow

Properties soles:

    compatible with crampons

    EVA midsole with micropores

    Vibram outsole Mulaz

    Carbon platform for extra strength

Price: 650 $ (The North Face shop)

First impressions

Of course, the first thing you do with shoes that weigh:-). The manufacturer says the size 9 (EU 42) weight 1010 grams (one shoe). My shoe size 10.5 (44) weighs 1154 grams (323 grams for inner boot), which is a good result for the inner boots. Other Shoes La Sportiva Spantik 1261 play, La Sportiva Baruntse 1267 grams, Scarpa Phantom 6000 1000 grams. Weight probably given for the number 42.

I suggest buying the shoe about half a centimeter buy a bigger size than we have foot. However, this may change, if the shoe a little break.

The North Face company began producing shoes in winter alpine 2011/12. She began by Verto S4K GTX model. Then came Verto S6K GTX dedicated to higher altitudes (about 6,000 meters). Then Verto S6K Extreme (more armored model of internal booties). The series closes Verto S8K dedicated to eight-thousanders.

S6K Verto is the third model in the order, designed for multi-day winter climbing to the tops of the surrounding 6000 meters. From its predecessor Verto Glacier GTX S6K it varies a lot: inner boots internal Geiter material (zipped), different design and colors. Common elements is known to be the sole, rubber rim, the shape of the hoof, and probably several design solutions invisible from the outside.

joomplu:33

But overall it is warmer than a single layer Verto S6K. This provides a two-layer construction of the shoe uppers, a thicker sole, and 200 grams PrimaLoft (in Verto S6K was Thinsulate heat insulation). At -15 did not feel cold feet.

Typical today, covering to protect against moisture is zip lining. Upper is made of ballistic nylon (the strongest nylon fabric on the market). At the top of the upper is stitched rubber rim that protects from falling snow. The whole coated PU (polyurethane) to increase water resistance. Large waterproof YKK went quite hard at the beginning, so I decided to treat it with silicone grease, which greatly helped in his fasten;).

joomplu:31

Vibram sole has a fairly deep tread well adapted for walking on snow. In case we had to climb in them, we have called on the tip of the shoe. "Climbing Zone". A similar outsole is in Verto S6K GTX, so it looks like it will be good to keep the snow and rock.

The depreciation is "EVA Northotic ™ Pro + with gel heel, shock-absorbing Ortholite ™ panels at the height of the forefoot and a stabilizing TPU Cradle ™ technology." Without going into the technical details, refer to the manufacturer's website.

Of course, we can pin automatic crampons. Personally, I use BD Cyborg crampons that sit on them stable.

joomplu:28

Shoes Verto Extreme S6K in hand with crampons BD Cyborg. Photo. Damian Granowski

Mounted over a fairly wide sole with rubber rim to prevent wet and mechanical damage. Front of the shoe is lined with black leatherette.

joomplu:36

Front of the boot. Photo. Damian Granowski

Lace-up boots are insulated with 200 grams PrimaLoft + AEROTHERM technology is used. They have laces with locking clip that easily lock / unlock with gloves. Inner boot has a pad under the foot.

joomplu:37

In general, the order of lacing in the Verto S6K Extreme, is as follows. Inner boot first, then the ordinary in the shoe lacing and Velcro fastening ankle stabilizer.

joomplu:40

Details of inner boots

The shoe has a wide belt loops, we can catch gloves to hold the shoe when inserting Botka (founded on foot). Naturally there will be a convenient carabiner to attach shoes, to the position.

joomplu:35

Loop at the back of the shoe. Photo. Damian Granowski

Inner boot is quite soft, so if you put your foot booties established, it often does not fit well. Ideally put inner boot so earlier, and then the foot.

Overall Impressions

For two days in ice climbing shoes in terms of thermals were doing great. At minus 15 ° C and thin socks did not feel cold. It's in them as well (of course, not like the Verto Glacier S6K), and climbing in the ice went well enough. As for my taste might be a bit stiffer (higher bond laces) so would be less tired in the Alpine ice.

joomplu:38


In conclusion, TNF Verto S6K Extreme promises to be a successful alpine boot. It should be appreciated by all those who are planning multi day of climbing or climbing in winter frosts stout. At the end of the coming winter will get probably have a full review, so please be patient.

More photos in the gallery

Oryginal text (in polish)

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Thu, 16 Apr 2015 00:00:00 +0000
How to Choose a climbing Harness? https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/65-climbing-harness-how-to-choose https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/65-climbing-harness-how-to-choose How to Choose a climbing Harness?

Climbing harnesses are essential for climbing. They're usually designed with minimal padding, the assumption being that you'll hang in your harness little if at all, so comfort can take a back seat to weight. Mountaineers expect to travel in snowy or wet conditions, to take bathroom breaks while still in the harness and to wear the harness over a variety of layers, including taking it on and off over boots and crampons. As a result, mountaineering harnesses are typically made of non-absorbent material, have detachable leg loops to facilitate bathroom breaks, and adjust sufficiently to accommodate a variety of layers.

Consider Your Climbing Style

What kind(s) of climbing do you plan on doing most often? This will help you decide what features are the most important.

All-round - These are also known as all-around, crag or sport harnesses. Ideal for beginners, they are designed to function well in a number of climbing applications such as top-roping, sport and gym climbing. Most have padded leg loops and waistbelts for maximum comfort when working a route or taking a fall. Detachable leg loops let you answer calls of nature without untying from the rope. Most models also feature convenient gear racking loops for easy access to hardware or chalk bag without the need for a shoulder sling. These harnesses typically feature a dedicated front loop so you can easily attach a belay/rappel device.

 

Harness Jasper CR 4 Camp

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Alpine - Designed for long mountain trips, these harnesses typically feature minimal padding and features in order to save weight and bulk. Non-absorbent materials are used to withstand the rough weather often encountered in glacier and alpine climbing. Highly adjustable waistbelt and leg loops allow for clothing changes between pre-dawn chill and afternoon sunshine. Leg loops are usually detachable so you can take toilet breaks while staying tied into the rope at the waist.

Black Diamond Xenos harness. Dedicated to winter climbing

Big Wall - These harnesses are used by climbers doing multi-pitch, multi-day climbs such as those in Yosemite Valley. They feature lots of padding on the waistbelt and leg loops to relieve pressure during hanging belays or aid climbing. Multiple gear loops allow handy on-harness and take some of the weight off your shoulder gear sling. They usually feature a full-strength haul loop in back for towing a rope or heavy gear bag.

Lot of climbing gear on loops. Photo: Damian Granowski

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How to check if harness is good for you?

1. Try on the harness over the bulkiest clothing layers you might wear while mountaineering. This should include your shell jacket and snow pants. Make sure that the waist belt sits above the crest of your hip bones and can cinch down tightly enough that you can slide your hand between the harness and your waist but don't have room to turn your hand around.
2. Perform the same fit test for the leg loops: When they are cinched down you should be able to slip your hand between the loop and your thigh, but you shouldn't have room to turn your hand around.
3. Put on your mountaineering boots and crampons, if you have them, and try taking the harness off and putting it back on over the extra footwear. Both leg loops and waist belt should adjust sufficiently to allow this without a struggle.
4.  Take the harness off, strip down to the lightest layers you think you might wear while mountaineering, put the harness on again, and perform both fit tests---waist belt and leg loops---again. If the harness you're trying on cannot be adjusted to fit you both in bulky layers and stripped-down layers, it's not suitable for mountaineering.
5. Inspect the harness to make sure that the leg loops are detachable (there will be a small clip joining each leg loop to the waist belt, via a piece of elastic webbing) and that the material is non-absorbent; these are important elements in a mountaineering harness.

Uprząż Camp Energy dedykowana do wspinaczki sportowej

Camp Energy harness, dedicated for sport climbing

Even though comfort is a secondary consideration for mountaineering harnesses, you should still tie in to the harness and perform a "hang test" if the shop's facilities allow it. This involves suspending your full weight from a climbing rope, while wearing the harness, to make sure that it fits comfortably enough to permit you to sit for at least short periods of time. If the harness bites into your skin anywhere or pinches you uncomfortably you won't be able to bear sitting in it for any length of time; try to find a different harness that is not so uncomfortable.

Cost of climbing harnesses

Differences between a $45 harness and an $75 harness may be difficult to see. You do not need to pay many to get a safe harness. However, harnesses are tough and should last a while, so durability is often the difference between expensive and moderately-priced harnesses. Consider that you may be climbing in this thing for a few years before jumping at that small price tag.

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Wed, 16 Apr 2014 00:00:00 +0000
The North Face Verto Glacier GTX S6K - hard outdoor review https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/59-shoes-tnf-verto-glacier-s6k-gtx https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/59-shoes-tnf-verto-glacier-s6k-gtx The North Face Verto Glacier GTX S6K - hard outdoor review

In winter season 2013/14 I had the opportunity to test The North Face Verto Glacier GTX S6K. Verto S6K model was released in the winter season 2012/2013 and you can tell that it is "older brother" Verto S4K GTX model, dedicated to a height of 6000 meters above sea level row (S4K was at about 4000 meters). TNF company produces shoes in this category just only a few years so I was curious to see how Verto S6K prove themselves.

Under this link you will find a description of the manufacturer.

 

Ultimately, I was going to wear shoes in the spring in the Alps. Life and the weather, however, verified the plans. Finally ended up at several climbing days in Tatras. Many of this climbs had an alpine character - large (as in terms of the Tatra) wall, under which you have to approach a few hours:-). In any case, I can say that it was a real test, not a description of the "first impressions/outdoor review".

Immediately throws himself into the eyes of an aesthetic and interesting look, referring to the model S4K. Definitely shoes blend well with the other elements of clothing.

The positive aspect is the weight of shoes, oscillating around 1800 grams for the pair (size 42). My weighed 950 grams one (size 44). Interestingly between the left and right shoe was ~ 20 grams difference.

The shoes are light, yet rigid sole is sufficient for automatic crampons. Speaking of sole, it is made of Wibram and has a deep tread. Both on dry and wet rock is well:-). A definite plus is the "climbing zone" on the back of the front of the shoe. So we have more confidence when climbing in rocky terrain, without crampons.

 

Vibram sole. Photo. dg

Shoes, of course, allow plugging automatic crampons. I have used them automatic BD Cyborg crampons. Front of the shoe is slightly raised, making the crampons frotn point were slightly raised. However, this did not affect in any way the comfort of climbing in the ice and mixt.

 

Verto S6K with BD Cyborg crampons. Photo. dg

 

Sam toe is quite high, so knocking degrees (without crampons) is quite comfortable. Photo. dg

Over sole shoes are surrounded by a plastic rim that prevents mechanical damage. Front of the shoe itself is reinforced synthetic leather.

The interior lining of the shoe is comfortable, with a Gore-Tex material, providing waterproofing and breathability.

Polyurethane collar. Photo. dg

At the top of the shoe's is collar to protect from snow. It is worth noting that the solution (as well as others), it will be a weak check in deep, loose snow on the approaches and descents. However, gaiters are sometimes better:-).

 

Lacing system. Photo. dg

Lacing system. Phot. dg

Lacing system allows tight lacing shoes feet.

Below Verto shoe manufacturing process. Just film a model S4K, but the production process S6K should not vary much.

Comfort

Absolute priority in terms of shoes - any kind. I'm the owner of a relatively narrow feet and shoes which I used earlier, were the products Scarpa and La Sportiva. I was afraid that S6K because of American origin, will be dedicated for wider feet.

My doubts dispelled the first fitting in the store. Shoes in my size were well matched and did not have the elements that cause discomfort. Of course, the first trip was to prove crucial. Fortunately, the shoes do not cause any irritation and the walking was comfortable. After hundreds of kilometers have not changed my opinion;). It is worth noting that these were kilometers with a backpack full of gear, which is typically ~ 5-10 kg.

 

The heel of the system Cradle . After a year of use, I have not noticed any change in the rate of depreciation of the heel and on the approaches. Photo. dg

During the XI Memorial Bartek Olszanski, I found myself on skis go over to the Slaski Dom in Wielicka Valley. I decided to put into practice (somewhat forgotten) patent shoes attaches to ski bindings Silveretta 404. After two hours, but the approaches were sore heel. It is no wonder, however, the movement of the foot in ski-tour is completely different and heel works in a way that the designers did not anticipate. Last but not least – ride on skis after it was interesting:-).

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Climbing

This is what Tiggers like best. Ice, Tatra pot, mountaineering is definitely elements Verto S6K.

In ice they are really well. Are relatively soft, so we can freely operate feet, on the other hand lacing system holds the foot firmly.

 

 

The author Bratyslawski Lod. Photo. Bartłomiej Szeliga

They are not dedicated to hard drytooling;), although I do in them M8.

But in the Tatras rock and frozen grass have quite an impressive mileage. As in ice.

Saying, "How is winter, it must be cold," does not refer to climbing in the Verto S6K. Little they have risen and climbed under different conditions.

Disadvantages

After a few excursions into the Tatra Mountains noticed that the silver coating on the front of the shoe has a tendency to scratch when crampons teeth hit them. This does not affect the strength of the shoe, only aesthetic issues. Manufacturer did not notice the shortcomings in the testing phase?

 

Here I must add that appeared on the market last winter, a new model of TNF Verto Extreme S6K, which is an improved model Verto S6K. Cover the shoe is more armored, but additionally has inner boot. In general, these are the shoes already for longer climbing in difficult conditions. One shoe weighs ~ 1010 grams, which is not bad:-)

Shoes TNF Extreme S6K. Fig. thealpinestart.com

A Summary

Verto S6K a great debut in the segment of TNF's shoes high-altitude mountaineering. Very comfortable during long marches and climbing. Warm to the ranks. Climbers who preffers style light & fast should be happy with this choice.

I feel like I still have a lot of miles in them will go:-).

Finally, a video describing the Verto S6K, found on the network:

 {youtube}Zhq-i_ARKCc{/youtube}

Oryginal text was in polish (on drytooling.com.pl).

More photos on gallery (drytooling.com.pl).

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Sat, 11 Apr 2015 00:00:00 +0000
adidas Terrex Scope GTX review/test https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/36-test-adidas-terrex-scope-shoes https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/36-test-adidas-terrex-scope-shoes adidas Terrex Scope GTX review/test

In spring 2014 I received approach shoes adidas Terrex Scope GTX to review (oryginal text in Polish). Scope has a new Stealth rubber outsole, which is nice on wet and rocky surfaces. But how good is Scope in practice? I invite you to read the test/review.

 

Company adidas is relatively new on outdoor industry block, but they are masters in craft of shoe making. They are owner of Five Ten (climbing shoe company). From 5.10 they take Stealth sticky rubber. The result? Fit and comfort adidas running shoes and grip performace on Stealth rubber. Weight of pair of shoes is 405 gram (39 Eur).

In 2013 I had tested adidas Terrex Solo (test only in polish). Now I must say, that Scope are more massive shoes, which are pretended to approach on mountains or to hiking. They are more confortable on long walks, than adidas Terrex Solo which were a light, stiff technical approach shoe. But also you can do easy climbs with them.

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The Terrex Scope GTX has Adiprene cushioning in the heel. Comfortable for walking/running, but stiff enough to approach on big boulders. Foamy curved tonque stays on place. Laces tighten down to the toes for a snug fit. Scope has rubber rand (toe and narrow toe). On the heel you have strap, then you can easy clim them to a harness on climbing.


Buty adidas Terrex Scope-2

Gore-Tex liner should keep your feet dry too.

Approach / Descent

First I walk on them on city. But they wipe my heel. Not so hard, that I place thicker sock, and was better. After some weeks of use problem of wipe disappear.

They are excellent on approach. Rigid sole was great in hard terrain. Rigid toe is comfortable to do step in snow.

I use them in Tatra Mountains, on Jura and in Dolomites. On approach and descent. On rock, wet grass, messy terrain of forest. Also on approach on climbing terrain (I-II UIAA).

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After few months rubber on sole in some places are erased, but not so hard. After some weekend trip, laces were abrade in one place.

Climbing

The real test for Terrex Scope was in Tatra. Climbing on the ridge is big challenge for shoes. Scope meet the expectations. Sole on granite is famously Even on wet rock they were good. I climb VI+ UIAA on them (hand crack). In general they are good shoes for easy climbing (to IV-V Grade UIAA).

In Tatra Mountains. Photo - Andrzej Marcisz

General

adidas Terrex Scope are very nice shoes for approach and descent.  They promise to work on rock, messy terrain and others. They are comfortable on long walks with solid performace and good in climbing.

Damian Granowski

Info about Shoe:

 

  • A versatile, lightweight approach shoe.
  • Durable textile and synthetic upper materials.
  • GORE-TEX® technology ensures breathable, waterproof protection from the outside elements.
  • Molded EVA tongue for next-to-skin comfort.
  • Protective toe rand.
  • Heel pull for an easier on and off.
  • Soft fabric lining for a great in-shoe feel.
  • Molded foam sockliner supplies light underfoot comfort.
  • adiPRENE® insert absorbs shock for enhanced comfort.
  • Approach-specific outsole features Stealth® rubber to deliver optimal grip and friction.
  • Imported.
  • Measurements:
    • Weight: 1 lb 3 oz
  • Product measurements were taken using size 11.5, width D - Medium. Please note that measurements may vary by size.

www.facebook.com/adidasoutdoor

More pictures (gallery)

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Thu, 09 Oct 2014 00:00:00 +0000
TNF Thermoball Hoodie Review/test https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/23-test-thermoball-hoodie-the-north-face https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/23-test-thermoball-hoodie-the-north-face TNF Thermoball Hoodie Review/test

In early October 2013 I received The North Face Thermoball Hoodie – light, synthetic, filled with primaloft - jacket. The key word is Thermoball . It is the insulation of primaloft, not in textile, but in small balls. With this simple solution, the insulation has the warmth equivalent of 600-fill down.

More about the jacket you can read here. I also recommend the article: Down vs Primaloft (polish version). Meanwhile, I invite you to read the test/review.

On Galeria Gankowa. Photo Mikołaj Pudo

The first information about the new the insulation of TNF aroused my curiosity. Will it be really as it says TNF. Warm, packable, etc. ?

First impressions positive. Designers jacket put on minimalism. The jacket has not to many accessories. It weighs ~400 grams (14.11 oz).

We have two large pockets on the hands, which can pack a jacket. Although best suited for the left pocket, in which the lock has a dual slider.

Packed jacket is a cuboid of dimensions 25x10x8 cm ~ which can be attain to the harness, etc.

Lower welt can be reduced in order to better adhere to the body. Thanks to a clever patent we can do with his hands in his pocket :-)

Main - plastic - lock is from the bottom of the strip against cold . Although at the end ( the face) , could be finished with a finer material, flap.

All zippers are YKK company.

Hood fits with helmet -  high collar makes the neck is well protected. But Hood doesn't have welt. In windy conditions, hood was blown from my head.

Sleeves are equipped with elastic cuffs to prevent heat loss

Thermoball Hoodie is quite spacious. We can assume for a second - lighter - a jacket , and still be a bit of space. I am however a typical climber and I would prefer that the waist was less space ( lighter product).

City

Thermoball Hoodie is available in four colors (gray , black, blue, red). I have a red. In the mountains is a big plus (potential rescue).Deep pockets warm and nice design makes it often like to move around the city.

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Trekking / Skit-tour

Usually I walk with only one layer (softshell, etc). But sometimes is pretty cold/windy, then I use Thermoball. Material in jacket is well isolated from the wind, but as I previously mentioned, the hood does not have a welt, then sometimes wind blow hood from head. Hopefully the designers will add pullers in the next season.

On the NW peak of Świnica after passing the Pillar Swinica. Photo. Maciej Chmielecki

Climbing

Generally I use jacket in temperatures to -5 - max -10 degrees Celsius. Usually, I used it as a belay jacket. Sometimes as an additional inner layer against cold, while climbing.

Author in the jacket TNF Thermoball Hoodie on Direttissima MSW . Photo. Jacek Kierzkowski

In conclusion it is not sure jacket, which is to protect us - alone - against a big frost (below -10 °C
). Rather, the product of the category Light & Fast, also with good looking in the city . Thermoball Hoodie is a lightweight, packable , warm - ideal for mountain trips where weight is important.

Damian Granowski

Here you have test in Polish version

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Fri, 31 Jan 2014 00:00:00 +0000
Fuel - New Ice Toll from BD https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/22-fuel-new-ice-toll-black-diamond https://winterclimb.com/outdoor-gear-equipment/item/22-fuel-new-ice-toll-black-diamond Fuel - New Ice Toll from BD

On autumn 2014 in shops will be new Ice Toll from Black Diamond. Fuel will be dedicated for hard drytooling and mixt climbing. It will be like Fusion, but without hammer, and lighter.

 

Ines Papert climbing with Fuel on Bozeman Ice Festival. Photo. Ben Herndon

weight about 651 gram (1lb i 7 oz). Price ~ 250$.

Source: thegearcaster.com

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rob.granowski@gmail.com (Damian Granowski) Gear Mon, 27 Jan 2014 17:33:54 +0000