Michael Wohlleben is professional alpinist. His hardest ascents are: Eiger Northface Teamspeed Ascent (5h10min), First Winter nonstop Trilogy of the Tre Cime Northfaces (15h42min), First Ascent Pray for Power M14, First free ascents of Antro.po.cene (Taghia 500m, 8a), Gehts noch Doc (Blankenstein 250m, 8a), Hystrix (Sicilia 220m, 8a), Ramadan 8b onsight and 3x8c redpoint.

Date of birth and how long you climb?

05.10.1990. 16 years of climbing

Best OS in dry-tooling and ice?

Onsight I don't remember. Flash Gotham City M12+ in Eptingen. Ice, I think it's not really gradable I hear a lot about WI7... which would have been WI6 10 years ago. Maybe The real Big Drip was quite difficult to onsight.

Michi Wohlleben
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Best RP on dry-tooling and ice?

Pray for Power D14. I never climbed a ice pitch twice because I sit in the rope...

Which Ice tools and crampons?

Nomics/Quark. Dart, Dartwin.


Adidas, Primaloft, Scarpa, Petzl, Julbo Eyewear, Würth, Knott, Suunto

The best place on competitions and climbing meetings?

Never climbed competitions.

How you start climbing with Ice-tools? First you climbed in summer or winter?

I started on an easy icefall. But I first climbed some years in rock and later with 12 years my friend took me to the icefall.

Michi Wohlleben
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Some people climb in winter, because it is for them some alternative from climbing indoors, others just like it. What's your favorite kind of climbing? What keeps you at it?

I'm noticing more and more that I like the discipline I do at a specific time on which I concentrate, motivates me a lot. Like last year I was 6 weeks only sportclimbing with an 8b osnight in the end. And I was totally psyched on it. Coming from a crazy winter with alpinism like the first Three Cime north faces winter enchainement, I couldn't first imagine going sport climbing but then I loved it. So I can't say what is my favourite. But generelly I'm more a winter person, like it cold a little bit suffering.

What is most important to you in winter climbing? The desire for adventure, difficulties, winter climate, or perhaps fame and women ;-)?

It suites me good, I like to suffer, I like the adventure. And I think in winter tactics are even more important then in summer and I'm a tactic player.

Of course, we can not escape from a series of questions like "Most", What is your favorite dry-tooling area? What is it that you want to go back?

Although there are not the hardest routes, Ueschinen I really like a lot it has tons of ice on the routes.

Michi Wohlleben
In Dolomites (Tre Cime Trilogy). Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Apart from the money, which peak you would most go climb? What is it in itself?


The most beautiful route which you do? What contributed to the fact that deserves to be called?

Many...I like my first ascent Pray for Power D14 or Optimist 1300m, M6 no bolts two days alpine style at Schneefernerkopf.

Michi Wohlleben
On Ironman M14. Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Climbing equipment is evolving all the time, skills of climbers also grow. How do you think, where will go mixt climbing?

I don't know... definetly drytooling developed a little bit boring, I honestly have to say, that I enjoy it more climbing a vertical M7 then climbing a route like Ironman ones you have the power on the tools it doesn't matter if you do 20 or 100 moves... so I don't know where it goes. Maybe free onsight climbing routes like Harlin Direttissima or Manitua on Grandes Jorasses... we will see.

Favorite climbing gear, which would you recommend to anyone?

In winter I love my Primaloft Jacket it's still warm even if it's wet. Then I really like the new 3layer material from Adidas in the Terrex line. I love my Scirocco although it's sooo orange :-), for sure my Rebell Ultras from Scarpa and I always have one of my Julbo glasses with me.

Apparently, outside climbing, there are other hobbies... What do you like doing in your free time, when not climbing? (answer "I read climbing websites" is not correct )

Hm... My family and paragliding

Michi Wohlleben
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

The most difficult mountain route, which you ascent? What factors made ​​up for the difficulties? You encourage, or reborn to repeat it?

The trilogy of the three north faces of the Three Cimes in winter is a really big adventure.

What do you think is the best advice for beginners (and not only) winter climbers?

Take a lot of time. And take it easy. Never think in months for improving thinking in years is better. More fun less pressure.

Winter is already coming to an end. You will throw your gear into the closet and get back to the rocks? Or you Can not give up and you'll be somewhere else to look for the rocking?

This year I won't rock climb so much. More alpinism...

Michi Wohlleben
Photo: arch. Michi Wohlleben

Thanks for Interview :-)

Michi website

Gallery of photos

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